Model # 241352

Internet #202056337

Store SKU #744280

Rust-Oleum Parks 1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Finish and Preservative
0020066164041

Rust-Oleum Parks

1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Finish and Preservative

  • One pour = 60 coats of varnish
  • Ideal as a waterproof protective finish for tables and bar tops
  • Use to encase almost anything coins, pictures, shells and more
$2498 /each

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Product Overview

Achieve an ultra-thick, ultra-glossy, waterproof finish instantly with Rust-Oleum Parks Super Glaze Pour-On Finish and Preservative. Just one pour of this crystal-clear epoxy is as thick as 60 coats of varnish. Perfect for bar tops, kitchen islands and more.

California residents: see   Proposition 65 information

  • Pour on finish and preservative in ultra-thick high-gloss, crystal-clear epoxy that provides maximum durability and see-through
  • Ideal for furniture, tabletops, bars, game boards, clocks, plaques and ceramics
  • Clear gloss finish
  • Covers 6.4 sq. ft.
  • Cleans up with mineral spirits
  • Resists water, heat and chemicals
  • Pours on for ease of use
  • Online Price includes Paint Care fee in the following states: CA, CO, CT, MN, OR, RI, VT

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Customer Questions & Answers

I used this product yesterday and it bubbled horribly. What can I do about this. I surley dont want to sand it all off.

If necessary what can i do to prevent this from happening again.
Asked by: Kat1958
You didn't mention the surface you were coating, however I learned the hard way that porous wood surfaces have to be sealed properly first. If you don't, you'll end up with never-ending bubbles as the epoxy seeps into the grain of the wood, no matter how many times you it it with the heat gun or torch. Sanding the surface smooth after curing, then adding a second application does a decent job of hiding the bubbles, but if you look closely they'll still be there.
Answered by: JimMc
Date published: 2017-05-31

I am sanding this nice wood coffee table l. I want the to be a yellow high gloss. What paint should I use first.

Asked by: Sid
Yellow would necessitate an old-school finish lie Amber lacquer or Shellac.
Answered by: Victor
Date published: 2017-05-04

Can this product with stand a hot summer day? I tried something similar a few years ago and the f...

Can this product with stand a hot summer day? I tried something similar a few years ago and the flys stuck to it in the summer. I want something like this for an outdoor table.
Asked by: Monica
To Rust-Oleum Support: The product information pages for West System epoxy (amine cured epoxy formulated for outdoor uses including boatbuilding) are full of warnings about UV exposure - they recommend a finish coat of two-part linear polyurethane for UV protection. See http://www.westsysteminternational.com/en/support/finish-coatings.
Answered by: CaptJackSparrow
Date published: 2017-04-24

I applied this to a white surface, after 12 hrs it's still yellowish, will it dry clear?

Asked by: LV
i used mine in white paint over a granite counter top and it came out clear no yellowing. and it was a satin paint I think
Answered by: ileana
Date published: 2017-05-13
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Customer Reviews

