Rated 3.3 out of 5 by 11
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by homefixer18 Water-based polyurethane better than oil based.
Almost no odor. Dries super fast and looks beautiful! . Had never refinished hardwood floors before. Followed recommendation to use oil based poly...BIG mistake!! The fumes were horrendous and made us sick. Even after the floor had dried, the smell was horrible. We applied the water based over the dried oil based. It dried within an hour and locked in the stench of the oil based application. Was able to apply 5 coats of water based within 5 hours because it dries so quickly. And I love the look of my floors now...they look warm and soft and natural rather than having the orange glow that was left when the oil based finally dried. I will never use oil based poly again when refinishing my remaining hardwood floors. Loved this product!!!
September 2, 2014
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by Pabloesguapo Excellent... So far.
Excellent spreadability. Very easy to feather. Dried quickly. No odors. Color dries clearer than oil based polyurethane, which gives a yellowish hue.
Upon application, this product is 1,000% better than the oil based products.
I have read the other reviews, and it seems like durability is the major downside to most people. We'll see. I applied 3 coats in one afternoon. I will give it proper curing time, move in and usage time. Then I will update.
November 29, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by JoeC 14 years and counting.....
When my wife and I began our hybrid log home build back in 1999, we gutted a standard 1700 sq. ft. ranch and started over. We raised the roof pitch,moved rooms around,and finished the whole inside of the home in a combination of knotty pine T&G 1X6 on all interior walls, and also T&G log siding on all inner faces of the exterior walls, plus exposed log pillars and square timber beams for the support structure. When it came time to finish the wood(which we did BEFORE installing it, to eliminate witness lines when the wood dried out in winter and shrank) I had seen enough dark pine walls in basements over the years to know I did NOT want the look of darkly yellowed,dated pine walls of the fifties and sixties. The only way to achieve this, as wood naturally darkens with age and UV rays exposure, so you don't need to add more darkening by using a spirit-based finish that also darkens with age, was to use a water based polyurethane. Parks was what was available at the time at HD, and that is what we still use to this day. It dries fast, can be recoated within an hour or so, can be brushed, sprayed (worked GREAT in my HVLP gravity feed gun with NO thinning, on all my arch- topped interior doors) and IT DID NOT ADD the typical yellowing with age. To this day, the interior walls of our home stayed relatively nice and bright, the natural aging of the wood has definitely darkened over time, especially where the sun can get to surfaces such as stairways, skylight wells, window trim,etc. But the poly has held up great and adds to the easy cleaning when the walls need washing or dusting. One thing I might add, which is true of ANY water-based POLY product (this does not mean water based laquer) is that if you try to sand between coats, and break through the previous layer, the recoat will highlight the areas where the sanding broke through, and your finished project will appear splotchy. The best way to finish raw wood with a water based product is to let the raw wood grain raise up BEFORE a sanding sealer coat by wetting the area with a spray bottle of water and wiping it off, let the wood dry, then LIGHTLY sand the raised grain level and then applying the poly. the resulting minimal grain raising after that can be lightly scuffed down with very fine (I use 400 grit wet/dry paper-NO steel wool! using steel wool with water finishes will cause rust spots in your project!) sandpaper and the recoat process can begin. My way to give wood clarity is to first apply the sanding sealer, then use the gloss finish 1 or two coats(this is for vertical surfaces, not floors) and as a final coat use a satin coat to cut the glare of gloss but let the grain show through without a milky appearance...using satin with too many coats "muddies" the grain because of the "flatting" agents in the poly to cut back on the reflective nature of crystal clear poly,or any finish for that matter. As another reviewer stated, you should not use ANY type of petroleum based product before putting a water based finish on....the water based finish needs to adhere to raw wood for the film to harden and bind to the wood fibers and accept further coats for wear resistance.
October 13, 2012
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Plamen Easily Scratches
I sanded down my oak wood floors, put 4 coats of this product following the instructions. I left it cure for over a week before moved anything on top of it, and started noticing scratches all over right away. I made a claim with the manufacturer and they refunded my money. But I still have to redo everything again. I wish I read some reviews before I bought it...
May 16, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by badbert Great product.
I purchased a 86 year old Arts and Craft style bungalow. The house was completely floored in Quarter-Sawed White Oak. After removing 1800 square foot of carpeting, we found that the floor was in rough shape. there were spots that we had to epoxy. And spots that we had to fill in (floor registers). We expected a rustic look at best. We began the 3 week long process of sanding the floors down to bare wood and then flat. After sanitizing the whole house we applied the first coat of The matching sanding sealer. I remember how excited we were looking at just the sanding sealer. But after we put the first coat of this stuff on, we were floored (pardon the pun)! As the milky white liquid dried it became crystal clear. We were walking on it 40 minutes later. And recoated after an hour. The thing about this water based poly, is that you have to put it on very thin. AND YOU DON'T SAND BETWEEN COATS! If you recoat within a 6 hour window, it has a chemical adhesion built in. You wait an hour and recoat. Then 90 minutes for every coat after that. We put 6 coats down the first day (came back within 5 hours), and put 10 coats on before we gave up. 16 coats in two days. It stayed a little milky looking for the first few hours. But it got even clearer over the next few days. It dried to a diamond hard crystal clear finish. The floor is completely level from on corner to the other. We have received hundreds of compliments over the last three years. This product turned what we expected to be a rustic floor, into a polished piece of glass. It does not have a scuff or wear mark anywhere including the steps, they are as beautiful now as the day we did them. When people ask who did our floors, they don't believe our answer!
September 28, 2012
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Koatree Nice finish and easy to use
I have used this product primarily to apply to furnature I design and Build. I apply one coat after sanding to raise the grain and allow it to dry over night. I then lightly sand and apply 3 more coats allowing at least 1.5 hours between. I again allow overnight drying and apply 3 more coats. I use a good foam brush to apply. I have refinished an Oak floor and it turned out great. I believe the longer you let it set the harder the surface becomes. I do not wear shoe in my house so the finish has held up just fine. Rust-Oleum makes great products and this is no exception. I noticed that the other review writer used an oil base finish on his floor before applying this wter base product; no where in the instructions does it say you can do that. As far as I know oil and water don't mix and that is why his finish just wore off as he claims. Some people just can't follow instuctions!
September 27, 2012
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by redguy Vaste of time and money
After 3-4 weeks floor looks even worse then before applying.
Even a feather can scratch this.
October 8, 2013
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by phonyfaux great non yellowing poly for economical price
i really like ease of use..non yellowing and inexpensive
August 24, 2013