When Checking the Miter for Accuracy
Clamp wide or thick boards to the saw table so they don't move during the cut, damaging the board and possibly the operator.
Making Accurate Cuts
Laser indicators on some saws help you see where the cut will be. If you don't have a laser, start the cut on the waste side of the line. Turn on the saw and ease the running blade into the board and make a cut. If the cut misses the layout line, raise the blade, move the board, and try again.
Adjusting the Extension Table
If your saw has an extension table, like the one to the left of this saw, make sure the fence is flush with the fence on the rest of the saw. If it isn't, loosen the bolts that hold it in place, and slide it into position. To be on the safe side, you can even set it so there's a slight gap between the extension table fence and the straightedge - the main fence provides plenty of support for making an accurate cut.
Make a test cut.
No square is as accurate as an actual cut. Cut the widest board the saw can handle. Put the pieces on the saw table. Flip one over and look for a gap in the seam. (Any gap will be twice the error in the saw.) If you see a gap, make the adjustments that follow to correct the problem.
Loosen the fence.
Unplug the saw and loosen the bolts that hold the fence in place. On this saw you first remove the fence extension by loosening a knob and a setscrew before loosening the four bolts that hold the fence in place.
Move one end of the fence and put a square against it, so that the square touches the blade without flexing it. If necessary, turn the blade by hand so that no teeth touch the square. If there's a gap, move the square away from the blade, adjust the fence, and check again with the square. When the gap disappears, tighten the fence bolts, make a sample cut, and repeat the process as necessary. Adjust the pointer so it reads zero, using the eraser end of a pencil if the pointer is hard to reach.
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