Rated 4.1 out of 5 by 34
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by MM Used for concrete counter tops
We used this product to "overcoat" the concrete counter tops we built. I used a 3/4" piece of plywood, covered with aluminum grating screwed to it. Pre-drilled holes for sink and faucet and plugged them. Installed trim on the front to hold in the concrete. Poured concrete and let it dry. At that point we used the Featherfinish to fill in the remaining area to make it level with the top of the front trim sanding as needed in between. After 30 days, stained and sealed it. Looks great! The only advice I will give for the featherfinish is that it is easier to use in thinner layers. We did 3 counters and the thinner you do it the easier it is to work with. You can do it thick and you can stain and seal it.
April 19, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by beautifulbusdriver this stuff is great...
i am a 60 year old DYI person. it would have been too expensive to tile my downstairs (slab). I decided to create the wood floors I wanted that would stand up to my husband in regard to the cleaning issue.
I removed all carpet and any fake tile. cleaned my floors well and let dry. I mixed henry's to a slightly thicker consistency than pancake batter. I poured on the floors. let it set for ONLY A FEW MINUTES, scored my planks and ran a wood graining tool along the planks. after I did the entire room I let it dry. I sanded the floor lightly and as necessary to smooth out. vacuumed well. I wanted dark floors so I watered down some rustoleum black paint. used a roller to apply. let dry. for a weathered look I sanded areas to remove the paint. sealed with cement sealer. I get so many comments about my wood floors. I can scrub my floors with a brush and they still look great.
April 30, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by 2eagles Best patch / skim coat I've worked with...
...had 3/4 of the box left after filling holes/ leveling so I applied it to my hideous 70s yellowed fake marble bath counter! It was super easy - if you can frost a cake you can cover a counter. Took maybe 3 hours total application, smoothing then a light sanding, for a 4' counter. It's curing now, heading to HD for sealer.
March 30, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Reese Does what it says.
Good product. Easy to use as long as you know how long you have to work with it.
May 3, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by skiddie95 Seized up solid in under 5 minutes
I bought this to apply to a small laundry room floor. Got only one trowel's worth out of it. You either have to keep stirring to keep it soft or you have to accept that it will seize solid within 5 minutes of your stopping. I followed the directions to the letter -- and watch my money solidify in the bucket.
March 21, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Novice Leveling a sub floor
Works great. Leveled a depression of 1/2 inch in the subfloor. This allowed for installation of wood floor. Just be sure to have a mixer blade for a drill. Gets very thick when mixing.
March 8, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by indigoskyy great decision
had to apply quite a few more coats than anticipated but i am happy with the end result. even with having to purchase more product than i was planning, it was much cheaper than purchasing all new countertops right now and it gives it a cool industrial look. backsplash is being redone now! :)
April 29, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by jsk404 Works well for intended use!
First off this is a feather coat up to 1/2" thick.
Second, it says it is for filling holes, leveling floors and can be used to make or repair sills.
Third, mix as recommended 1 part water to 2 parts material, add water to bucket THEN ADD material, mixing in powder as you go.
This will mix nicely into a putty consistency (not self leveling), mix only what you will use in a 10 to 15 minute time frame.
I am tiling a small bathroom 25 sq. ft. I ripped up the old tile and had to replace a piece of plywood flooring. I then used some old Armstrong leveling cement I had from years ago needles to say I didn't have enough and bought this to fill some dips I had. I was hoping it would self level it self but saw it was thick. I went to apply it and it spread nice and smooth, you do need to work it a bit but laid to what ever thickness I wanted with out sagging. I had to build up 1 area to little more than an 1/8" thick and feather it down at the edges with in 15 minutes I had a 4' long by 8" wide section leveled and smoothed out. I mixed 4 cups of powder into 2 cups cool water (not sure if temp makes a difference in curing time) in a 2 gal. bucket mixing by hand with a 3" wide knife, it mixed fast and easy. I had to build up one other section about 18" in dia. about 1/16" thick in the center I used 1 cup powder into 1/2 cup water and worked the mix from the center out to the edges then from one side to the other to get a nice feathered finish. That area hardened in the time it took me to type this. The thicker area did take longer to dry over an hour (well at least before I let anyone go in there to step on it to shower and yes we only have 1 bathroom and my youngest 18 is like a bull in a china shop and he stepped in the original cement and that's why I needed to buy this, to fix his hoof print).
Remember, this is not and will not self level, you need to work it in. I don't know how it would be mixing the whole box but smaller batches worked great for what I did and a little goes a long way.
February 24, 2016