Model # RB4812550

Internet #203927012

Store SKU #223310

Reflectix 48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
0716511400030

Reflectix

48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier

  • Great for energy efficiency
  • Works well in attics
  • 48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
$65.84 /each

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Product Overview

Lower your energy bills with Reflectix radiant barrier. A perfect solution for attic insulation, it blocks 94% or more of the radiant heat that normally would be transferred to your attic floor. That keeps the attic cooler and means less air conditioning usage, up to 10% less, for lower utility bills. Attic-mounted duct systems also benefit dramatically from our Reflectix radiant barrier. It is easy to handle, and can be used in cathedral ceilings or as a house wrap behind brick or siding.

  • Product has a class A / class 1 building material fire rating
  • New, heavy duty (polyester woven fabric), radiant barrier energy saving product
  • Convenient 500 sq. ft. size rolls
  • Easy to handle and install
  • Blocks 94%+ of radiant energy from entering your home
  • Dramatically reduces attic surface temperatures resulting in a cooler home
  • Tools required include a utility knife, staple gun, safety glasses and a tape measure
  • No mess and no itchy fibers
  • How much do you need? Let our calculator help:

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13 Questions37 Answers

Customer Questions & Answers

48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier

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6 answers

I currently have fiberglass insullation for my garage door. If this were mounted behind the fiberglass, against the garage door, would it improve it?

This question is from 48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
Asked by
Dallas, Texas
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June 6, 2016
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Answers (6)

Asked by
Massachusetts
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
August 28, 2016
Answer: 
Dear Tom: One more tip -- DO NOT install foam board on your garage door to improve the insulation. Foam board is very flammable and emits toxic gases when it burns. It MUST be covered by an approved thermal barrier in a garage. The standard is 1/2" drywall, which obviously will not work on a garage door. Fiberglass insulation is the most effective solution.

I hope this is helpful.

Mark
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Asked by
east Ttennessee
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July 19, 2016
Answer: 
It probably wouldn't add any benefit, other than keeping the insulation paper from ripping if you put it on the inward side. Then if you use a space heater in the garage, it would reflect heat back inward.
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Asked by
Massachusetts
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July 19, 2016
Answer: 
Dear Tom: No. All radiant barriers require a sealed air gap on one side. This air gap provides almost all of the insulation R value. The shiny plastic has almost no R value.

So if you simply attach or sandwich the reflective barrier between the fiberglass and the garage door, it will make very little difference.

I hope this is helpful.

Mark
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Asked by
Arizona/Oregon
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June 8, 2016
Answer: 
I live in Az part of the year where the sun can be very overpowering to say the least. The house I bought received direct sunlight on the garage door making the garage unbearably hot. I had used fiberglass panels in other homes in the past and was quite pleased. This is the first house that I used the radiant barrier as a first step. I felt it made a significant difference in stopping the radiant heat Read More
I live in Az part of the year where the sun can be very overpowering to say the least. The house I bought received direct sunlight on the garage door making the garage unbearably hot. I had used fiberglass panels in other homes in the past and was quite pleased. This is the first house that I used the radiant barrier as a first step. I felt it made a significant difference in stopping the radiant heat from getting thru to the insulation. I haven't done significant temperature tests but I am convinced for the added cost it was worth it in my situation. The amount that you are buying with this roll will be way more than you need. It would be nice if the barrier was available in smaller quantities. At this point I have several feet left and if I hadn't just insulated my attic with blown in insulation making access throughout the attic very difficult I would be putting it against the rafters as well. Read Less
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Asked by
Texas
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June 7, 2016
Answer: 
No. Your best bet is solid foam sheets, preferably 3/4 or one inch thick. Radiant barrier not really effective with metal.
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June 7, 2016
Answer: 
If you sandwich the radiant barrier between the garage door and the fiber glass you would get minimal performance. Reflectix products are made to be installed with air space on at least one side. The reflectivity on the side with the air space can be up to 96%.
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5 answers

can i use this under a foam insulated metal roof

This question is from 48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
Asked by
kona Hi
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July 18, 2016
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Answers (5)

