Rated 3.1 out of 5Â by 18
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0Â by Texas Will not work with CFL bulbs
This will not work with CFL bulbs.
Another point is, when the bulb fails the unit simply does not appear to work. The motion LED does not trigger. If it looks like the unit has failed, simply changing the bulb is likely the solution.
The unit needs a load to work. A blown bulb or low current consuming CFL, and the motion sensor will not operate.
This has worked well for 2 years now.
October 20, 2012
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0Â by johnnywad pretty nice
Had 2 of these for over a year now.........the only time it acted up was when the light bulbs got weak.......the load was 3x40 watts and the lights would turn onloff randomly.....tech support said the bulb filament is the problem even though they all were lit.......I went up to 3 NEW 60 watts and the problem dissappeared..........like the other poster I believe this device needs a load, but I believe good bulbs are key.........if yours cuts on randomly, get new bulbs...........if it flickers your using too low wattage(cfl, led, etc) stick with your old incandecent power wasters and your set
March 4, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0Â by ToolMechanic Great for kids that don't turn out lights
I have 3 kids that do not know how to turn lights off. (No matter how much I fuss) After installing these in the kids hall and bathroom, I have been very pleased. Installation was extremely easy. Everything was provided in the box. I removed my old switch and wired the new switch as per the instructions and replaced. Now the kids don't even have to turn the light on, they are very excited when the light goes on automatically. Great product, and I don't have to keep screaming for the kids to turn the lights out.
October 5, 2009
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0Â by Doraemon Tricky to connect on 3-way, not versatile
On the box, it says not to be used with CFL. However, I connected it to 2 CFLs and it works fine. The tricky part is when you actually want to replace one of your existing 3-way toggle switch with this sensor switch.
1. In order for it to work, this sensor switch must be directly connected to a HOT wire so that the internal circuit in the box will always be on. If you look at the instructions, it shows a connection where the load is connected to the sensor switch. As we all know, there are at least 3 ways to hook up a 3-way circuitry. Therefore, this sensor switch will not work when the source is connected to this switch first and then connects to the load or another 3-way switch. The reason is because the yellow/orange wire on this switch must be driven by 120V/0V for the 3-way switch configuration to work. Therefore, it makes this sensor switch not robust or versatile for different kind of 3-way switch configurations. I will explain more below:
2. There is a yellow/orange wire on this switch. This wire is an input from a traveler wire from another 3-way/4-way switch. When the wire sees 120V, it will activate the circuit and turn on the lights. When it sees 0V, it will turn off the lights.
3. As we know, 3-way switches are placed quite a distance apart to serve its purpose (hallway & staircase) and only 1 switch is fed with the HOT wire. However, the wiring diagram that comes with this product calls for HOT connection to both the 3-way toggle and sensor switches. This is not a practical design at all. This means with most existing electrical connection in existing homes, you have to pull a HOT 14/2 cable from one 3-way switch to the other or from another electrical box. Hmmm..... not a simple thing to do with existing circuitry.
This is what I did to overcome the problem. I'm not a certified electrician but a Radio Frequency Electrical Engineer so take my words at your own risk:
In my existing circuitry, I have the source (HOT) going into the box where I want to put in the sensor switch. It also has the load (lights) wires in it. In between the two 3-way switches (for staircase), I have a 4-way switch (for hallway). It adds complexity but I guess my example is a good worst case scenario configuration.
1. I pulled another HOT wire from a different breaker (regular 15A) from a nearby electrical box to source the first two 3-way and 4-way switches. The sensor switch is sourced by another HOT wire from a different breaker (15A AFCI). This is an existing connection.
2. Both 3-way and 4-way switches have their NEUTRAL wires connected together. The neutral of the sensor switch is not really neutral because it is first connected into the AFCI breaker. Therefore, its neutral is not connected to the other 2 switches' neutral. DO NOT connect all 3 circuit neutral wires together! It will trip the 15A AFCI breaker.
3. In reality, the sensor switch is not a 3-way switch. It only works like one and with a 3-way switch configuration. Therefore, you cannot connect it like any regular 3-way switch configuration.
4. I only connect one of the two traveler wires from the 4-way switch into the sensor switch's yellow/orange wire. I capped the other traveler wire.
5. If you slide to OFF on the sensor switch, then the entire 3-way switch circuitry will be off. It acts like a MASTER OFF for the entire 3-way switch circuitry.
6. I left the sensor switch to AUTO and it will work like a regular 3-way switch circuit. This means that if you toggle either the 3-way/4-way switches, the lights will turn on and stay on up to the designated ON TIME you adjusted on the sensor switch.
7. If you slide to ON on the sensor switch, the lights will stay on even though you toggle any other 3-way/4-way switches on the circuit. It is like a MASTER ON for the circuit.
1. Difficult to install when you do not have HOT wire going into both 3-way switches. In fact, this is almost the case with all 3-way switches unless the box is also used as a junction for another circuit.
2. Check with you local building code if you can use 2 circuits from different breakers (if you have no other choice) to wire up this "3-way switch" configuration. In reality, it is not a standard 3-way switch circuit because the sensor switch must always be powered up. Therefore, it is more like one 3-way switch circuit supplying 120V/0V to activate the ON/OFF switching in the sensor switch (yellow/orange wire).
3. I believe it is a current driven circuit in the sensor switch (a bunch of BJT circuit with TTL logic) that controls a mechanical relay in the sensor switch.
4. If you're not a DIY person or have no clue what I'm talking about, then you better consult a licensed/professional electrician if you really want to buy this sensor switch and use it. Also, if the circuit is not on a 15A ACFI breaker, it is a good idea to upgrade it even though it cost about 15 times more than a regular 15A breaker. Some cities only require bedrooms to be on a 15A AFCI breakers, but recently my city have mandated that all living area (living room, loft, den, family room & bedroom) must now be on 15A AFCI breaker.
Hope this info helps.
January 22, 2012
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0Â by FixItRick Nice Product - Had to use Incandesent bulb
It does a great job of detecting motion. Installation wiring procedure was clear.
The package says "fluorescent magnetic ballast lighting" so I hoped that meant it will work with compact fluorescent lights but it turns out that this will not work with cfl's. So I rated this product 4 stars since the package label did not exclude cfl's.
In my case, I switched to an inefficient incandescent bulb. Since I have it set to turn off after only 8 seconds, that works for me in my specific situation.
(Geek speak: I figured out later that this type of motion detector circuit gets its power by trickling a very, very small current through the light fixture when the light looks off. I could probably have used a dimable cfl, but I did not have one handy.)
December 15, 2009