Rated 3.9 out of 5 by 7
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by larry2011 Not a recomended buy
This water heater in my opinion was a very large waste of money. Not only is it not user friendly but it only works 1/4 of the time depending on your water and gas pressure. The never ending hot water is not the problem, getting the water hot in the first place is the problem. You spend more time trying to get it to turn on than you do using it. We had to install a larger gas line and still have problems getting it to run consistently. Also, if you are looking for a break in energy savings you are wrong. You end up spending more money because you waste energy trying to get it to work properly. Save your money and buy a standard larger hot water heater if you need more water. Wish we had!!
January 2, 2011
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by LUCY Great product
I actually ordered the wrong type and had to exchange it for the interior heater.
The goodies: Water temp setting insures no one ever gets burned by hot water. Attic installation and no danger of water leaks to damage ceiling. Reduced utility bills. I am most happy with the whole operation.
Downside: Most 'authorized' plumbers charge an exorbitant amount to install, I had a much better price from my regular plumber and he did a great job in one day.
December 26, 2011
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Pmoyer44 Tankless Gas Water Heater
II installed this water heater this weekend. It was not too complicated. Look at page 22 of the Use & Care Manual to determine the copper, fittings, black pipe, shut offs and vent kit you will need to buy. The vent kit (direct horizontal) is usually found next to the location of the water heaters. I purchased the following to complete my installation:
10' of 3/4" copper, 3/4 threaded brass hose bib, 3/4" sweated copper "T", (5) 3/4" thread sweat on copper fittings, (4) 3/4" sweat on copper elbows, 3/4" in-line ball water shutoff valve, 3/4" brass/copper nipple, (3) 3/4" black pipe nipples about 5" long, 3/4 black pipe "T",(2) 3/4 to 3/4 water supply flex connectors 18" to 24" long, 5/8 gas line 36" long with 3/4 to 3/4 and an extra fitting 3/4 to 5/8 with 1/2" tap, 3/4" black pipe cap (for sediment trap), T2 pipe dope, solder, flux, map gas, emery cloth, Horizontal vent kit, vent cap and wiring to provide 120 volt (2amp). Good luck.. this will take 2 days and you will save$2,500 over a plumbers quote (@ around 3,700.).
January 31, 2011
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by greenmoe125 8.4 GPM 180,000 BTU TANKLESS GAS WATER HEATER is an excellent buy
I had recently purchased this unit due to my hatred of the traditional tank that stayed on all day. This unit is great for a two and a half bath home. Endless hot water no more cold showers!!!!!!
December 4, 2011
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by cathissa Received a 6.6 GPM
Ordered two of these & the units I received were 6.6 GPM and not 8.4 GPM. Trying to work it out now with Home Depot. Hopefully it will come to a satisfactory resolution.
November 29, 2011
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Pmoyer44 Tankless Hot Water Heater
This is a great product, but you have to be willing to read all the instructions and following them. Unless you are a plumber, you must take all the instructions literally. Don't assume that any of the recommended installation instructions are overkill. One of the most important considerations is the venting kit and intake air and gas flue. This unit's manufacturer's venting system must be used, unaltered. The vent kit contains the required mechanical elements to vent direct to the exterior. Follow the mechanical code available at home depot (in laymans format , spiral bound "safe home" code check), consider the btu rating. Check your gas w.c." before you buy the unit. Most homes have 3/4" supply and >4 w.c." (1 psi = 28 w.c."), but get a gauge for about $10 to check [you may need some black pipe fittings to attach the gauge to your gas line]. We all do complicated things in our daily lives. This may be one of them for you, but if you try, you will save several thousand dollars. If you have trouble modifying your water and gas lines, read up. Black pipe is for Gas. Copper fittings are for water. Don't use galvanized pipe for water. Don't use copper for gas (brass may be ok, but it is marked for gas use). Practice soldiering with copper, but use map gas and a nozzle and hose kit (don't use propane, especially with a nozzle connected directly to a tank, it does not get hot quick enough and will very heat base on the angle of the nozzle to the tank). Heat the fitting, not the pipe. Use emery cloth to clean the contact area of the fittings and pipe, apply paste flux and use solder with flux core. The manually is very complete and you must read it all. It will show you the assemblies you must create to get your water and gas line connected. Don't plan to get this all installed in a few hours. It took me 3 hours to revamp my water, just to get my old water heater out of the closet it was in. I then spent several hours reading the installation instructions. You may want to put a sheet of plywood on the wall to mount the unit on. This is discussed in the instructions. You may want to check your water pressure. I installed a new pressure regulator and a pressure gauge on the hose bib the instructions indicate you should install to drain the tankless water heater. Make sure you have at least 40 psi.
