Rated 4.9 out of 5 by 7
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by abom Dressed up my patio wall
Needed something to cap my brick wall that would dress it up. These worked really well.
August 20, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by WeekendWoodworker tips for pro results
I've built some large landscape wall projects with the Natural Impressions blocks on our property to create interesting plant beds and to stop soil erosion. I use a diamond circular blade on a Dewalt chop saw with water to cool the blade while mitering the blocks and capstones. It cuts the blocks like butter and yields pro results. I also use the Titebond Landscape block adhesive (paint dept) to glue the capstones and curved wall together. My neighbors and my wife are quite pleased with the projects, now with lots of flowering plants.
July 11, 2013
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Justin Good but pricey
I used these blocks to cap a 60 ft long 3.5 foot high retaining wall I built this summer. They cut nicely with a diamond concrete blade and a circular saw (dry). Pricey but what choice do you have. The color matches the tan charcoal natural impressions trapezoid wall blocks nicely (what I used for my wall). They are sturdy at 9 lbs. nice design on front. IGNORE THE PICTURE AND DESCRIPTION it's wrong. They are not tan they are a tannish grey color. THEY DONT WEIGH 15 lbs they weigh 9. They don't have a setback lip either ( why would they its a cap stone?). Don't know why the description is so messed up. I used PL500 to bond mine and they are solid and will stay that way for many years.
September 15, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by DonG Great Look
I used these caps to hide the gaps between stones. I used diamond tip blade in my circular saw to cut the angles. I used loctite PL500 to glue caps to stones. Make sure they are level first. Not bad for a 72 year old if I do say so.
October 19, 2014
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by help101 Take Note
All-in-all the product is easy for the most part to assemble depending on how you want your layout, radius or square. Cap blocks are not easy to cut to ensure proper fit and can easliy break when using the prescribed method of hammer and chisel. Use a masonry saw for the best cuts. Also when purchasing look for cracks in the material at the corners as this is a weak point and just hauling can cause them to break off. Once installed looks good.
August 31, 2010
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by arrowheadshane It's a rock
It lays there. Just like it is supposed to lay there. Like a rock.
April 2, 2010
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Ephblum Great looking cap stone
I like the combination of colors on these caps. I had only used them before for the top of a circular fire-pit but more recently have started using them with the wall blocks to make short walls (roughly 2 wall blocks plus cap) to update bed borders that were old wood railroad ties that had rotted/sunk. They are great to work with and fairly consistent in terms of color so I can buy them 30 at a time and not worry about the next bed looking all that different (vs the wall blocks which I have had different results with concerning color consistency). Straight runs are easy. I purchased a Husqvarna K1260 gas wet chop saw for these types of projects after browsing around to learn what the pro landscape stone guys use (yes I am a serious DIYer and much prefer to buy a tool than rent it) which is great vs trying to score and break these (you will never get clean 45deg or other cuts to line up seamlessly with that method and will most likely have lots of waste from breaking stones). This saw is extra heavy duty (6" depth of cut with 16" blade) but smaller saws work just as well for these thin stones. Wet saws are a must to control all the dust you would otherwise generate. Curves are a little more effort but the easiest way to do it for most curves is to alternate straight ones and then put the stone in the middle lined up on top and then trace the edge underneath on both sides to get your cut lines-you have to cut both sides or your sides won't line up depth-wise. Really tight curves you may have to cut most or all of the stones (I haven't had any that tight except for the fire pit). I use PL Premium on the bottoms/backs of just about all the joints and between layers. You do have to be careful with this though because it dries stronger than concrete overnight-be sure everything is level and ready to go because you will need a sledgehammer to remove it once cured. I then use PL S10 concrete crack seal on the top seams to get a custom masonry look by masking each side of the seam and caulking over the middle (The PL premium dries brown so you can't use that/have to be sure it is hidden although it is paintable). I have had great results with these methods, and have really been surprised by how great a finished section looks.
July 21, 2013