0047563706420

Owens Corning

Model RU70

Internet #202585906

Store SKU #564987

Store SO SKU #583042

R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.

$19.48 / each
If you buy 20 or more
$13.64 / each
  • Soft to the touch, easy to cut, split and install
  • Greenguard GOLD certified & verified to be Formaldehyde free
  • Offers exceptional thermal and sound control performance

Frequently Bought Together

Product Overview

Choosing The Right Insulation

Faced Insulation

Faced

Face insulation uses kraft paper vapor barrier to control moisture transmission between 
walls and floors 

*Check your local building code for requirements
Unfaced Insulation

Unfaced

Unfaced insulation does not have a vapor barrier; used over existing insulation in the attic, or where moisture control is not needed

Rolls Insulation

Rolls

Continuous rolls are easy to transport and can be cut to length; great for large areas

Batts Insulation

Batts

Come in pre-cut lengths for faster installation and each package contains more square feet than rolls; ideal for framed cavities

Blow-In Insulation

Blow-In Insulation

Installed using blowing machines, best for adding additional insulation in attic

Regional R-Values

Regional R-Values Map

The Department of Energy recommends different insulation
levels based on regional climate zones to increase energy efficiency

Map key with insulation type based on region

EcoTouch insulation is the reinvention of fiberglass insulation from Owens Corning, the industry leader that invented fiberglass insulation. Install our insulation with confidence knowing that over 70 years of innovation and experience has gone in the making of EcoTouch insulation. Unlike traditional fiberglass insulation, Owens Corning EcoTouch insulation contains more than 99% natural ingredients consisting of minerals and plant-based compounds and is verified to be formaldehyde free. Owens Corning EcoTouch insulation is third-party certified to include a minimum of 65% total recycled content for unfaced insulation and 58% for kraft faced insulation. Owens Corning EcoTouch insulation helps to control sound and temperature - keeps your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

  • Dimensions: 9 in. x 15 in. x 25 ft., 1 piece (31.25 sq. ft. / roll)
  • Application: Attics
  • Provides thermal performance and helps lower monthly heating/cooling costs
  • When adding a 2nd layer of insulation in the attic, always add unfaced insulation
  • If your joist cavities are completely filled, lay unfaced insulation in long runs perpendicular to the joists
  • Department of energy recommends an R-30 to R-60 for attics
  • You need 20 in. of insulation to reach an R60 in your attic

Info & Guides

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Specifications

Dimensions

Details

Warranty / Certifications

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Customer Questions & Answers

69 Questions157 Answers

Customer Questions & Answers

R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.
R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.

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10 answers

Installing insulation on existing insulation.

This question is from R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.
Asked by
WGABill
Carrollton, GA
April 7, 2013
I bought an old house that currently has R-11 fiberglass insulation between the 2x8 rafters. I want to install R30 roll out fiberglass over the existing insulation. Can I lay the new insulation over the old insulation? Does there need to be a layer of insulation that covers the rafters?
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Answers (10)

