Rated 4.5 out of 5 by 44
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by SMRY Heatguard Tank Booster
Hot Water Tank Bradford/White (30Gal/Electric 2-Heating Elements-4500 Watts)
Glacier Bay Water Filtration System (Just After Water Pump/Expansion Tank)
2 Sinks, Toilet, Large Soaker Tub
Purchased Tank Booster (Home Depot)
Installed Tank Booster Following Instructions (Very Strait Forward DIY Project)
Turned Up Heating Elements To 140 Degrees (As Instructions State)
Very Hot Water Before Tank Booster (Lower Side Of Booster)
Cold Water After Tank Booster (Upper Side Of Booster) & All Throughout The House
No Mater Where The White Knob Is Set On Tank Booster / Same Results
No Hot Water After Tank Booster, Nor, At, Faucets
I would Very Much Like For This Device To Work, As, I believe To Be A Nice Product
I'd Like To Be Able To Change My Review Results To More Favorable Figures, But,
At This Point, Just Not In The Cards.
I'm Certainly Open To Other Ideas/Suggestions/Advice In An Attempt To Have
The Heatguard Tank Booster Working Properly Within My Water System
August 30, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by SwampFox Well worth the money !!
I was in need of replacing my 15 year old water heater and while researching units to buy I saw the ad for this Tank Booster and I liked the reviews and thought what the heck. I bought a new Rheem 40 gallon gas heater and the sharkbite fittings along with the Tank Booster, I call it a blender. I installed it all myself and I'm no plumber, Very good quality and it was great to adjust the water temperature at 125 at the faucet so no more scalding while adjusting the water temperature in the shower or sink. I really recommend this product. For $90, it's well worth it I think. I wouldn't use it in a hard water area without a softener before the tank...
January 10, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by sacherjj Works as advertised. Good for anti-scald and more hot water.
I was happy to see this available in the seeds program, because I was needing to replace my hot water heater. Perfect timing.
The easiest install for this is if you used flexible braided hoses for water connection. That allows a plug and play install with just fittings to tighten. The water heater I removed had copper directly to the top. Since I was changing heights, I needed to do some copper work. But I decided to terminate with some snake-bite to hot water heater hoses. This allows me to hook directly to the hot water heater and then to the booster as I try both setups. Had I have seen the snake-bite hose with a valve, I would not have had to sweat on a copper valve with the rework.
While I understood two of the three benefits of this device, I did not understand the third. Running hot water at 140 degrees or higher, eliminates the possibility of bacteria growth that is possible around 120 degrees. It seems like this would be more of a factor for those with well water, but good to understand. The problem with running at 140 is scalding from the faucet. So this does the premixing with cold to drop the temperature to a safe hot. As your tank temperature drops while trying to keep up with use, the cold feed reduces. Then you are eventually running full hot and will start to see a temp drop. The time it takes to get at this point depends on the instantaneous heating capacity of your hot water heater.
The bottom line is this does what it is advertised to do. It stretches your hot water. I'm not sure if we got to the 2x hot water that was advertised, but I'm not running the tank as hot as I could. If you were debating getting a second hot water heater, then the cost of idling a tank hotter might be less than the second water heater install.
My mom likes to set her hot water way too hot, so she can have long water supply. She is mixing down to a sane temperature at the tub, but it leaves the situation where someone can turn hot only and get injured. This gives the same advantage, but with more safety.
September 7, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Retired297 More Hot Water, with a Lower Cost
This is a great mixing valve and simple to install. But first I like to fill in some back ground, We have a 50 electric duel element heater and if we would to rise our dinner pots and dishes and followed it with our nightly hot bath we always had cold water running before the tub was filled and the water was already set at 135*. After installing the Booster and setting the temp. to 140*, we now rise the pot and all head off for the bath and still have hot water running as the lever hit the overflow. Now that's a boost in my book, with more hot water available for less cost. It may be hard to figure lower cost so let put it this way, before we drained the tank completely, and had to heat a full 50 gals, now we use 30 gals of hot water mixed at the valve installed, so you are only heating the 30 gals.... science...
As far as the install goes it's straight forward, turn off power or gas to the water heater and then water to the house, open the valves to relieve pressure at the sinks. SAFTEY FIRST Next, remove the lines on top of the water heater and install the tee to the cold inlet and the mixing valve the hot outlet. Follow by the crossover cold water line from the cold to the mixing valve, three are filter screens, like those for line on washer lines, that need to be in place. The valve is per set for the 120* outlet temp, so all that is left is adjust the water to at lease 140*, turn on the water and bleed air out, check for leaks, before turning back on the power and/or gas. Last step is to check the water temp at the sink, pick one close to the water heater and the farthest, my our double check to check two, temp should by 120 to a top of 125*. Very last detail is to place the sticker that comes with the valve showing the tank is set to 140* and a valve (sink) temp of 120*.
