Rated 2.7 out of 5 by 19
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by DPGS Yup, these things suck
I am not the most competent handyman by any means but I like to think I know how to use drywall studs. I bought these for a laundry room shelving project and assumed they would do the job perfectly. Instead after three days the shelves started pulling out from the walls. It absolutely shattered my self-confidence until I started reading actual reviews on these- I ALWAYS do that before a purchase, not this time. Huge mistake. Two broke and one did not engage. Absolute junk.
June 6, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by john total junk
3 of the toggles broke with just using a screw driver. absolutely a waste of my money. complete junk
April 22, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Roy Too weak!!
This is self drilling anchor but, it was broken when I screwed the anchor.
I complete three holes and four anchors were broken.
I drilled large holes and I completed my work.
March 21, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Bricago Having trouble with these? These tips might help.
I use these often for wall mounting jobs. (TV mounts, floating shelves, mirrors, etc.) They work best in 5'8" or thinner drywall, because the toggle needs about 5/8" between its pivoting end and the Philips head end to properly swing out from the anchor sleeve. They won't work on double layered drywall. Exterior walls with insulation and/or a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting between the drywall and insulation) can make installation difficult, since the toggle can snag on either one. I prefer to drill a pilot hole with a 3/16" drill, about 2" deep, and see if any insulation grabs on and comes out when I remove the drill. If it does I use the self drilling point of an anchor to insert one as deep as the threads without engaging the threads in the drywall. Then I poke a screwdriver through the hole to clear out the barrier and insulation, so the toggle has room to operate.
I suggest taking a moment to closely examine how these work, particularly the "ramp" that the screw contacts to deploy the toggle. I've found that inserting a screw into the toggle for a few turns, then removing the screw and gently repacking the toggle before screwing one into the wall increases the chances of success. The idea is to preset the toggle so it needs minimal pressure from the screw to deploy. Don't repack the toggle by locking it all the way in, just give it a hair-trigger, so to speak. I've ruined several anchors by ramming the screw into them, thinking more pressure would help, but it just jams the screw tip into the soft and easily dented ramp.
After you drill to check for insulation and vapor barrier, then preset the toggle and screwing the anchor in, NOTICE THIS: there are arrows on the Philips head showing you the orientation of the toggle. You want to snug down the anchor into the drywall the right way the FIRST TIME, if possible. Gently adjust the anchor until the arrows point where you want. If you strip out the hole in the drywall, and the anchor can spin freely in the wall, it might still work, but it's not ideal.
Now it's time to insert the screw. Remember: easy does it, no slamming it in. You'll know it's working if you give the screw a few turns, then try to pull the screw out of the wall. You should feel the toggle pressing against the other side. It will take SEVERAL turns to snug the toggle down, and you don't want to apply too much torque or else you'll strip out the hole in the toggle. I use my drill on a low torque setting to screw until I start to feel a little resistance. The screw head will actually be all the way flush to the anchor and spin freely for a pretty long time. Keep going. It's pulling the toggle closer to the wall. When you start to feel resistance, switch to a hand screwdriver and snug it up.
Finally, these aren't meant to be removed. I spoke to a company rep about this. Like toggles from toggle bolts, you're supposed to just push them through the wall and patch up the holes.
Good luck with your project.
March 8, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Mr303 Horrific! Do not buy this product!
As with the other reviews I had 100% of the anchors fail when trying to use them. This product claims to support 100 Lbs the design is so poor that if you're able to get it in the wall the odds are that the product has failed and would compromise what you're hanging. I would encourage Home Depot to discontinue working with this supplier.
June 13, 2011
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by Chris A little trick I learned
It seemed like the screws weren't threading properly as if the inside threading was stripped and the screws weren't catching. I was very worried after reading all of the negative reviews but after fiddling for a while, I figured that if you screw them in by hand while pulling away from the wall, for some reason it catches. Don't understand the physics of it but after 20 minutes of cursing at the wall and thinking about the ramifications of having to pull them out by force and spackling the huge holes, I figured that out. Hopefully it will help others. Not as intuitive or easy as their plastic 75 lbs counterparts which I use all of the time.
March 13, 2013
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Birdistasty Absolutely horrible!
I just got done mounting a six foot long shelf with closet bar with these, using eight different anchor points. I used the anchors as described (push the screw through to activate the toggle, then screw in the rest of the way). Two of the eight did NOT hold when screwed all the way in. I replaced them, and it was fine.
I started to put the clothes on the closet bar and had gotten the bar about half full when I heard cracking. I got out of the way in time, but the shelf was completely ripped off the wall, and the anchors ripped giant holes in the drywall.
Absolutely positively the WORST anchors I've ever used.
November 23, 2010
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by LadyLovesPowerTools easiest toggles ever
Toggles easy to use! Have used several brands of this type of toggle, and they're all great! Have not ever had one break during installation or fail as an anchor. I have used them to install cabinets, utility rails, shelves and monitors/TV's.
Only for hollow wall use; someone mentioned exterior wall & insulation, other user got it...the insulation has to be moved out of the way, or it will prevent the toggle from pivoting and locking properly.
I've been able to take out the anchors and re-install. If you pay attention to the arrow on the head of the anchor, the toggle goes back to horizontal when unscrewing and then the anchor can be un-installed and re-used. And the holes are still smaller than when using traditional toggles, which are near impossible to retrieve and end up falling into the wall.
I used an awl to get better accuracy for placement of the anchor. This probably also decreased the stress put on the anchors from a less than ideal installation. I also manually do the last turns of the screws for better control, and only use power tool for the first 75% so I don't go crazy. You don't "need" to use a drill, it just makes it way faster.
January 14, 2015