Asked by
Aberdeeen, NJ
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
December 18, 2015
Answer: 
It sounds like the existing insulation (R-11) is coming up short of the of the top edge of your 2x8 rafters / ceiling joists. I would run R-13 Un-faced on top of the R-11 between your ceiling joists to fill the Void, and then run the R-30 un-faced perpendicular to the rafters / ceiling Joists. That should give you a little more than R-50.
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Asked by
Lake Jackson, TX, USA
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
January 14, 2015
Answer: 
Use unfaced insulation crossing the older insulation for best performance. That's all you need.
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Asked by
Cincinnati, OH, USA
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November 17, 2013
Answer: 
We had very minimal insulation installed between the joists so we rolled ours across in the opposite direction. you will want to purchase UNfaced rolls so you dont create a moisture barrier going over the existing. If your existing rolled insulation is installed with a facing on the upside you will want to slice the facing with a razor knife apprx every 12" so you dont trap moisture between the two Read More
We had very minimal insulation installed between the joists so we rolled ours across in the opposite direction. you will want to purchase UNfaced rolls so you dont create a moisture barrier going over the existing. If your existing rolled insulation is installed with a facing on the upside you will want to slice the facing with a razor knife apprx every 12" so you dont trap moisture between the two insulations. Read Less
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Asked by
Anonymous
Louisiana
Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
October 31, 2013
Answer: 
Roll it right over the existing insulation. since my old insulation between the rafters was almost to the top of the 2x8 I just rolled the insulation perpendicular with the rafters, right on top of the old insulation and the rafters. I did this last winter, and I noticed a dramatic reduction in my cooling cost in the summer and my heating bills this fall are less too. So it works great.
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Asked by
Portland, OR
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
October 24, 2013
Answer: 
Sounds like it'd be way better for you to install loose-fill insulation that will fill all the voids in existing insulation and raise above the joists to minimize thermal bridging. That'd be my professional advice.
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Asked by
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October 1, 2013
Answer: 
You can roll the new stuff right on top of the old without a layer in between. I would go the opposite direction to cover any air gaps in the old. Best would to be to roll another layer of R-11 on top of the old inline to make the old stuff (4 inches thick) flush with the top of the rafters, then roll the R-30 out on top in the opposite direction.
There doesn't need to be insulation that covers the Read More
You can roll the new stuff right on top of the old without a layer in between. I would go the opposite direction to cover any air gaps in the old. Best would to be to roll another layer of R-11 on top of the old inline to make the old stuff (4 inches thick) flush with the top of the rafters, then roll the R-30 out on top in the opposite direction.
There doesn't need to be insulation that covers the rafters, but layering in multiple directions will decrease air movement, increasing insulation effectiveness. Read Less
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Asked by
cbright890
July 22, 2013
Answer: 
My house has the same problem. I have insulation between my rafters that doesn't come all the way to the top of the rafters. I bought the R30 unfaced rolls and just rolled them perpendicular to my rafters. This way works fine and is a lot easier than trying to roll it between the rafters and over existing insulation. There will be air pockets between the old insulation and new insulation, but remember Read More
My house has the same problem. I have insulation between my rafters that doesn't come all the way to the top of the rafters. I bought the R30 unfaced rolls and just rolled them perpendicular to my rafters. This way works fine and is a lot easier than trying to roll it between the rafters and over existing insulation. There will be air pockets between the old insulation and new insulation, but remember air is a great insulator.
I've seen a major decrease in my electric bills since I've insulated. So it is a proven way to insulate.
I hope this was helpful. Read Less
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Asked by
Read all my Q&A
May 28, 2013
Answer: 
As long as it is still uncrompressed, put unfaced on top to add to R Value
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Asked by
Pasadena, TX, USA
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April 8, 2013
Answer: 
Excellent use for this, as it does not need a vapor barrier.
If your current layer is up to the top of the rafters, then lay this new layer 'cross-wise' and cover the rafters. This will make it hard to walk up there, but it will work very well.
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April 8, 2013
Answer: 
This is an acceptable application as long as the insulation is not being compressed. Also, you should make sure the vapor retarder (facing on the insulation) is facing the warm in winter side of your home, if it is being installed in an exterior wall. Also, if the old insulation has facing, please be sure to install unfaced insulation 'behind' the existing faced insulation. It would be recommended to Read More
This is an acceptable application as long as the insulation is not being compressed. Also, you should make sure the vapor retarder (facing on the insulation) is facing the warm in winter side of your home, if it is being installed in an exterior wall. Also, if the old insulation has facing, please be sure to install unfaced insulation 'behind' the existing faced insulation. It would be recommended to consult your local building code to ensure this is acceptable in your area. Read Less
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7 answers

my Attic is done with 2X8s and this is thicker, I want to put plywood down for storage as this area is over my garage. Will this be a problem

