Rated 4.0 out of 5 by 7
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by kenfets hot water heating element
gasket that came with heating elemet was faulty, therefore the whole piece was usless
March 2, 2015
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by ibip Did not fit
The package said it fit the Rheems water heater. the person in the department looked at the package and confirmed it "should " fit. FYI - it does not fit the Rheems Marathon Heater. I returned the item and to my dismay, Home Depot does not sell a replacement heater element for the Marathon water heater, although they sell the heater.
September 16, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Izic Does what it says it will do
Be careful water will come out when replacing. Easy install works well after 2 months.
September 2, 2014
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Scooby This product seems to be good qualty
I purchased this product after having replaced my other heater elements on two other occasions within six months. This product has a five year warranty and seems to be made better than the previous elements I have purchased. I hope it lasts more than six months.
March 4, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by JohnTN47 I like the design!
This element design uses a longer element by having it doubled back on itself, thus there should be more surface area to heat water. It also better utilizes the space in the water heater.
April 1, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by CCAZ The extra coating on the element is best in hard water areas.
This product is easy to install and works great. Best for customers with tenants.
January 25, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Allgood Easy to install lower hot water heater element
I experienced a problem of no hot water form my domestic electric hot water heater. The majority of the time the lower element is defective. If you run out of hot water, normally the upper element is defective.
When replacing your lower element, buy the best one you can since this element is subject to the sediment that builds up on the bottom of the tank and can fully encase the element causing it to over heat and fail.
First turn the circuit breaker off to the hot water heater at the main electrical panel. Use a voltage tester to check power at water heater before starting. Turn cold water off to tank, then hook up hose to the drain at bottom of heater and open valve to drain to nearby sump pump.
I have seen these drain valves fully blocked with sediment, not allowing water heater to drain. if so, you will need to use compressed air and insert it in the outlet of hose to blow back the sediment. Keep hose end near the drain pit for when the hose starts to drain.
Once heater starts draining, open the relief valve to allow air to enter and speed up the draining of heater. If water comes out of the relief drain when you manually open it, wait a few minutes for the tank to drain down past the relief, then try again.
once empty, use socket tool you can buy to unscrew 'counterclockwise' till it comes out. Using a flashlight look into hole at bottom of tank to check for amount of sediment. If there is sediment, reattach hose and open water valve to tank and allow water to flush out sediment. If sediment doesn't flush I have used a shop vac rigged with small diameter hose to fit in element hole and clean it out. once sediment is cleaned out, screw in element and reattach two wires to element;'it doesn't matter if you switch the wires, it will work either way as it is 220 volt.
Close tank valve and open water valve; let it fill. Bleed air from hot water faucets before you turn on hot water elements, then you can turn power back on to heater and you are done.
May 27, 2014