Rated 4.9 out of 5Â by 8
Rated 5 out of 5 Great stuff
I used this product to make an enclosure box for my attic stairs. Just a little something to fit over the attic stairs when they are closed to prevent heat and cooling loss.
It worked perfectly. It's very easy to cut with a razor knife and a drywall square. It actually cuts very similar to drywall.
It does a great job at insulating too. I notice a huge difference in the surface temperature of my pull down attic stairs. Before when the attic stairs were closed the surface of the stair hatch was hot to the touch, now it is closer to room temperature. not to mention I have less air loss.
I will be using this more.
July 15, 2014
Rated 5 out of 5Â by magichat134 Made a solar heater with it
Too many years ago Mother Earth magazine had an article describing how to make a solar powered window heater. We bought this stuff, some black paint and a pane of glass. We already had the duct tape and knife. Made the window heater as per instructions. Stuck it in an east facing window. It worked perfectly! That was when I lived in northern Louisiana.
Later, when I built a barn, I used it as insulation under the tin roof. Again, no complaints.
The backing makes it stronger than plain poly boards. Those things broke way too easy.
September 11, 2014
Rated 5 out of 5Â by SteelBenderMan R-Matte Drops Attic Temp 20 Degrees
Last summer I determined to do something to lower our electric bill. Several options would serve to better insulate and lower the heat transfer into the house. But the best idea seemed to prevent the heat from getting into the attic in the first place. I needed more insulation over the joists and we needed new insulation over the metal duct work on our 30 year old home. If the attic can be made cooler, then it would transfer through the AC ducts and through the ceiling.
I purchased 5 to 10 R-Matte boards at a time and secured them to the under side of the roof rafters. In most cases the end of the 8 foot foam boards met on a rafter. Sometimes I cut a few inches off or even added a 2x3 board to one side or the other of the rafter and secured them. I used 2" wood screws and a 1" plastic washer from roof shingle nails.
Previously the attic would get 120 or more and now stays in the mid 90's. The AC use to run most of the time and when we use it, cycles on and off quickly.
You must have good sofit ventilation and in our case we have ridge vents. The roof decking gets hot and the air below must have a free flow to carry the heat out.
This summer I am adding a secondary vent to our porch area because the attic now needs air flow in and out since the foam boards have isolated the soffits from the attic.
R-Matte is the way to go. If you can do it yourself, do a little each week and enjoy a cooler home.
April 28, 2009
Rated 5 out of 5Â by wagmc easy to use
Several rooms of our 2-story house have walls that are exposed to attic space on the back side.
In several locations, the fiberglass batts had drooped from between the studs, leaving the backside of the drywall exposed to extreme hot and cold of the attic.
I used this product to provide a rigid support to hold the fiberglass in place between the studs, as well as adding an additional R-5 on the attic side of the wall.
It's easy to cut to end on studs or fit odd shapes with a household razor or sharp knife. I attached with roofing nails (with plastic washers) across the attic side of the studs. This product is lightweight, so few nails are needed.
Note: this product acts as a vapor barrier, which you don't want on the (cold) attic side of the wall. Don't seal the edges to make it airtight or you risk water condensing inside the wall cavity.
January 28, 2010
Rated 5 out of 5Â by Soundman Works in a deep freezer's door.
I have a deep freezer out in the garage. The original insulation of the freezer door collected ice and the old inside hard plastic broke apart. I needed away to insulate the freezer door. Between my brother and I. We came up the idea to us a foam insulation board. So I got the insulation board and cut it to size to fit the inside of the door. Then I use the expanding foam around the edges of the insulation board. The expanding foam (when dried) will hold the insulation board in place and also seals out the moister between the insulation board and the freezer door.
It has been over a month now and I have no trouble with the foam insulation board in the freezer door. Also no sweating on the exterior side of the freezer door.
October 25, 2011