This question is from R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.
Asked by
Rusty
Bayville New Jersey
February 18, 2013
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Answers (7)

Asked by
Lake Jackson, TX, USA
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
January 14, 2015
Answer: 
Late answer, but use the R19 insulation. The R30 will be compressed and not as effective. Another thing you can do is to use a reflective paint on the underside of the roof to help reflect heat. Really does help.
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Asked by
Anonymous
Louisiana
Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
January 23, 2014
Answer: 
Not really, it will compact the insulation slightly, thus losing some of it's insulation quality. So instead of having r-30 you will be closer to a r-25 or higher. You won't notice a difference. Just make sure when you lay you plywood you leave a gap of a few inches between each sheet to allow the insulation the breathe.
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Asked by
Read all my Q&A
October 1, 2013
Answer: 
In MY opinion, squishing it down a little won't hurt anything. I recently installed this in my floor with 2x8's and it worked well.
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Asked by
cbright890
July 22, 2013
Answer: 
This will cause the insulation to compact more, thus losing some of the air pockets in the insulation. (air is what helps to insulate). It's only going to compress about 2 inches, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. You won't achieve R30 but it will be in the mid to high 20's. If you want to avoid compacting the insulation you can rip off a few of the top layers. This insulation has layers, so you Read More
This will cause the insulation to compact more, thus losing some of the air pockets in the insulation. (air is what helps to insulate). It's only going to compress about 2 inches, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. You won't achieve R30 but it will be in the mid to high 20's. If you want to avoid compacting the insulation you can rip off a few of the top layers. This insulation has layers, so you can remove some. This is more work and you will still get the same R-value as the slightly compacted insulation. Read Less
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Asked by
Pasadena, TX, USA
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April 8, 2013
Answer: 
YES, there is a problem.
If there is already insulation up there, the this will just pack it down.
You never want to PACK insulation, as it reduces the insulation factor.
If there is no insulation up there then you want the insulation with a vapor barrier.
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Asked by
Eau Claire, WI, USA
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February 19, 2013
Answer: 
You will lose a little in the R value rating because you are compressing the material but it will compress and allow you to put the plywood over it. It is still worth it for the price.
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February 19, 2013
Answer: 
The R-30 insulation is 9 1/2" thick. Your studs are 2x8's which are 7 1/4" thick. The R-30 will be compressed down roughly to about an R-26. Insulation can be compressed, but it's not recommended as you lose R-value. This will only cause a problem if your local building code requires a certain R-value in that area of your home. Please speak to The Home Depot in your area, or consult your local building Read More
The R-30 insulation is 9 1/2" thick. Your studs are 2x8's which are 7 1/4" thick. The R-30 will be compressed down roughly to about an R-26. Insulation can be compressed, but it's not recommended as you lose R-value. This will only cause a problem if your local building code requires a certain R-value in that area of your home. Please speak to The Home Depot in your area, or consult your local building code to make sure this is an acceptable application in your area. Read Less
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5 answers

WHat gives...?

This question is from R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.
Asked by
Read all my Q&A
February 11, 2014
I added this stuff to my cart it was 13 and change a roll...When I went to check out it jumped to the current price of 17 and change a roll? That's ludicrous
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Asked by
Read all my Q&A
April 18, 2016
Answer: 
This item has volume pricing for quantities of 20 or more rolls.
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Asked by
Lake Jackson, TX, USA
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
January 14, 2015
Answer: 
Did you ask? Sounds like you picked up R19 by mistake.
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March 3, 2014
Answer: 
Check with your local Home Depot for current pricing as this item is only available in-store.
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Asked by
Maine
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February 26, 2014
Answer: 
I had ordered 17 rolls online @ $13.85. I went to store and they went up to $17.79! Spoke to Manager and she let me get another 20 rolls @ first price. All I can say is YIKES (I need another 30 rolls)
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Asked by
Anonymous
February 12, 2014
Answer: 
They had a price drop on it later last year, it was around 13. It's back to regular price again. Which is closer to $20.
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5 answers

does my roof/attic need faced insulation: it has none right now.