Asked by
Markleville, IN
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September 19, 2016
Answer: 
This is a radiant barrier application. Respectfully, the responder from Mass. is in error. His statement is confusing two applications, radiant barriers and reflective insulations. Radiant barriers are installed in open attics (typically ventilated) and do not require enclosed air spaces. This type of application reduces radiant heat transfer and is not quantified with an R-value. Reflective insulation Read More
This is a radiant barrier application. Respectfully, the responder from Mass. is in error. His statement is confusing two applications, radiant barriers and reflective insulations. Radiant barriers are installed in open attics (typically ventilated) and do not require enclosed air spaces. This type of application reduces radiant heat transfer and is not quantified with an R-value. Reflective insulation assemblies are installed in cavities that have enclosed air spaces and provide stated R-value benefits. Read Less
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July 20, 2016
Answer: 
You can install the radiant barrier under the foam insulated roof if you leave it exposed. If you cover it the performance will be minimal.
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Asked by
Massachusetts
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July 20, 2016
Answer: 
Dear Arch: NO. Select a non-perforated version of Reflectix or other radiant barrier product. Perforation eliminates the ability to create a sealed air pocket on one side, which is essential for under-roof applications. This air gap provides almost all of the insulation R value, because the thin plastic in the radiant barrier has almost no R value. The perforated version allows air to pass through the Read More
Dear Arch: NO. Select a non-perforated version of Reflectix or other radiant barrier product. Perforation eliminates the ability to create a sealed air pocket on one side, which is essential for under-roof applications. This air gap provides almost all of the insulation R value, because the thin plastic in the radiant barrier has almost no R value. The perforated version allows air to pass through the radiant barrier, defeating the purpose for this application.

With a non-perforated radiant barrier, there are a couple of caveats:

(1) As noted above, you must create a sealed or externally vented air gap between the roof and the radiant barrier. Otherwise, the reflected heat will simply warm the inner surface of the roof and the surrounding air even more, which will flow into your building as it did before -- for no net benefit. If you have a flat unvented metal roof, a sealed air gap is best. Use foil HVAC tape to join panels and seal the edges. DAP 230 sealant is also helpful.

(2) Radiant barriers are not effective in the winter because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warm air inside your building is not radiant. So if you need to heat your building in the winter, additional standard insulation would be more effective. Spray foam or foam board is most effective with R5 per inch, but it is very flammable and must be covered by drywall. If this is not an option, Roxul ComfortBoard is best -- R4 per inch and fire resistant. A version with foil facing is also available by special order from your Home Depot Pro or Customer Service Desk; ask for Roxul Rockboard 60 with foil facing. This provides a finished surface with a better appearance that is easy to clean.

I hope this is helpful,

Mark
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Asked by
Arizona
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July 20, 2016
Answer: 
I don't think this is within the manufacturers suggested uses and this is my opinion only. It should work if you can lay the material without causing slipping hazard and you can lay it without ripping it or destroying it while installing the metal roof. That application may be to cumbersome but could be worth a try. As far as being effective under the roof my vote is yes.
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Asked by
east Ttennessee
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July 20, 2016
Answer: 
It works best if there's an air space between the foil and the foam insulation. I'd use furring strips or small molding strips to provide that air space. Conversely the package instructions say you can cut it and staple directly to the wood between rafters, so maybe it would be effective on foam as well. Best bet, call Reflectix at 800-879-3645 or 765-533-4332 and get a definite answer.
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3 answers

Can this radiant barrier use without insulation?

This question is from 48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
Asked by
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October 9, 2016
I'm placing this radiant barrier in my shed and I don't want to use insulation.
How effective would it be?
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Answers (3)

October 10, 2016
Answer: 
Radiant barrier is used with insulation to reduce the heat flow through attics. The radiant barrier reduces the amount of radient energy coming from the roof into the structure, but has very little R-value so use a good thermal insulation with a radiant barrier.
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Asked by
new england
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October 9, 2016
Answer: 
no sure about effectiveness,but it will brighten the shed up,the stuff is very tough, unlike the first generation a few years ago
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Asked by
Massachusetts
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October 9, 2016
Answer: 
Dear Janna: Independent tests show that radiant barriers are NOT a replacement for standard insulation, e.g. rock wool, foam board, cellulose, etc. A few key points:

(1) Radiant barriers are never more effective than standard insulation. Roxul rock wool, foam board and cellulose are all available at Home Depot, for example, and can be installed by the average homeowner. They provide R-3 to R-5
Read More
Dear Janna: Independent tests show that radiant barriers are NOT a replacement for standard insulation, e.g. rock wool, foam board, cellulose, etc. A few key points:

(1) Radiant barriers are never more effective than standard insulation. Roxul rock wool, foam board and cellulose are all available at Home Depot, for example, and can be installed by the average homeowner. They provide R-3 to R-5 performance per inch of thickness. So in a standard 2x8 attic ceiling, this equals R-24 to R-37.5 if you fill the joist bays with one of these products. Even if you build multiple air pockets, radiant barriers can provide a maximum of R-16.

