Rated 5 out of 5Â by 1
Rated 5 out of 5Â by JW427 Get the brass, it's worth it twice over
I got this for use with the Aquatic #13232P 2 piece shower stall also sold at HD. Works great.
One thing that is not 100% clear in the instructions is that the top flange needs to be bedded in sealant. I use the best silicone I can buy. The other option is to go with plumbers putty. I use plumbers putty for sinks all the time, works great, last a long time. However no one is generally standing in the sink. The silicone will be more elastic longer, which, I think will prove to be a longer lasting seal.
The rubber and fiber washers are for the bottom. The rubber is the seal to the bottom of the shower. The fiber is to prevent the ring nut or "spud" as I like to call it, from binding the rubber seal. If the rung nut binds the rubber seal, it distorts and will not seal.
Also put some kind of anti seize compound on the compression nut that is on the inside of the drain, and on the "spud" on the outside. If you have to take this thing apart ever, you will thank yourself for that.
So why not plastic? This whole project was because a plastic fitting like this failed. That probably was not the fittings fault. I suspect it was not bedded correctly or what ever was used to bed it simply dried up or washed out over time. But ... when I had to get the old one out I had to destroy the compression nut and really boogered up the threads. The plastic seizes as bad or worse than the brass. Yet, the plastic is not durable enough to take the force required to unscrew it once it's seized up. Plastic is appropriate for a lot of things. This is not one of them in my opinion.
This job ended up being a total tear out so no big deal. However, if I the situation was not as extreme the plastic fitting was not at all repairable. That would have resulted in a much worse problem.
If you are putting the shower on grade / slab, install an access panel if you can. Then when you bed the shower with plaster lumps as the instructions say to, be careful to leave some strategically placed space between the lumps so you can get at the spud or ring nut on the bottom of the fitting. If you do that, it then becomes possible to replace this assembly down the road without ripping out the entire shower stall.
The one good thing about fiberglass tubs and showers is that they can be repaired and re-gel-coated to better than original condition in place. I've seen the bottom carefully cut out of them to fix waste line problems, then seen them put back to new condition.
November 22, 2012