This question is from R-30 Unfaced Insulation Continuous Roll 15 in. x 25 ft.
Asked by
albuquerque, nm
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January 14, 2014
just moved into a home that the roof is only partially insulated. do I need to use faced insulation:
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Answers (5)

Asked by
Lake Jackson, TX, USA
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
November 18, 2014
Answer: 
You need a vapor barrier next to the living space. Kraft faced will work if placed the paper side down.
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Asked by
Bridgeport CT
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Home Improvement Profile: Other
October 4, 2014
Answer: 
I am sure that you need our radiant barrier in the roof. It is called radiant insulation it is vented which is very important when you are dealing with the roof. -- No fiber insulation is necessary or recommended. The radiant barrier is heavy foil which reflects heat from the roof and keeps the heat in the house during the winter. Insulating your rafters in the ceiling is the other thing that you must do Read More
I am sure that you need our radiant barrier in the roof. It is called radiant insulation it is vented which is very important when you are dealing with the roof. -- No fiber insulation is necessary or recommended. The radiant barrier is heavy foil which reflects heat from the roof and keeps the heat in the house during the winter. Insulating your rafters in the ceiling is the other thing that you must do to insure maximum efficiency. Read Less
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Asked by
Read all my Q&A
January 23, 2014
Answer: 
Faced insulation is typically only for a vapor barrier, I would not recommend using it in an attic location or if rolled over other existing insulation such as blown in or other rolled insulation.
Batt insulation is more specific to attics, but is more costly. With a knife and some elbow grease this stuff works fantastic.
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Asked by
Anonymous
Louisiana
Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
January 23, 2014
Answer: 
You need to either have paper faves insulation or roll paper out between the joists. If using paper faced insulation, the paper side goes against the drywall, so it will be face down in your attic. When in your attic you should see the pink insulation, not the paper.
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January 17, 2014
Answer: 
Generally, you would use a faced insulation (if using batts/rolls) with the facing down toward the warmer side in an attic. If the area to be insulated is over an area where the temperature on either side remains about the same, you would not necessarily need a facing. Check your local building codes regarding requirements related to insulating in your area.
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Customer Reviews