1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Finish and Preservative is rated 3.6 out of 5 by 72.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from If you have a bar top and want a creative way to make it pop look no further...put away your fear... If you have a bar top and want a creative way to make it pop look no further...put away your fears, follow the instructions, and get to it!! Great stuff... granite no more. the only issue is that the stuff smells like sweaty jock straps until it dries.. you have been warned.
Date published: 2017-03-10
Rated 2 out of 5 by from This product is for small projects in my opinion. Did a concrete counter top with an exposed aggr... This product is for small projects in my opinion. Did a concrete counter top with an exposed aggregate. Counter tops turned out awesome and wanted a product that was going to protect as well as be shiny as the wife put it. Put it on and i had a lot of area with inconsistant levels and areas that just plain looked awful. Foolishly i thought i could cover the imperfections with a poly coating. Big mistake! Poly made it look worse. Stripped everything and started over. Again, it turned out with just to many imperfections. My recommendations is to not pour it as thick as recommended. Put it on real thin. The problem is that if you pour it thick, you create a ridge in the epoxy with every stroke with the squeegee. Those ridges dont go away, even with a lot of heat. I ended up putting a second coat, as i am just too frustrated been with out a kitchen. The second coat went on better as i followed my own advice. A thinner coat allows you to go over it more times with the squeegee leaving fewer ridges and lines. Unfortunately, using this product without any color revealed every imperfection from the first coat. Final suggestions: small projects only, if doing furniture, dont try and do the tops and sides at the same time, keep everything flat, use thin multiple coats with large areas or dont do it, follow the temperature range precisely (70 to 80). Only do this with a lot of light, natural light is far better as you can see the mixing process much better than artificial light.
Date published: 2017-02-04
Rated 3 out of 5 by from What instructions and videos don't tell you.... USE A LARGE SPREADING TOOL (Larger than your work surface) I recently tried applying this product to a wooden surface that I joined together. Had some monkey pod that I turned into a tabletop and some walnut that I did the same thing to. After 2 thin-layer coats, I noticed that I finally sealed the wood, as it was very porous and had lots of air bubbles popping up. I read the instrucions several times and watched a few videos but kept noticing that my surface was very unlevel and imperfect. All instructions and videos kept saying to use a plastic spreading tool or squeegee, but WHAT THEY DON'T TELL YOU (and I found this out on my own after the 4th coat of frustration) IS TO USE A SPREADING TOOL THAT IS LARGER THAN THE SURFACE YOU WANT TO COAT WITH EPOXY. Meaning my 16 inch wide surface needed a 17 inch wide spreading tool. Smaller tools leave ridges on the sides after they have plowed through the liquid resin that has been poured, and the larger tool smoothed all those ridges out. Working in a dust-free environment is also key, but more difficult to obtain. This stuff works very well, but it is very fickle. You have to work quickly, but patiently.
Date published: 2017-03-18
Rated 3 out of 5 by from In the end i can live with it. I bought this product for my bar top that I had built about a year ago. I lightly sanded down the polyurethane that was on there. Then wiped with alcohol.I made sure the top was leveled. When I poured the SG on I spread it with a 3" plastic putty knife. I used a propane torch to get the air bubbles out. I couldn't get it perfectly smooth so I was hoping it will self level itself. After it dryed to the touch there were dimples in numerous spots. So I lightly sanded it and put another coat on. Dimples still appeared but in differents spots. So I bought another box and recoated two more times. Each coat looked a little better then the previous but the dimples were still very noticeable. So instead of putting on another coat and waiting 72 hours and risking another disappointing result I decided to dish out $35 for sand paper and polish. Then spend the day sanding down the SG to make it as even as possible. I started with hand dry sanding with 60 grit, focusing on the dimples and high spots. Then I used a sander and wet sanded 80, 150, 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000. It felt smooth as glass. Then I applied a automotive rubbing and polish compound. Lastly I applied a car wax. Its not as shiny as straight pouring SG on but its very close. There are still minor imperfections but i can live with it. Overall its not a bad product. It cures like it said it would. It's way better than polyurethane. But it didn't self level evenly as much as i would have liked. After spending extra money and putting in some elbow grease I'm satisfied with the result.
Date published: 2016-12-28
Rated 5 out of 5 by from turned out beautiful I hand glued almost $50 worth of pennies to our shower floor and had never used epoxy. I was nervous. I read and re-read the instructions. I brought a space heater in to keep room warm. I mixed properly. Timed it, added a minute . We poured it and smoothed it. We didn't need the heat gun at all. . The few bubbles that came up popped on their own. Then we walked away. It looks amazing. We were most concerned with it being slippery, but it isn't! Gorgeous copper penny shower floor. DON'T CHEAT ON MIXING TIME
Date published: 2016-05-05
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Was really happy with the finished product, though I had to go through a bit of trial and error t... Was really happy with the finished product, though I had to go through a bit of trial and error to get it right. Two things to remember, seal any porous surfaces prior to application (wood, etc.) and don't skimp on the product. My first attempt I had exactly the recommended amount for my project size and ended up with a horrible, bumpy finish because that doesn't take into account how much you will lose over the sides while smoothing it out. a second application with an extra pint more than the first and the coat was excellent.
Date published: 2017-05-31
Rated 4 out of 5 by from I have used this product on 2 occasions for the tops of my custom wood cooler boxes covering bott... I have used this product on 2 occasions for the tops of my custom wood cooler boxes covering bottle caps on one and pictures on another. Ease of use is great, very easy to work with as long as you have everything level and use a blowtorch to remove any bubbles. There are 2 drawbacks to this stuff.....1) the photos I inserted under this stuff seemed to take all the color out of the photos within minutes. They look like they were over exposed now. So there is some chemical reaction with the photos. 2) if you plan on using this in direct sunlight the product gets very flexible to the touch. I used (3) boxes on my bottle cap area (approx. 1/4" thick) and after sitting in the 75 degree sun for 2 hours you can actually push lightly on it and see it flex. So this needs to stay out of the sunlight and heat. Otherwise i am completely happy with the ease of use.
Date published: 2017-06-05
Rated 2 out of 5 by from This had so much potential I made an island for my kitchen and wanted this glaze to put over a wood top. I was going to go with granite but I thought this would be a cheaper option. Well I guess you get what you pay for. This did not self level. Also left permanent intentions from a vase even after leaving it to cure for over a week. This looks great from far but I know the dents are there which drive me insane.
Date published: 2017-01-30
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