Rated 3.8 out of 5 by 18
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by DIYinFC Nothing but trouble
My contractor used this product to finish my retro stair treads - oak. He hoped that the fast drying formula would allow us to complete the project sooner, but it has been nothing but trouble. We applied according to directions, in recommended temp and humidity. It has taken over a week for the first coat to dry. Every time he tries to sand, the finish gums up, not allowing him to progress.
My contractor is first a painting contractor, with many years of experience working with products such as this. This is his (and mine) first - and last- time working with this fast drying version of MinWax poly!
April 15, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Alexander Good finish but product doesn't store well
I have used Minwax products for over 40 years and have always been very happy. This was my first disappointment. I only needed a small amount but apparently they don't make pints anymore so I had to buy a quart. As expected it did the job. However, I just opened the can to use it again only a month later and there was a half inch of solid mass on the top. When I broke through that the rest of the polyurethane was like glue. It was completely unusable. So, if you need the whole quart, fine buy this product. But if you only need a small amount find something else because this doesn't store well at all. I've never had this happen to a can of polyurethane before.
December 24, 2015
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by DrDIY TURNED MY WHITE CABINETS YELLOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am extremely torn, as this product was very easy to use and apply to my cabinets that I had painted white. I applied this "CLEAR" coat to avoid smudges from fingerprints and whatever kind of kitchen messes could muss up my white cabinets over the years. I was completely stunned and powerless to do anything as the finish dried and my cabinets are now yellow. I am going to try to get a very fine sand paper to see if I can somehow sand off some of the finish(?). Hopefully I don't ruin the paint job as that took several days and coats. I am just devastated that I purchased this CLEAR product, and it turned out yellowing my project. PLEASE use caution if you are planning to use this over a light/white painted project. I gave it 3 stars because it was surprisingly extremely easy to work with and went on smoothly and beautifully. Maybe not the most conventional tool, but I used a trim pad to apply it. It's not foam, but more like a pad with very short hairs that you would use to apply paint to trimwork so you can get very close to edges. It seemed ideal for getting in the corners of my cabinet doors. I didn't have any issues with bubbles or dripping. I only regretted it after it dried yellow. I am attaching a photo of the finished product (don't mind the backsplash which is still in progress).
May 23, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Bib Good Results So Far
Even though it doesn't give instructions for spraying this finish on the can I have extensive experience with spray finishing so I decided to go for it. So far it's coming out amazing. I'm using a gravity feed hvlp with a 1.3 tip and spraying on very light coats and it's resulting in a beautiful low-luster sheen.
September 3, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Margie Polyurethane clear
I need some advise... I apply clear polyurethane on the tops of my oak chairs and two of them are dry the other 4 are sticky after 24 hours. What can I do to fix this.. Help.. This has never happen before....
August 6, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by melissa Smooth Finish
I have a bit of experience refinishing cabinets and doors. This is the first time I used this Minwax product. I was encouraged to try it by another customer. I brushed on the first cabinet door, like the instructions said and I did have the bubbles. I was using a Purdy Syntox brush. This product is thin and easy to spread, so I dipped a sock in the can and went over the brush strokes knowing those bubbles can't dry and ruin my door. The sock worked perfectly. I did the rest of the cabinets using a soft sock and the results are perfect. I can't believe how fast it dries and the sheen is a satin, not a gloss. I will say that because it's so much thinner than other polys, you have to do about a coat more. No big deal when it dries to the touch in about 6-8 hours.
April 22, 2015
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by Heather Turned bettle kill pine floor yellow.
I don't have anything else to say because after working as long and as hard as I did, and even after testing a 1' board, when I got to the very last step in the project (poly) it turned it a bright yellow. I'm sick to my stomach - I can't believe how hard I've worked on this project, followed all of the rules, and now it's yellow. Not yellow'ish. YELLOW.
May 18, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Joe A staple for many years
I have used Minwax clear poly for years staining windows,doors, and trim in new construction. As many notice, proper sanding and prep is 90% of your finish product. Many will also find poly will tend to bubble when applied full strength even following instructions thoroughly. You will find when detail to prep, sanding, and removing all foreign matter (dust, bugs, etc) from the surface immediately prior to coating can result in a more durable finish far superior than any Lacquer can provide with a glass smooth finish even from a brush. I encourage taking your time sanding (I typically use 3M fine sanding sponges) and vacuum the entire surface prior to coating with poly with the bristled attachment and a shop vac.
How do you keep the bubbles from giving flaws to your finished product you ask? First, never shake the can to mix, always stir slowly with a paint stir stick given by all paint stores when asked. Second, never dip your brush directly from the can, always pour some into a seperate container so not to contaminate the entire gallon or quart. Only takes one brush stroke when applying to pick up foreign material and the entire can will give you sanding nightmares.
If you are familiar with Alkyd bases (oil base), then you know there are many options to thin or cut some of the viscosity and brush drag when applying. Full strength has minimal work time and over working will leave your effort full of brush marks. From my 20 yrs of experience, lacquer thinner, or paint thinner has some minimal affect on the finish sheen or shine. I myself prefer mineral spirits as it evaperates slower and gives you a greater work time for even and full coverage. Thinning with a slower evaporating solvent (naptha and toluene works well also) gives time for the product to eliminate air bubbles by itself as the thinning solvent evaporates. I typically reduce 10% (10% solvent, 90% poly) for my final coat. First coat I have gone as high as 25% (believe it or not, will dry faster to keep dust from sticking during tack time). I know some who have gone as high as 50%, however, preventing runs becomes a challenge even for one with much experience. Thinning slightly more during first coat allows for deeper penetration into the wood grain both stained or not in my experience, and rarely a brush stroke is seen after drying using a good quality White China brush (Purdy white china is my preference).
Hope this helps! Take your time, prep properly, and Minwax™ Poly will give you many years of durability on all your wood projects.
June 30, 2015