Bonaire Durango 5,900 CFM 3-Speed Window Evaporative Cooler-6280035 - The Home Depot
Discontinued

Bonaire Durango

Model # 6280035

Internet # 204680088

Store SKU # 1000025307

5,900 CFM 3-Speed Window Evaporative Cooler


Bonaire Durango 5,900 CFM 3-Speed Window Evaporative Cooler
 

This item has been discontinued.
The Home Depot no longer carries this specific product.

$548.00 / each
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PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Model # 6280035

Internet # 204680088

Store SKU # 1000025307

Durango's Best Window/Wall Evaporative cooler. Slim attractive design Easy to install and maintain cools up to 1900 sq. ft. Save hundreds of Dollars over Refrigerated A/C. A Green Healthy Alternative for the 21st Century.

  • 5900 CFM
  • Easy installation
  • Cools up to 1900 sq. ft.
  • Remote control
  • Adjustable louvers
  • 3 speed controls
  • Optional thermostat, interior and exterior covers
  • USA support for parts and warranty
  • Home Depot Protection Plan:

    Home Depot Protection Plan

SPECIFICATIONS

Dimensions
Assembled Depth (in.)  25.34 in  Assembled Height (in.)  46.10 in 
Assembled Width (in.)  33.50 in  Cooling zone (sq. ft.)  1900 
Product Depth (in.)  25.34  Product Height (in.)  46.1 
Product Width (in.)  33.5  Window opening maximum width (in.)  48 
Window opening minimum height (in.)  22  Window opening minimum width (in.)  22 
Details
Air Volume (CFM)  5900  Amperage (amps)  4.1 
Built-in HEPA filter  No  Built-in carbon filter  No 
Color  Beige  Color Family  Beige / Cream 
Commercial / Residential  Commercial / Residential  Evaporative Cooler Product Type  Window Cooler 
Horsepower (hp)  1.5  Number of Speed Settings 
Product Weight (lb.)  86 lb  Programmable Timer  No 
Remote Control  Yes  Returnable  90-Day 
Voltage (volts)  110 
Warranty / Certifications
Certifications and Listings  1-UL Listed  Manufacturer Warranty  1 Year 