Rated 4.5 out of 5 by 74 reviewers.
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Lessons learned on installation Installed ten rolls in three hours. Easy to do. Just need long sleeves, knee pads, glasses, knife, two boards to cut it, and six foot pole to put insulation in position. Two tips. 1) I must have bumped my head a 100 times on the rafters. Wear a bicycle helmet to protect your noggin. 2) Use a strap to hold your glasses on. Gets a tad sweaty and they start to fall off while your hands a full. Tried it without glasses, but the dust started getting in my eyes. Regular safety glasses worked just fine. If you find some that are wrap around goggle type, they would do a tad better. I will compare electric bills before and after and post the results later this summer. May 28, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Easy to Install - Little Pricey Our 1950s house had very little insulation in the attic. It took me and the wife 5 hours to do a 1200 square-foot attic. We wore good masks, not the typical painters mask. Like others, we wore gloves and long sleeves. Without them it was a little itchy. It's too bad the price jumped many dollars from just a few years ago. The house does seem quieter alongside a busy street. We have an oil furnace so we can't wait to see the difference this year. Used 36 rolls @ $15 each. I could not use veterans discount on this product. Customer Service told me because it was a hot commodity. October 12, 2015
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Yes, It Smells Bought a roll of this because we had to strip down to stud for a bathroom remodel. The insulation in the ceiling was blow in and this seemed like a simple solution for replacement. Before install, the roll had been sitting in the bathroom floor. We had noticed a strange smell coming from the bathroom, but I figured something had spilled (a frappachino perhaps??) during our work or maybe it was just the smell from opening up the walls. The place was kind of a disaster zone. So, I kinda forgot about and moved on with the work. We finally installed the insulation between the rafters but ran out of time to hang sheet rock. The next day, the smell that we had detected earlier on was MUCH stronger. We then proceeded to sniff everything in the entire bathroom in search for this rather weird smell. I finally found it - it was the insulation. We only have 12 linear feet installed and we can smell it everywhere in the back of the house. It is not pleasant. I'm just glad we caught it before moving forward. We did let it sit for several days hoping it would get better. My wife thinks it has gotten stronger. Will have to replace with another brand. June 1, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Hard job made easier with this product My husband and I purchased this insulation on sale and chose this brand due to its eco friendly properties and R-30 rating. We installed 50 rolls in our attic over a couple of weekends. This product performs as advertised and reviewed: No vocs, itch free, can tear it with your hands if you left your matt knife 20 feet behind you on a board in the attic. Absolutely the best choice we could have made for our project. If you have a low ceiling attic this is the way to go.....easier to roll and push with broom handles to edges than hunch and crouch with the blow-in type insulation which is what I helped my brother do in his attic. November 17, 2013
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by R-30 unfaced Worked great for my purpose. Had to rip out insulation on the roof because the builder of my new house never put in rafter vents. Had to treat mold, vent and insulate. Very happy with the intimation holding up to the cold Vermont winter. February 28, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by This product is excellent This product is easy to use and install. I would recommend buying this to anyone. March 31, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Love the affordable price and perfect for layering up your insulation! Good stuff, used this in an attic to achieve R60. Used owens corning R30 Kraft batts for first layer and than rolled this out over top. Some people commented it doesn't fluff up as nicely as others and I agree. It's very compressed when purchased, but all it takes is a bit of fluffing. Just grab the top layer and give it a few shakes than grab in the middle and repeat. You can even flip it upside down if needed. I used ten rolls in a small attic area and only one roll took a bit more work than the others to fluff up. The R30 batts practically spring to their fluffiness on their own however so not sure why this stuff is a bit more reluctant. However, it's good stuff, an affordable price, and handy size. No itch and nice touch having the R value printed on the insulation in large visible font. When you're layering up install it running perpendicular to the first layer and be sure to butt the edges together snuggly. Seems to be made for layering without the paper backing, nice touch Owens Corning! Would've been a pain pulling paper off each roll. After installation, heater runs noticeably shorter durations to warm up the room. :-) February 4, 2013
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Best value in insulation to levels above R-49 I had to install insulation in the ceiling in my pre-1920 uninsulated home as I live in Montana. I researched the options thoroughly and was about to purchase R-13 roll and R-38 batt insulation (to R-51) until I checked cost. With the contractor pack price this is the best deal on insulation when you want to go above R-49. I was able to add two layers to an approximate R-60 much cheaper than the other options. There was no smell and the rolls expanded nicely especially when I had to unroll and feed the roll through a small opening into the attic. The product is not very ichy when compared to blown fiberglass. Installation is fairly easy even in a cramped space. About my install: I had to purchase the 15 inch wide roll as I have true 2" x 4" ceiling joists. I avoided the faced rolls both because the gap is only 14" between studs and I wanted to buy only one product to get the quantity pricing. I cut a roll of 36" rosin paper in half on my chop saw, cut a sheet to fit, folded up 2" on each side and installed it with staples for a vapor barrier. Although vapor is not as big a deal in most attics in Montana, I have lath and plaster ceilings and there are many air leaks due to cracking. So the vapor barrier also sealed air leaks to some extent. As in many other balloon framed homes, the wall cavities were open to the attic so I installed 2x4 blocking and sealed gaps with fire resistant foam. As I was putting in the insulation I noticed the attic getting much cooler as the insulation now provides R-60. Previous to the insulation it was the warmest room in the house even though it is vented to the outside. January 15, 2016
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