(2) Radiant barriers have almost no R-value by themselves -- unlike standard insulation. You must build / create a sealed air pocket on one side. This air gap provides almost all of the insulation value. This means that you cannot, for example, simply attach a radiant barrier to the ceiling of your shed.

(3) Radiant barriers are ineffective in cold weather, because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air inside your home does not emit significant radiant (infrared) energy. For example, Reflectix claims R7 in a cathedral ceiling in summer -- but only R1 in winter in the northern USA.

(4) As dust accumulates on the shiny surface, the performance of radiant barriers drops steadily over time -- as shown in three independent studies.

There is one place where a radiant barrier can provide some benefit, in addition to standard insulation: in a hot attic in summer. You can lay a radiant barrier over your existing insulation on the floor of the attic, or staple it to the surface of your rafters -- and this will reduce heat gain into your ceiling by 15% to 25%, depending on the study. Performance will decline as dust accumulates, but this is a cheap and effective upgrade that is easy to install if you live in an area with hot summers and lots of sun.

I hope this is helpful.

Mark
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3 answers

Would this be a good product to use between joists on top of fiberglass insulation underneath radiant heat tubing?

This question is from 48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier
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August 17, 2016
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Answers (3)

Asked by
Massachusetts
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August 26, 2016
Answer: 
Dear Paul:

Well, yes and no. Plastic (PEX) radiant heat tubing does not 'radiate' heat effectively, so you are right to try to maximize the insulation underneath -- to keep the heat above. Fiberglass is a poor choice, however, for insulation. Foam board is more effective and will also help you air-seal the joist bay -- which is almost as important as insulation R value.

Tuff-R polyiso foam board
Read More
Dear Paul:

Well, yes and no. Plastic (PEX) radiant heat tubing does not 'radiate' heat effectively, so you are right to try to maximize the insulation underneath -- to keep the heat above. Fiberglass is a poor choice, however, for insulation. Foam board is more effective and will also help you air-seal the joist bay -- which is almost as important as insulation R value.

Tuff-R polyiso foam board is the best option with R6 per inch of thickness. This will also eliminate the need to install a 'radiant barrier', because Tuff-R includes foil facing. See: TUFF-R Model 193829, Home Depot Internet #100322375 Store SKU #163524 Store SO SKU #621947

When you install it, carefully seal all of the edges and joints to block air leaks. DAP 230 works well for smaller gaps. The 'Windows and Doors' version of Great Stuff spray foam is good for larger gaps. (The cured foam remains flexible to avoid cracks as things expand and contract.) To hold the foam board panels in place while you seal them, insulation installation wires work well. See: Simpson Strong-Tie Model IS16-R100, Home Depot Internet #100375163 Store SKU #594333 Store SO SKU #592854

I hope this is helpful.

Mark
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Asked by
Arizona
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
August 17, 2016
Answer: 
I would call the manufacturer and ask them. I have no experience with that application. Contact info below.
Mailing Address:
Reflectix, Inc., P.O. Box 108, Markleville, IN 46056
Social Media:
www.facebook.com/ReflectixInsulation
www.youtube.com/ReflectixInsulation
Email:
customerservice@reflectixinc.com
Phone:
(765) 533-4332 or (800) 879-3645 (in US / Canada)
Fax:
(765)
Read More
I would call the manufacturer and ask them. I have no experience with that application. Contact info below.
Mailing Address:
Reflectix, Inc., P.O. Box 108, Markleville, IN 46056
Social Media:
www.facebook.com/ReflectixInsulation
www.youtube.com/ReflectixInsulation
Email:
customerservice@reflectixinc.com
Phone:
(765) 533-4332 or (800) 879-3645 (in US / Canada)
Fax:
(765) 533-2327
Read Less
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August 17, 2016
Answer: 
We do not recommend using the radiant barrier between the floor joist under radiant heat tubing. The product we recommend using for this application is the double bubble product that is reflective on both side. This product begins with "BP".
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Customer Reviews

