Rated 3.9 out of 5Â by 20
Rated 4 out of 5Â by Jerry Bend/spread the clips apart in half inch increments until your able to push them up with your finger.
I've found that the clips, especially if used with 5/8 in dry wall, are spread too close together right out of the box. Using a pair of pliers bend/spread the clips apart from each other in, an extra, 1/2 inch increments. I struggled like heck to install these right out of the box and was about to return it to HD when I dropped one of the clips onto the floor and notice the clip's spread seemed kinda tight, about an inch and a quarter spread. I checked the other clips and they were close to that measurement but not consistent in their measurement, that's when I spread the clips and they worked perfectly. Good luck.
September 30, 2014
Rated 1 out of 5Â by DIYKB waste of money and TIME
The spring steel tabs that are supposed to make installation a "snap" are anything but a snap. Allmost all of the reviews I've read agree. Halo, a brand of Cooper Lighting, a sub-brand of Eaton, should be re named. There is no luster on this Halo; only tarnish and disappointment.
November 11, 2014
Rated 4 out of 5Â by Jack Directions are awful, but product looks good once you realize how to install.
The directions were awful. Here is the solution. As I was pushing in the clips to install they kept popping back out. As the rubber coating on the clips started wearing away I realized there was a little nub on the clips. On the nub you could easily use a flat head screw driver to help push the clip up further then I was able to with my fingers alone. Some people may not have this problem if they have thinner drywall, but mine was thicker fireproof drywall which was probably why I had such a hard time. So if you are having trouble with the clips popping out, try using the flat head screw driver. They popped right in using that. Hope this helps people out!
July 24, 2012
Rated 3 out of 5Â by rock clips to new drywall only
i think this product good except for the way it clips to the drywall, if this is a remodel can it should be able to adjust to different thicknesses ,old drywall size could be a bit deferent you know how everything is thinner these days . i could not get it to clip so i had six holes in my ceiling and a product that would not work
September 2, 2014
Rated 4 out of 5Â by pbinCA Used these cans with LED downlights
To modernize our kitchen, we went with 4" recessed LEDs (2700K) that are dimmable. These need a luminaire (can), and the HALO H99RTAT was selected based on price and having the right Edison screw socket. The retrofit design simplifies installation. First, you plan your gangs of LEDs on the same circuit. I put 4" screws in the ceiling to mark the locations (make sure each location doesn't collide with a ceiling truss). Then you go up and string 14-2 Romex from the last switch going around to visit each can. Leave about 12" of Romex loop for each can. The rest can all be done from the downside.
That said, the instructions that come with the H99RTAT saying "clear the insulation 3" away from the can" do not pertain to LED bulbs. In fact, just the opposite. If your attic heats up to 140 F. the way mine does in the summer, if you expose the can to these attic temperatures, you will exceed the Max. Operating Temperature of the LED (mine are 107 F.), and the result will be to shave years off the longevity of the LED. The LED is designed to be operated in a temperature controlled environment, so you want to completely cover the can with your attic insulation. The HALO mfg. has to put the "non-IC" designation and warning about insulation on the fixture because it contains an Edison bulb receptacle, and an incandescent bulb can light throws off large amounts of heat.
The results are fantastic. DIY alert: it took an average of 1 hour per light to install.
October 27, 2013