Rated 2.5 out of 5 by 35
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Nate These do work well when done right
My toy chest was on the line in size, so I bought two, installed one in the center, regretted it and installed two on the outside filling the holes I made in the center. I used the "center" technique for both of them, though which was better. It all worked quite well and I learned a few things that may be useful for you:
1. Use somebody, or some clamps to keep the angle set while you mark and install the pieces. The angle is the most crucial feature. The other measurements are secondary to this. In my case I couldn't measure the other dimensions well since my lid was not simple, but had some features that made it stick out around the body of the chest.
2. Make other measurements from the center of the hinge where it pivots, not the edge of the box. When you use the center technique, you don't need to worry about distance from the back, only distance from the top. As you can see from my picture I would be wrong to measure from the top edge to the bottom of the hinge, instead I also have to include how far the hinge is from top of the box.
3. With just the distance from the top and the angle set, position the top of the hinge in it's relaxed position as out of the packaging. Don't try to stretch or compress it into place. Keep the hinge as straight and square as reasonable. The rest of the measurements don't matter.
I only rate this 4 stars since I think it could have been higher in quality, but I think the value is excellent. Good luck!
January 27, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by manny Antique Brass Universal Lid Support Hinge
I have used these commercially for over 25 years; although there have been some design changes in the past, I have found no problem in using them at all. If installed properly(left, right, and center) they will hold a large lid at a 85 degree angle without any problems and closes the units just fine. Not sure about the 90 degree issue, but 75 degree works for me in most applications. For a larger opening, I would use a torsion hinge, but that is about six times the price. To me, form, function, and price... all around its just great!
August 14, 2013
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by MountainMom Don't Waste Your Time!
I bought this to convert my old Hope chest into a Toy chest for my daughter and I am highly disappointed. The instructions are confusing and make this more complicated then it needs to be. Then, once I installed it, it does not provide a soft close that I wanted to protect my daughters little fingers from getting pinched nor does it provide lid support to keep the lid open when you are getting something out of it. Plus, who wants to only be able to open a chest 65 degrees? Most people would expect at least 90 degrees to get into a chest on the floor. Its just normal body mechanics. Taking these hinges back and doing some research to find a better hinge.
May 24, 2015
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by bil Won't work with strap hinges mounted on outside of box.
Built a cedar chest and used strap hinges on outside of chest. These supports won't work. No mater how much you try.
Called Stanley. Nope, won't work on strap hinges.
Really should say that on the package and, the instructions are not very good.
November 9, 2015
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by jward junk
Don't waste your money or time. I put 3 of these on 15lb. lid and wouldn't hold open or even slow down closing. Guide calls for 3 supports on a lid 15-26 lbs. since this was the low end of the scale I thought it would support easily. Set measurements precisely as to instruction from the center of the hinges failed miserably.
October 13, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by JackofSomeTrades Works Great - If installed Properly
After reading the wide spread of reviews - I decided to try these hinges; for I couldn't find something similar that was any better. After rereading the positive & negative reviews and studying the instructions on the back of the packet - I installed the hinges. They work great!
1. You have to measure from the pivot point of your main hinge. If your hinge is on the outside of the box, you have to factor in the width of your material for your hinge placement. I made my toy box with a top face plate with the main hinge inside of the box. I simply measured from the pivot point as instructed.
2. I recommend that you secure the bottom of the hinge first. Then have someone hold the lid at the appropriate angle to mark the location and secure the top portion of the hinge in place.
3. My lid is made of 3/4 pine and is 20x39 inches. I purchased three hinges (left-right¢er) after installing the left and right hinges and testing the safety of the lid closure - it worked so well that I returned the center hinge for it is not needed. Additionally I was concerned that the center hinge would be in the way.
4. Drill shallow pilot holes in the center of your hinge screw hole openings. Use a drill bit no more than half the diameter of the screws. The pilot hole should help the screws not drift out of position.
5. The screws provided are 3/4 inch in length; again my lid is 3/4 inch in depth. I slowly installed the screws about 2/3 the way - then backed the screws out and cut off the last 2-3 screw threads to ensure that the point of the screws did not puncture the top of the lid.
I doubled checked everything and the hinges work extremely well. I hope that you find these tips helpful. Good Luck
December 16, 2014
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Me Terrible instructions, good luck
Of the last 20 home projects I've done, this has got to be the worst instructions I've seen yet. Works ok as a center hinge, but after trying the left / right configuration three or four times I could never get it to close correctly. I hope you have better luck.
September 26, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by RBinNY Hinge works well, but pay attention to directions
I bought with trepidation, after reading the brutal one-star reviews. But hinge worked fine; directions were fine as well. I used three of these hinges for a three-lid toy chest (my own invention). Lids were 3/4 inch pine and not too heavy (maybe 2 to 4 lbs.). I used the "center" method for all three.
Some tips not previously mentioned in other reviews: (1) Here's something cool I discovered screwing around with a piece of paper: Half of 90 degrees (one right-angle corner of the paper), is 45, and half of that again is 22 1/2, and 22 1/2 plus 45 is 67.5 -- and the angle of the lid is supposed to be 65 degrees, so voila. Fold your paper a few times (kind of as if you're making a paper airplane), unfold the piece that equals 67.5 degrees, and use that to approximate the lid gap. So you don't even have to buy a cheap protractor.
(2) Yes, you really need to have someone hold the lid at that angle while you square up the hinge. But if your wife happens to be upstairs cooking lunch for the kids (darn you, kids), and you happen to have a long bungee cord/old tire inner tube (better), you can wrap the inner tube around the lid and secure it to (in my case) an empty shelving cabinet that's sitting behind the lid. Just shift the cabinet back and forth to adjust the lid gap. Stayed in place fine and kept this to a one-man job. :)
One caveat: The screws in the package are long! Would have preferred thick half-inchers instead. I just bought some other panhead 1/2 inch screws and junked the original screws. Hope this helps someone.
January 19, 2015