My case is by my figuring is a 75 gal capacity now out of a 50 gal electric water heater and I've also added one to my other place with a 40 gal gas water heater with same type of results. In my book, Can't go wrong with this 'Tank Booster".
February 1, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by PEM mixed feeling
Certainly the product received does not look like the product in the photo; it was not received with a white knob. why they cannot sell a product that looks like what they show?
the idea and the explanation on the product feature is good and make sense; pending the results from my own experience after 2-3 months.
i gave it 1 star because of the product sold looks different from what they are still showing until now. why no one pays from the seller's side pay any attention.
therefore, i cannot recommend or not recommend this product until tested & photo of product reviewed.
April 26, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by 1handyhubby This will add whole house anti-scalding to your home and deliver hot water sooner.
After installing the Cash Acme Heatguard Tank Booster along with a new natural gas hot water heater, I was impressed just how well it actually improved hot water delivery throughout our house. Another benefit the Cash Acme Heatguard Tank Booster provides is whole-house anti-scalding, by its factory default heat setting of 120 degrees, protecting everyone in your household from scalding burns. Depending on your existing pipe fittings, you may need to purchase additional hardware to complete the installation of the tank booster.
April 11, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by JohnS Great solution to a tough problem.
So your water heater doesn't seem to last long enough; guests, teenagers, large whirlpool tub. And you tried the "turn up the temperature some more". The problem is it makes it difficult to safely control the temperature at each faucet in the house, especially for guests that are unaware.
You could replace your water heater with a larger unit. That's expensive. Solution: The mixing valve kit. It includes everything you need for a basic installation to most any type of tank water heater.
I have a small electric heater for a single bathroom. I installed this unit and it worked as promised.
The instructions, and especially the pictures are very good and very accurate. Follow them carefully. But when you disconnect and reconnect the water supply lines you will notice that the valve takes up about 6 inches of space on the hot side and 3 inches of space on the cold side. So if you do not already have new flex supply lines attached, you may need more parts and make some adjustments to reconnect the supply lines.
In my case, I had recently replaced the cold supply that was an older copper flex line with a braided stainless steel supply line. It was flexible enough to handle the 3 inch difference. But on the hot side, I had to bend the 18" copper flex line a lot to make it fit back onto the mixing valve outlet. I will be replacing that supply line soon. It's best to assume you will need to replace your tank supply nipples (preferably with heat trap dielectric nipples), and your supply lines. I even replaced my shutoff valve from a gate valve to a ball valve.
Once that was done, I flushed my tank, flushed my lines, and adjusted the temperature. The valve is set for 120 degrees, but I wanted 130. So I set that at 130. I am not sure it will adjust above 130 degrees. I then set my tank at 150 degrees, and left the allen wrench in the valve for future adjustments if needed. One thing I would do differently: I would set my tank to my new temperature (150 degrees) before installation and verify temperature with a temperature probe because water heater dials are not very accurate, and you cannot check the internal temperature once the valve is installed.
I decided to clean the strainers to be sure they were clean from the flush. It's important that you depressurize the valve by turning the cold supply off and opening a hot faucet to relieve pressure. I did not open a hot faucet and when I removed the cold supply hose from the mixing valve, the check valve popped out of the valve body. While tech support was easy and fast to reach, I had to figure out how to reassemble the parts myself. (yes it works again.) I'm glad I checked because the screen had debris in it.
The thermo-strip was installed but will be useless as I will be insulating the pipes. And it appears only Home Depot will warrant this unit as the manufacturer requires licensed plumber installation only.
If your water heater is old, you're better off replacing it with a larger unit. But if you have a newer tank water heater in good condition then you can use this tank booster mixing valve kit to increase your hot water supply. Just be ready to buy new supply lines.
February 8, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by diyeratl Great Product, Increases Usable Hot Water
The TankBooster is an extremly easy to install, average DIYer project that can be done in 15 minutes. After installing the Tankbooster I have noticed a significant increase in usable hot water. The project is simple, turn the water off to the tank and run a faucet to drain the lines. Turn the water heater off remove existing connections and put tee on cold water inlet, Mixing valve on hot water outlet and thread the supplied flex hose from Tee to Mixing valve. Then simply thread back on water heater connectors, I changed my lines out using Sharkbite Water Heater connections and then added a Sharkbite temperature gauge that inserts into a Sharkbite Tee, not necessary to complete the install but I wanted to upgrade the flex hoses and add in a temperature gauge to monitor. Once complete turn water back on, turn Hot Water Heater back on and crank temperature to 140-150 degrees. The mixing valve regulates the temperature down to 120 degrees by mixing in cold water so your tank uses less hot water to reach the same desired 120 degree outlet temperature thereby increasing the usable hot water you can get out of the same tank. Tankbooster prevents scalding by regulating output temperature. By raising the temperature in the tank you prevent legionella bacteria from growing because it cannot survive in temperatures that high. Awesome product and a great way to get more hot water out of your existing tank.
May 20, 2014