Read Directions, Can't Go Wrong! Looks fantastic!
I did my research pretty well and that floor should never come up ever. I even OVER did it...and used a pressure washer every time when they suggested that you could rinse with just the hose. Pressure washed, then did the muriatic acid TWICE (2 separate days) to ensure all pores would be exposed, let it dry for a day, did the crack seal, let it dry for a day, then the epoxy, let it dry 24 hours, then the clear with the anti skid applied very liberally and letting it cure for 7 days instead of
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the recommended 4 (before putting a car on it). I was unsure about adding the anti skid but now that I see and feel it, the grainy texture feels fantastic and is no worse than a course concrete. It'll keep you from breaking your neck after you park and it's been raining and the ground is wet.
From what I gathered in my research, the water based rustoleum epoxy shield that home depot stocks on the shelves has a tendency to show signs of hot tire pick up where you park within a few years. Even the prep for that over the counter kit is only a citrus powder etc, rather than the muriatic acid. It dries to 3 mil thick...the one I got, which I bought from home depot online, is the "professional" line and it's solvent based which dries to 5 to 6 mil. That, in addition to the solvent based clear probably gives you about 10 or more mil thickness before you'd even hit concrete from parking, dropping tools or even running a jack over it constantly. The professional kit is labeled as intended for industrial floor use where you're in the middle of a machine shop with sparks and every fluid possible going on it without affecting integrity. All in all, if you ever do it, count on doing the clear. The floor just didn't feel or look finished without it, even the texture of the flakes that were kinda sticking up, you could feel them and where I had patched looked glossy where the bare areas didn't.
I probably could have spread it super thin and gotten away with it only costing $100 for epoxy and $100 for epoxy clear. Supporting tools like the mixing bit and epoxy roller etc were probably an extra $50. BUT, I would rather have had too much than not enough, I wanted a nice thick coat.
One gripe is the sprinkle dispersing, but that's more about me than the kit. I would do a good job, then roll over the edge of my previous square to keep a "wet edge" and I would roll over the sprinkles. So I'd have to add more to hide the line but it was hard to do from 4 feet away so there are some heavy areas and some areas where you can see the squares I painted on the floor, kinda. I'm just being picky and I'm sure it'll be less noticeable once there are cars and workbench in the garage. I wonder if using one of those seed/fertilizer hand dispensers would be good...otherwise, if possible, throw them UP in the air and don't onto the edge of your previous 4' square where you've already laid down sprinkles.
Also, I wish that Rustoleum would sell smaller kits to get the job done. I have a 550 square foot garage and needed approximately 3 gallons of the 4 gallon epoxy kit and approximately 1.5 gallons of the 2 gallons of clear epoxyshield kit (applied liberally). At nearly $100 per gallon of either the base color or the clear, it kinda hurts to let $100 harden in a 5 gallon container because you didn't need it.
All in all, for $400 and what I consider a pretty professional high end finish, I'm happy.
Absolutely the Best Epoxy Garage Floor Coating Available
I installed this product ( Internet No. 203853275) on my garage floor in Utah in 2006 and in Hawaii in 2008 and several other friends garages - and it has held up very well. Also I would purchase a case of additional Decorative Chips (1 lb Brown Blend, Internet No. 2043611771 and apply the decorative chips much closer together than would be possible if you use only the chips supplied with the kit. This makes the final product look like a marble surface. Before coating the cement floor, clean and
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acid wash the cement floor and rinse with water several times. If you caulk the spaces between the cement slabs with a fast drying DAP type paintable caulking material, and also caulk the edge of the garage floor all around the garage floor (using a lot of caulk around the edges so it does not crack) this really makes the final coated garage floor look much nicer and it seals the floor so no insects can come up from the ground below. Also after the caulking is finished and has dried. I use a paint roller to coat a foot or so up the garage walls, with the Professional Epoxy Coating and this protects the sheet rock so you can wash the garage out with a hose and not damage the sheet rock. Use a disposable paint brush to paint the floor next to the wall and then coat the floor as recommended by Rust Oleum. This caulking and painting up the garage wall really makes the final job look better in my opinion and be more functional.
Note: I would not install any garage floor epoxy coating that allows water wash up of brushes as it is a inferior coating. I would only install a 2 part- solvent base epoxy coating such as the Professional Floor Coating Kit. I much prefer the tan color, but have installed the battleship grey in my garage before I installed the Tan color elsewhere.
I also recommend that in addition to coating your cement garage floor with this Professional Floor Coating product, that you then apply two coats of Rust Oleum clear- high gloss 2-part Premium Floor Coating (Internet No. 203282323) solvent based, over the top as a final coating, this really makes the floor shine, and gives it additional strength and durability over the decorative chips. You can add a fine sand additive to the final top clear- coat if you wish to add some skid resistance and make it less likely that a wet floor would present a slipping-falling hazard.
I installed this coating on a friend's garage floor in Maui, Hawaii and the neighbors asked if it was a marble tile floor. They were amazed at how well it looked and 3 years later it looks just like new.