Rated 4.2 out of 5 by 128
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Glenn What a Difference!! Worth the time.
I have a rental where the kitchen cabinets are over 30 years old. The base unit is 5' long and the upper cabinets are 8' long. I have a total of 10 cabinet doors. Not a large kitchen unit and the doors are pretty flat. The draws are in very good condition and rolls in & out with one finger. Upper cabinets are in good shape too. Everything is all wood not the composite pressure wood. So I hated to replace them.
Saw this kit and decided I'd give it a try, if it didn't work I'll replace the cabinets. The whole project took me about 7 days to complete doing about 3-5 hours per day. I also wanted to change the location of the door knobs that were in the middle of the doors. The base cabinet wood doors were in poor shape with the finish coming off and de-laminating a little in the corner. First I had to fix the wood laminated doors with glue and clamps. Next I sanded the base doors since the finish was coming off. The the upper cabinets over the stove had a lot of grease on them.
I used a palm sander to sand everything to get the grease off then used the kit deglosser and scrub pad to go over everything. They give you a lot so don't be shy in using a lot. I let this dry over night and then put on the bond coat. (the color I used was Rustic) This process took awhile and I let it dry over night. I also did the inside of the doors with the bond coat. Also did the cabinet frames on the wall and base unit.
The next day I put the second bond coat on and it started looking a lot nicer. Again I let it dry over night. Next was the decorative glaze. They give you plenty of glazing cloth so use it. This process was a little tricky in that you had to wipe the glaze at the same pressure so it looks uniform and go with the grain of the wood. The glaze makes a big difference in that it brings out the wood grain. You could probably do this 2 times to make it darker but I only did it once.
Now comes the real tricky part putting on the protective top coat. Read a few reviews where it didn't work out for them. Before I tried it on the cabinet door I had a piece of sample pine that I had done while doing the process. I tried using a good stain 2" brush on the sample. Then I tried a satin polyurethane that I had on the sample. The kit top coat look better than the satin.
I also tried the 2" foam brush and found that was better than the good stain brush I had used. Because the top coat dries so fast, I decided to us a 3" foam brush to do the flat part of the doors and a 1" foam brush to do the small edge of the doors. You really have to put on the top coat very fast and only have time to make one brush stroke count. Then I used the 1" foam brush to do the edge again very quickly using 1 stroke. Do not try to go back over it or you'll mess it up. I let it dry over night and then I sanded it very lightly and applied a 2nd top coat to help cover anything that I might have missed.
The whole process came out a lot better than what I expected. I kept the same hinges but cleaned them up and then bought new door knobs. I am very happy with the results. It's very time consuming and you can't rush it but it was worth it.
August 5, 2016
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by Susan DO NOT USE TOP COAT IN KIT
All went well up till applying the top coat. Loved how the kitchen looked after applying bond coat. Then I used the protective top coat and ruined all the cabinet boxes. It is impossible to apply. Like watered down school glue. Leaves lumps and streaks. And I am no painting rooky. Boxes dried for a full 24 hours before applying top coat. Thankfully I found a thread where others were having the exact same problem. The "pro" said to sand off the top coat and use minwax water based polyurethane. so even rustoleum says the top coat sucks. Why continue to sell it?? IT WILL RUIN ALL YOUR HOURS OF LABOR. Just buy some deglosser, cabinet paint, and polyurethane. Done.
August 22, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Eyvette SOOOOOO HAPPY!!!
my awesomely fantastic Mom and I completed this project in two weekends. Yes it took longer than what the video indicated but it was so so worth it! I couldn't have been more pleased with the outcome! I did read the other reviews so I knew to add 2 tablespoons of water to step number 3 and it went on smoothly without a problem. I keep going in my kitchen turning the lights on and off and saying to myself I did this!
May 6, 2016
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by NotSuggestForLongTermUse A year later and all the protection wore off
I redid the cabinets about a year ago and all the clear protective top coat wore off around the handles and the paint has major signs of wear! Since I opted to paint and stain the only option is to redo the whole door. The damage is noticeable on 9 of the 16 cabinets I restored. I wish there was an option to upload pictures. I would suggest deglazing areas of high usage every 6 months.
August 5, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by SJR Before and After
I did the cabinets myself and did the top first then the bottom. I started last Saturday and finished this Saturday 3/13/2016. It went very smooth and love the results and picked Cocoa for the color.
March 13, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Lena Things to watch out for
1. Very time consuming
2. The glaze... make sure you have some artistic skills if you decide to put it on, otherwise you will end up with cabinets looking like a film of wiped dirt stuck on them ALL OVER. The only way to remove the glaze (if you don't like it, is to paint over it. I had to do it a few times in certain areas). Also to make the wood look distressed I applied a good amount of glaze and then used a sqeegy to wipe it down, turned out great on those big flat surfaces.
3. All of this stuff is water based, which means it dries off fast, but it doesn't mean it's not toxic. Wear a good gas mask, not just a dust mask. The final coat you're supposed to "close doors and vents". So make sure you have a mask on you.
4. Don't be afraid to use other colors than just the whites or browns since you are going to put so much work into it that you might as well make a real change to your kitchen.
5. If I had to do it again I would use a roller where possible for that fist coat of paint because my left hand is about to fall off after using a 2" brush on about 100 sqf of cabinets.
6. Make sure to apply A LOT of the de-glazing liquid. I don't think I used enough and in some places when I was rubbing off the glaze, the paint actually came off. I also had a lot of the de-glazing liquid left so I know I haven't used enough of it.
7. It's a lot of work, enjoy!!! :)
March 7, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by denali Amazing Results!
I amazing thoroughly amazed by the results of this product! I purchased the Rustic color kit for my bathroom vanities. I figured i would start there before deciding to do my kitchen cabinets. This was a very easy project and well worth $80 to refinish both vanities and i actually have a can of bond and a can of glaze left over. The only thing i did different after reading multiple reviews about the struggles with the top coat is purchase Miniwax Polyurethane and use that instead. It was a good decision and very easy to apply with no worries of build up or drying to fast. Now that ive got some practice with the vanities i will be doing the kitchen cabinets as well!!! I will include some pics but honestly the pics dont do the finish justice! Looks so much better in person!
January 25, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Lm4767 Cabinets look brand new
Took me a few days to get done. Exhausting but well worth it. Picked the cottage blue and I glazed it. Looks like a blue grey ish. Inexpensive way to upgrade your cabinets.
March 7, 2016