Rated 1.9 out of 5 by 62
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by DnADiesel Functional, but not optimal attachment
Pros: good value, functional
Cons: very short attachment length to wire
Overall, these clips are entirely functional, so long as you are willing/able to do some prep-work to the wires to make them work decently over time.
In a nutshell, these will work, but I recommend tinning a short amount 1/4" - 6mm of the wire, so that the set-screw firmly holds the wire.
The set-screw is positioned in the clip body such that only the last 1/8" - 3mm of wire is actually held by the screw. If you only twist the wire-braid and use the set-screw to hold the twisted braid, it is possible that the connection will loosen over time and may pull out of the clip. Tinning gives excellent hold of the clip onto the wire.
I may think about squirting a little bit of RTV sealant into the end of the clip housing as well to further seal the connection against corrosion.
Would recommend to friends with the caveat that they tin the wire prior to installation within the clip itself.
September 13, 2015
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by nostradamus3 decent quality but horrible product support
First, the plugs feel like decent quality for the price and fit perfect in the speaker port. But, this product has zero product support, instructions or suggestions. Normally not an issue, it just shows they dont care. Plus, the one locking screw is poor and wouldnt secure my 18 gauge wire at all. The website doesnt even say you get 10 plugs! FIX...to secure your wire , strip 1/4 inch of wire and bend the copper wire backward (see pic) this will allow the screw to catch the plastic shielding and lock the wire. Minus 3 stars for screw and product support
May 11, 2013
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by PicoDeGallo OK quality. Here is how I installed them.
The reviews for the CE Tech banana plugs from Home Depot were decidedly mixed but I went ahead and bought a pack of ten (five plug pairs, perfect for my 5.1 speaker system less the subwoofer, which takes a separate special cable). Because of the reviews, I knew I was in for a little work. Here's what I did:
Working one wire at a time, I stripped about three-eighths inch of insulation from the end of my speaker wire then tinned the wire with my soldering gun. When cool, I trimmed back the exposed tinned wire to about one-eighth inch. Looking in the wire end of the plug, I loosened the set screw until the wire would fit, slipped the tinned wire into the plug, and tightened the screw. The screw and plastic plug cover do not need to be removed; the set screw holds the cover in place when the plug is slipped over the wire. Also, you don’t want to drop that tiny screw.
You need a wire stripper, wire cutter, soldering gun or iron with solder, and a small Philips screwdriver -- I used a #0 -- to make this work. After you do the first plug, it is easy to move along and finish the other wires. Since I was changing over from Monster Cable angled pin plugs (they were horrible) to banana plugs on existing speaker wires, I worked on one wire in each pair at a time so I didn't make a mistake with the polarity.
The CE Tech banana plugs are not the greatest quality but they were in stock in my local Home Depot and I didn't have to order them and wait for delivery by mail. Radio Shack lists banana plugs on the website but the are solder-only (no set screw) and were not in stock at my local store. Its a shame: Radio Shack used to be great for basic electronic items like this.
May 18, 2015
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 Only a buck each, what did you expect?
These are inexpensive connectors, near the bottom of the line. The price per unit reflects that quality. Still, they can do the job if you know how to use them. First of all, do not strip the wire ends if you plan to use the set screws. The screws can push through the insulation just fine unless you are using something like Teflon-insulated wire. Make sure to tighten the screws as much as possible to make sure you have firm contact with the wire. If you want a more secure connection, strip the ends and use solder, but use only enough to do the job and solder on the side away from the screw hole. Don't fill the "pot" with solder or you probably won't be able to use the screw to fix the insulating sleeve in place. I doubt that any of these methods will "provide a more reliable connection" than bare wires, as stated on the package, since the main connection is still a pressure fit.
The core metal in these is steel, not copper, so they will rust quickly despite the "gold" plating.
The extra holes in the connector make it easy to "stack" these if you are using more than one on a socket.
August 1, 2013
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Kenny Almost unusable
These banana plugs are almost unusable. There is less than 1/4-inch slot in the end to insert the wire and a tiny screw is supposed to secure the wire into that tiny slot. If you bend your wire, you can get it to grab and hold, but I didn't feel like it was secure or solidly connected. And, when I say "slot," I don't mean a hole you can insert your wire through and screw it down. I mean a well-like hole less than 1/4 deep that you stub your wire into. For this price, you can buy nice banana plugs that are much more user friendly.
October 27, 2015
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by eatapc worst on the market
The hole for feeding the wire through is sealed off right at the tightening screw, so only a tiny piece of wire makes contact with the screw. The connection is not reliable.
June 28, 2015
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by Robert Speaker Banana Plugs
These plugs seem to do the job just fine! 14ga wire was a bit of a tough fit however.
October 1, 2014
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Pelican Do Not Buy, If unfortunately you did, see instructions below
I would never buy this banana plugs again, very cheaply made, the wire slot is way too shallow to catch any wire securely. However it was Christmas Eve and I had no choice and had to make it work. So for those who are stuck with them, here are the instructions, thanks to a couple of previous reviewers who gave the clue: First strip wire to leave ~3/8", then fold the ends to form a nipple ~3/16", take off the screw and plastic sleeve, insert/force the nipple into the wire slot, put back the sleeve and screw so that the screw goes through the middle of the nipple, forming a "loop" of copper wire around the screw. Only after this the crew can be tightened. Good luck everybody.
December 25, 2014