Rated 4.7 out of 5 by 24
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Rick Loctite Heavy Duty Epoxy
This is my "go to" epoxy for all manner of projects and repairs unless a slow setting version is called for. The 8 oz (total) size is perfect for large projects, such as working with stone. I used this to fabricate a couple of granite fireplace hearths, and it did a great job gluing the various pieces together. I mixed a black colorant into it for one of these, which had no perceptible impact on curing or final strength. It does, however, begin to cure quickly (as is intended), so you don't get a lot of working time. But as long as you can assemble parts fairly quickly, I haven't found an application yet where it hasn't worked for me.
January 26, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by TripleR Not for every application
Used this to try and secure a running light on my car. It would not bond to the glass to the plastic and rubber bumper, so it was a waste of money.
March 22, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by crazyman Great repair product.
Product is great for repair of unique pottery, masonry, wooden, plastic items (expensive decorated indoor or outdoor garden pots, outdoor statuary, lawn ornaments, stone or cast concrete driveway markers, driveway drain crock shoulders, lawnboy discharge chute, etc). Nothing is stronger or better to cement pieces together, fill gaps, bridge missing areas, etc. Although the epoxy will discolor (yellow) with age and sun exposure, there is a fix - fill it or dust it with sand or color granules, just like Nature Stone!
First clean, then cement all recovered broken pieces together with epoxy and let set using gravity, clamps, rubber bands, etc., to hold pieces together. Note that as the epoxy is relatively thick, be sure that the applied epoxy is quickly worked to completely cover the entire edge of each piece to ensure maximum strength. You can expedite the setting / cure process on smaller items with a little warmth. A kitchen oven "pre-warmed" just by leaving the oven light on works great. The sun exposure also works great to accelerate the cure in mild weather. A car trunk on a sunny day is also great. Allow this initial assembly to cure completely. Glue line squeeze-out can be carefully removed with a razor blade after the epoxy has fully cured. Carefully clean up any smears with methanol or rubbing alcohol as soon as possible as fully cure epoxy must be cut, scraped, or sanded away.
Large gaps or missing / destroyed areas can be filled either with epoxy alone, or, working quickly, mix in sand and / or fine gravel (<1/8") right after the initial mixing of the epoxy, and then apply the mix before it starts to set. Use gravity and forming to keep the applied mix in place. Form the repair using masking tape (sticky side facing the expoxy!), or for larger areas, form it with heavy paper or cereal box cardboard. Put a piece of kitchen waxed paper on the "epoxy" side of the cardboard. With everything taped / clamped / secured in place, then apply the (optionally sand-filled) epoxy mix. The waxed paper will release cleanly from hardened epoxy leaving a smooth surface, but any folds or creases will leave marks. Masking tape can be pulled fairly easily from hardened epoxy and will will leave a slightly textured surface. Shape with machinist files and/or sandpaper to contour as necessary. Apply top dressing of epoxy to level dips, then sand to contour.
I also have used wallboard fiberglass seaming mesh tape to bridge / reinforce larger repair areas, and reinforce decorated clay pot repairs working on the inside of the pot. Overlap the tape a minimum of 1/2" to 1", and apply the first coat of epoxy (without sand filler), being carefull to get full coverage and "pop" any larger air bubbles before the set starts using a toothpick, pin, or dental pick. I typically apply tape then lay up epoxy thicknesses of about 1/16 inch to bed the tape to the substrate, as thicker layers might "float" the tape. Sand lightly between fully cured applications for best adhesion. Additional tape layers may be applied and epoxied over. Additional layers may be applied shortly after the initial set of the prior layer (without sanding), being careful not to disturb the prior applied layer. Epoxy will self level best if placed quickly to maximize the flow time before the initial set.