CUSTOMER REVIEWS

Rated 3.8 out of 5 by 26 reviewers.
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Works better than my 5ton As with anything, there is no such thing as one size fits all. This unit is designed to fit the "standard" window. Houses come in many shapes, sizes and dimensions. You may have to alter your window to install this unit. We have only two windows in our home that open up and down, which this unit is really designed to be installed in an up and down window. When we got it installed, we realized that the lip of the unit with the brackets wouldn't work. We had just barely installed new baseboards and had a little left over. We took some of that 6" tall baseboards and discovered it was the exact dimension of the difference between the window sill and the frame of the window. So we installed in on the sill, then installed the unit with no hitches. I will note that the bracket is really a cheesy little thing and hardly deep enough. You may need to go to the store to purchase a deeper L bracket for your window install. It doesn't come with the tubing or the spigot part you will need to attach the water supply to the unit, so make sure you purchase these two items as well. The instructions must have been written by a politician because they are vague and non committal. Such as" the float is factory pre-set and may need some adjustment". That is nice, how about telling me how to adjust it? We got it installed in under two hours, including the modification time of the window sill and a quick trip back to home depot for the tubing for the water supply. The float was installed and allowed very little water into the reservoir, this is a very finicky unit and simply will not allow water onto the pads unless the water is at a specific level. We had to make some "blind" adjustments to the float because the instruction manual and website simply state "may need modification". We bent it very carefully until the water was allowed to reach within a 1/2" of the overflow tube. Once we did this, the unit began spraying water onto the pads. Turned it on and left it on when we went to bed. Woke up to a wonderful 64 degrees on low water and low fan settings...it was great. Till I went outside to feed the animals and discovered that our anti-siphon spigot was spraying water from the anti-siphon port itself. This cooler was maintaining the inside of my home to a wonderful temp of 74 degrees even though it was over 100 degrees outside. (its rated for 1,900 sf, our top level is 1,400 sf fully vaulted up to 24') To make the repairs to the anti siphon spigot, I had to shut the unit off and wait for my husband to come home, we estimate the loss of several hundred gallons of water from this problem, but it wasn't a problem with the unit. I turned on our 5 ton, which was just serviced and replaced with a new one only two years ago. It struggled to keep the house at 82 degrees where the Bonaire had no problem maintaining 74. We have tried many things to include two 5600 CFM solar attic fans, ceiling fans in every room and moved one of the return registers to the top of the wall verses the bottom. No matter what we did, our 5 ton simply couldn't keep our 1,400 sf upstairs below 80 once the temps hit 95 or higher outside. We got the spigot fixed, the house had hit 84 degrees inside with the 5 ton working hard to cool. Once the spigot was fixed, we turned the 5 ton off and the Bonaire back on, within one hour, the house was back down to a wonderful 74 degrees again. We hit 104 degrees this day and the Bonaire evaporative cooler ran circles around our 5 ton central air that sucks down the electricity. I don't know what our electric bill is going to be, but I know the second we turn on our 5 ton, the electric bill will be over $300 more and struggle to keep temps below 80 degrees. Nothing is "perfect", parts will break down and when stuff is built for the "standard" you need to remember the age of your home and the fact that what is standard today, may not be standard tomorrow. Having said that, about the only complaints I have are the following. You should list on the box what you need to get this up and running when you get home like the sillcock, the tubing, and your instructions need to be written better. "may need to adjust" might be good for you, but a woman that does great in the kitchen....has no idea how to adjust that darn thing! So please expand your instructions to people who have never touched these things. Youtube was my support in getting everything fine tuned on this unit and the only way I would have ever managed to get it up and running. The sound isn't too bad, but you might not want to install it in a room where you will be sleeping. My husband who has difficulty hearing can't watch the television in the same room where this is with his hearing aids in. It isn't too loud, in fact as far as noise goes, it is more quiet than our 5 ton which I can hear through the wall of the house. The image with the spigot, you will need to purchase the part with the thing poking out on the left with the black water tube. I don't know the technical terms, but figured out how to install it. Sorry for the "thingy ma bob" terms. July 15, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Oh so cool We had a hamster wheel window swamp cooler years ago and loved it. The only drawback was that every time the motor started it made a terrible sound as it engaged and started blowing. On a thermostat it would wake us up every time it turned on during the night. We got new windows and there was no longer a convenient window to hang it in and so we go rid of it. Boy did I ever regret that decision. We decided this year to either get a new window unit or to go all the way and install a side draft roof unit. The roof unit cost too much so we settled on a window unit. My research led me to this interesting Australian product with the funny low profile look. I thought "no way can a traditional horizontally mounted fan blade push the same amount of air that the hamster wheel could push". Let me tell you that I was wrong. It moves an insane amount of air at maybe half the noise level of our previous window unit. I used to be a big time believer in the straight up traditional aspen pads. Now that I have seen these CELdek pads at work, I'll never go back. There is a reason this thing can be low profile. These pads allows the unit to do so much more with so much less. You can actually watch the water running though every little space in the pads. The design controls the course of the water to force it to be available for evaporative action for as long as possible. The only real problem I experienced was that the neck of the blowing portion of the cooler is insanely long. I had to construct a spacing frame on the outside of the window to pull the face of the blower out a bit. We have interior shutters and in order to have them close in the off season we needed to have the blower sit further back in the window. If you have newer vinyl windows, you'll need to construct a solid sill to rest the unit on. The attachment points under the blower require a solid surface at a right angle with the blower. It was a half day install with a friend and lots of sitting around staring at the install location wondering exactly how I wanted to do it. I imagine that if you were just poking this thing in a window, it would be a 45 min project. By the way, there is a pretty much mandatory bleed on this unit. I attached some 1/4" tubing to the bleed line and ran it a couple of yards into a bush. You really need to keep the moisture away from the house. This thing is a wonderful unit. I haven't had crazy high temps yet but it was 92 outside and 75 inside. Pretty acceptable for me. I also recommend the UpDux that home depot sells. They allow the air to vent up into the attic and out the attic vents meaning you don't have to open any windows or doors. 