The following are some of the items I needed to purchase to install the water heater: Several black pipe nipples (around 7"), 1 tee, one cap, 90 deg elbows, Manufacturer's Vent kit, 8' of 3/4" copper pipe, (3) 3/4" copper nipples, 3/4" hose bib, 3/4" to 3/4" flex gas line 36" (7/8"o.d.), adapter 3/4 to 5/8" inside 1/2" tap, fem. 3/4" to fem. 3/4" flex water connector (acts like a union), map gas, emery cloth, paste flux, solder (flux core), 3/4" fitting copper T, (3)-3/4" sweet on copper threaded fitting... you may need other items, just read the manual and draw it out on paper before you go to home depot. When in doubt get more items than you need and save the gas and the planet. Return the stuff you bought just in case you could not read your own schematic. Good luck.
February 18, 2011
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by FeedbackForYou Loving every minute of it!
Because I switched from a conventional water heater with a standing pilot, this was a bit more of a project than I had planned on. If this describes you, consider that you must use a venting system rated for this appliance, it will require a 3/4" gas supply, and will also require a nearby outlet (preferable GFCI). My install went nicely, and the work required to install the venting, larger gas piping, and outlet...along with a fairly substantial change in my water piping, was well rewarded! I LOVE this water heater, it's nearly silent, and the heated water output is amazingly instant.
As I shopped, I considered buying the outdoor mounted unit. I thought the savings from burning outdoor air would add value. Since the only one I could get locally was an indoor unit, I was VERY glad that was the one I got. The combustion air comes from outdoors anyway through the concentric vent system, and now if we have intense cold, my water pipes are safely in my basement where they will not freeze. Knowing that, I cannot think of a single good reason to install the unit outdoors.
Some things to consider about your home before using a tankless water heater. First, if you don't have a 3/4 or larger gas main to your house...forget this product. Secondly, if you have low water flow, either from 1/2" piping, or from low pressure, this may not be for you. I researched several hours before making my purchase, and saw several people complaining about issues where the unit would run intermittantly, low gas pressure, or low water flow will absolutly cause this. The remedy for low water flow is simple, add a booster pump and tank, then you will have the flow you need to start the unit. If you have a small gas main, and insist on having one of these, I'd contact your utlity before installation, to make sure they can provide larger supply if needed.
For the rest of us...most homes will have ample gas supply and water flow to make this work without problems. Keep in mind that the nature of this appliance is that it heats water on demand, rather than storing it....that's cool beacuse it saves the energy we used to waste keeping a tank hot...but since it requires a minimun flow to allow the burner to run, drawing hot water at a trickle simply will not work. I don't use hot water that way, but if you do, now you know.
As I'm writing this, it is day one of operation, my wife has been in the shower for 20 minutes. :) I'm guessing it may be another half hour before she has tired of the endless stream of steady tempered water. Some of the savings in energy might not be realized at our home for a while, as we bask in the enjoyment of hot showers that don't end with luke warm water! (Then we'll get a gas bill and return to reality)
If your home has a circulating system to keep the pipes warm....the flow rate of the circulating pump probably won't be enough to turn on the tankless heater. If you MUST have preheated pipes, you may want to add a small water heater, something like the kind used in an RV, just for that purpose.
Last thought, my wife just got out of the shower and said "That's wierd, the water temperatuer never changed, I'm so used to fiddeling with the fawcet all during the shower to keep the temperature I like." Well...that settles it for me, if she loves it, I double love it!
February 6, 2011