48 in. x 125 ft. Heavy-Duty Perforated Radiant Barrier is rated 4.5 out of 5 by 19.
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Strong material, but needs better quality control Purchased two rolls, both had quality issues where they were wrinkled. Fortunately after stapling it flattened a bit.
Date published: 2016-08-16
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Reduced Attic Temps I purchased this material to reduce the temperature of the attic storage space above my garage. We are in the Pacific Northwest where this sort of barrier is not commonly used. I stapled it to the underside of the rafters. After covering the underside of just one roof plane, facing southwest, I've noticed a measurable reduction in temperature. Before this product, The high attic temps were about 14 degrees higher than the highs outside , sometimes as much as 19 degrees. After installation under just one side of the attic roof, the attic high temps are averaging only 7 degrees above the outdoor temps. What I find more surprising is that the initial temperatures were measured in May and June, with an average high outside of 78, with a maximum of 101. The temperatures with the material installed were measured in August, with an average of 95. Furthermore, the garage attic space is open on one side to the rest of the house attic, including a large south-facing roof plane. I assumed the heat gain from the rest of the space would equalize with the space above the garage, making the barrier ineffective, but the numbers seem to prove otherwise. This product seems quite effective, and was cost effective at about $65 a roll. Installation was straight forward with a staple gun and utility knife, but is definitely a two person job. The large pieces can be unwieldy, particularly in tight spots under the attic roof.
Date published: 2016-08-16
Rated 5 out of 5 by from This stuff really works I have an attic that I can walk into through a door and has a floor. It is basically another room. I store lots of stuff in it. When we cut our large dead pine tree down, it started getting hot and the fan, which came on at 90 degrees, came on every day even thought it was 75 outside. I installed this radiant barrier on most of the two sunny sides under the rafters. I used two rolls. The attic now stays about 5 degrees higher than the outside. A huge success in my mind. This material is tough. They way to staple it every 6 inches, which I did. But it is strong enough that one staple in each corner would hold it. I installed in about 8 foot sections and would staple one corner and then pull it tight and staple another corner. After all four corners were secure, I would do the interior ones. The point is, you can pull hard and it wont' rip or tear. When I wanted to pull some out of a staple to reposition it, you have to pull really hard to remove it. It almost pulls the staple out with the material. My plan is to have my roof guy get rid of the attic fan and install more vents. The fan is only coming on because it gets so hot at the peak. The attic itself is not getting that much hotter than the outside air and that is really the best that anyone can hope for in a non insulated space. The bad part is that this takes a long time to install. Not because it is difficult, but rather because there is just a lot of area and putting up about 35 pieces at even 10 minutes each is 6 hours. I didn't time it, but I spent several days, several hours per day, doing it. If my goal was to keep my house cool and I didn't have stuff in my attic. I think adding insulation to the attic floor would be much easier. But that was not my goal as the house was fine temperature wise. One more interesting point. At one time when I had half of the south-east wall covered I was standing next to the uncovered roof stapling a section. The hot roof felt hot on my face. I moved a couple of feet so I was protected by the radiant barrier and I no longer felt the heat of the roof. This stuff works. Touch it and it is hot, but it doesn't radiate heat so it keeps things inside the attic from getting hot. In other words, it works.
Date published: 2016-10-11
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Noticable diffrence I installed this insulation on my roof under metal panels and my attic has reduced in temperature by atleast a few degrees. Was very easy to install and very duable.
Date published: 2016-08-09
Rated 4 out of 5 by from a pain to install, but works 1) The material is really tough and stands up to the abuse of installation. 2) We installed it in long sections (4x26'), but I feel like it would be easier to install in 4x4' or 4x8' sections. 3) Has dramatically dropped the temp in our attic on the first day of completed installation. 4) Expect to use more staples and duck tape than you assume. (we used duck tape, not the foil tape. I'm sure that makes the the boogie man, but come on...) 5) I used the opportunity to also add some insulation over/around the ac duct work in the attic and fix a few other things that otherwise go unattended. --Our home is a smaller 2 story house built in the mid 1980s in Texas. We've already noticed the comfort level of the upstairs improving.
Date published: 2013-06-19
Rated 5 out of 5 by from worth the money Decent price, works well, not user friendly in big pieces, use some good duct tape instead of the foil tape. I have a 12 degree difference with and without this product.
Date published: 2015-08-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Way better than the stuff I bought on ebay I purchased a roll off of ebay and needed more to finish the attic, so I went to Home Depot and purchased this roll. The difference was remarkable! when they say HEAVY DUTY they mean it, the ebay roll was very thin I would guess half as thin as this one. I should have used this product from the beginning.
Date published: 2016-03-11
Rated 2 out of 5 by from CHECK IT FOR DEFECTS!! I bought 6 of these rolls. 5 were ok, the 6th had MAJOR defects. Unfortunately I had no choice but to us it as I couldn't wait a week to do siding. I'll post a picture of the defective stuff. The plastic matrix was great - the reflectivity was only half applied - a typical mfr defect for this type of stuff. Great stuff, nice, strong, easy to use - but buyer beware!!!
Date published: 2014-07-30
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