I have also applied the sand / fine gravel mix epoxy for thicker repairs, so far up to 3/4 inch, as for a badly chipped driveway drain crock shoulder (approximately 1.5" x 3" span), the part that holds an iron drain grate in place). Note that thicker applications will set quicker as the epoxy setting reaction generates its own heat. The epoxy repair will withstand car traffic. Adding sand or fine gravel makes the epoxy like a concrete, will protect the sub-subsurface epoxy from UV damage in outdoor applications, and increases the volume of the mix to improve cost effectiveness. I have filled with up to about 50% sand / fine gravel, and the mixture does stiffen but remains flowable and workable and remains largely self leveling as loading is increased. While the applied mix is still fluid (before initial set-up), sprinkle sand or color granules to match and texturize the surface, otherwise it will tend to level to a glossy finish like un-filled epoxy. Warning: Sand /gravel filled epoxy will be much tougher to form using files and sandpaper. Careful forming is crucial to minimize file and sanding work.
On curved or angled surfaces, such as a concrete or stone driveway marker, like the classic ball-on-platform, place "folded back" masking tape to form a dam (Remember: sticky side facing the epoxy!), apply the epoxy to the damaged/missing area, then fold the masking tape back down and/or over and / or carefully apply additional masking tape right over the just-placed epoxy to hold it in place and prevent slumping / flowing, and to provide approximate contouring. Let the epoxy thoroughly set and cure, then carefully remove the tape. Light sanding will remove any masking tape residue, tape seams and any irregularities. Voila! you have defied gravity and a workable repair is made. Final shape as necessary with files and / or sandpaper. Scuffed epoxy can be paint primed, or apply a skim coat of epoxy with matching filler and/or dust with matching sand before the epoxy sets to get a nearly invisible repair.
NOTE: This epoxy is a 5 minute set, so form the work area well, work quickly, let the epoxy set and cure undisturbed for maximum strength, and make gravity work for you. Working time is increased at lower temperature, while higher temperature, along with thicker repair projects, will shorten working time. Use tongue depressors, popsicle sticks, tooth picks, or wooden applicator swab sticks (similar to Q-tips, but with ~1/16" diameter wooden posts, available at your local drug store) for mixing the epoxy. Glossy heavy postcard paper works well for mixing the epoxy on. Clean up un-cured epoxy with methanol or rubbing alcohol as soon as possible before fully set. Let placed epoxy fully cure - avoid disturbing epoxy that has begun to set as this will weaken final bond and monolith strength.
February 12, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by CeeJay Great service
The product was delivered on time & it was a reallreally good buying experience ..... I most certainly be buying again n will recommend using the online option to buy from HD
January 3, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by RB Good bonding strength
Glue appears to be as strong as any epoxy I've used. I would prefer a better delivery system for easy mixing though.
November 12, 2015
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by whyyesifly HOT Epoxy
I was caught off guard by this product's qualities. I have used many epoxy products that are much less 'liguid'. This product has a lower viscosity than most products that I have used. Be aware of this so you select the correct product for your project. For example, I attempted to fill gaps in a vertical concrete structure. This was a challenge because it behaved like pancake syrup. It just did not remain in place without running down. Then 'suddenly', the metal container that contained the epoxy mixture became very warm, within 2 minutes after combining the resin and hardener. It then solidified very quickly. To complete this project, I need to wait about 2 minutes after mixing before applying. After that point, I had only about another minute to work with the product until it solidified. Work fast!! It has a elastic property that is unlike many other epoxies.
This product works well. Just know that almost without warning, its temperature rises because of the chemical reaction and sets very quickly. If you want a very low viscosity product the solidifies very quickly, this is it.
August 11, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Popeye Don't be home without it!
The best quick set two part epoxy. 50/50 mix. Sets minutes. Extremely strong bond.
July 14, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Bill Best product to for cement block joints
I used this product to join solid cement blocks in order to.prepare a solid base for air condition unit. I have mixed the product with sand in order to fill the joints between the blocks and make a strong bond between them. The result is a very solid base 25X25X3". With an approximate cost of $10. In lieu of paying $80 for a ready made one
This material is durable, stronger than concrete, I am using it to repair chinaware, leather,metals, plastics, wood, i am very satisfied with the results. Beside it is transparent.
April 8, 2015