6 UpDux did the job for this unit in our 1700 sq ft house. May 4, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Impressed on how small it is but still works I purchased the 5900 model in mid April. I live in the Phoenix metro and averag temp for April was 76 and highs were between 85 and 95. We have a 2300 sqr ft 2 story house. We ran the cooler on low most of the day and would have to wake up in the middle of the night and turn it off as temps would get down to the low 60s. On the 95 degree day the house got up to 74 downstairs and 76 upstairs never turning it up to medium or high. Moving into May temps have hit 107 the house never got hotter than 76 withe the cooler running on high 24-7. The April bill was about 10 dollars lower than last year will update on the may bill compared to running the two ac units and having the temp in the house at 80 between 12 and 7 pm. The unit itself was installed in about one hour but I am planning to trim it in later to make it look better as the outside of my windows have a large stucco lip on the top and bottom and doesn't look to fancy. On high it is very loud. The damper on the front is capable of adjustment to blow the air to the left or right. Would be nice to have it go up an down or even rotate but must be install one way. The unit I purchased at homedepot had been returned little disappointed in that. The remote is not even worth it unless you are in front of the cooler. We bought remote plug in receptacles and use to turn it on and off as they reach from upstairs to downstairs. Also on a remote receptacle we have a box fan in an upstairs window helping to push out the hot air and bringing the cool air to the southern exposed master bedroom. If it were not for the HOA I would install upstairs. May 30, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Definately an excellent investment As a landlord, I am always looking for a cost effective, reliable, and long lasting solutions to solve tenant/landlord issues. This is it. This cooler works twice as good as the conventional metal swamp cooler, and will hopefully last twice as long. Very easy to install. Caution: closely inspect product after removing it from the box and look for cracks due to rough shipping May 11, 2014
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Yes it works, but.... I live in the Las Vegas area with triple digits temps in the summer with very low humidity, which are optimal conditions for an evaporative cooler. I am the type of person that cannot stand being too warm in my home. I had thought about installing this cooler for many months, but my Homeowners association actually declined approval. I went ahead and installed it in an area of my home that no one can see because I wanted to lower my electric bills. My home is 3400 sq feet and two levels. The cooler was placed in a window which slides open from the side and not a top opening window, and this complicated the installation. In addition the window also was the type which sits out about 8 inches from the exterior wall, which also made the installation much more difficult. After trying for hours trying to install the unit and being unable to locate studs on the exterior stucco wall, I ended up calling a handyman to help. He told me that there is a foam layer and wire mesh layer on stucco walls which makes using a stud finder useless. The handyman was able to locate studs in order to mount wood to support the bottom of the cooler to the wall. The handyman also cut an acrylic panel which we placed in the space between the cooler duct and the top of the window opening. Lastly, we placed tubing for the water supply and the drain line. After turning on the unit, I found that the drain line was draining about 30 gallons/hour; FAR too much. Additionally I found that after the water supply was turned on and the unit was started, that excess water was spilling from the lower corner of the unit and making a pool of water on the floor. I called the tech support line and really were not very helpful. I opened and examined the interior equipment of the unit, and could find nothing clearly wrong or missing. I confirmed that the unit was level, yet still excess water was spilling at a significant rate from the rear right bottom corner of the unit. I also confirmed that the water float of the unit was at the appropriate level. I determined that the design of the water spills simply were allowing more water to spill over the filter on the right rear side of the unit, allowing water flow over the rear plastic shell of the unit and to leak out between the cover of the unit and the main structure. I examined the "restrictor" which the manual says should limit the water supply to the top of the unit and allows it to spill down over the filters and found all to be intact. In fact all the "restrictor," was simply a washer with a smaller diameter than the plastic tubing. Therefore all I could determine is that the unit is simply poorly engineered. I fixed the issue of too much water being supplied to the upper water spill by placing a valve in line so that I could exactly regulate the amount of water going to the spills. I decreased the flow of water until I noted that all the filters stayed moist with water, but not so much that the water spilled out of the bottom of the unit. I had to even epoxy some plastic strips to block excess water spilling over the right-side spills in order to stop the leakage of excess water from the bottom right side of the unit. Then after all of this I found that the water overflow which helps to drain excess mineral deposits from the unit still was flowing at far too high a rate (yes it was placed distal from the valve). So finally I decided to simply recirculate the overflow water back into the unit which may decrease the life of the filters. I did put a water filter on the supply line to decrease the mineral content of the water to the unit. So finally I got the water inflow adjusted so that the unit kept all the filters moist, but not overflowing water. I kept the unit running continuously for a day. After 24 hours on medium setting, the second main floor of the home bottomed at 73-74 degrees in the morning with the exterior temp of 78 degrees. During the day, the exterior temp reached 104 degrees, and the interior temp gradually peaks in the house around 81-83 degrees. On the second day with the unit on high, the interior second level house temp gets to a low of about 70 degrees and again peaks at about 82 degrees when the exterior temp peaks at about 103 degrees. I found that if I opened my bedroom door (also on second level) and opened one window in the bedroom that I could actually keep acceptably comfortable for sleeping in the bedroom as well. Thus the 5900 CFM unit was capable of taking the place of a 3 ton HVAC unit normally cooling the bedroom suite, as well as a 4 ton HVAC unit cooling the remainder of the upstairs area comprised of the living room, kitchen, and dining room. I even think that on high, the bottom level also may be adequately cooled although it will be a couple of degrees warmer than the upstairs. Thus after many adjustments, the unit now functions quite well. It struggles during the peak hot hours of the day, but not to the point where I become uncomfortable and have to turn on the HVAC. It works quite well at night as I mentioned where it replaces 7 tons of HVAC at hopefully a much lower cost. I will be monitoring my electricity bill to hopefully see a large decrease in by electricity bill. August 18, 2014
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