Rated 3.3 out of 5 by 113
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by TheFranchise Gearing on the motor is Junk
I bought this saw to do light work like cutting down plywood and MDF for small projects around the house. Yesterday while working on my latest project the saw started to make a terrible grinding noise. I took the motor apart and found that the small gear they use to knock down the power was stripped out. Now they want over a hundred and fourty dollars for the part to replace the Armature assembly. Seem's crazy that such a small piece could cost almost half of what the whole saw was new. My recommendation is that you look somewhere and spend a little bit more money on a quality saw. Learn from my mistake and do not buy this saw. It broke after very light use, I would hate to see how quickly it falls apart if you use it on a regular basis.
September 9, 2013
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 Bevel Locking Lever Washer Broke During First Use.
Got this as a gift on July 25, 2012. Put it together on July 26, 2012. Saw went together nicely as there are very few parts to assemble. Plugged the saw in to make sure it ran and checked the bevel (after removing the foam support). Everything seemed fine and the saw was acceptable.
Today, July 28, 2012 I actually went to use the saw. When I unlocked the bevel locking lever, I heard a snap and felt the washer break. The washer fell out in two pieces under the saw.
The lock washer needs to be made of a different material. It should not have broken. I have yet to even cut anything on the saw. I was just setting things up to make my first cut.
I believe the saw has potential, but when one of the main features of the saw breaks before you even get a chance to cut anything with it, I am not sure how good a product it is. From other reviews, this appears to be a big issue.
Without this washer, the motor/blade freely moves in the saw as it cannot be locked into position.
July 28, 2012
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by cadyshackbob very nice saw, great improvements over my 10 year old one
my 10 year old saw(same model) finally died and I couldn't find a better deal then this one. brand new saw,shipped to the house for the same price a new motor would have cost shipped to the house. many, many upgrades over the last one. I was blown away with the new upgrades. the wheels are a little smaller which made it harder to move over bare ground so I swapped them out with the old ones and now it rolls nice.Great saw, I've used a couple of times and I'm impressed with the power. If you're undecided, I recommend you buy it, (3 year warranty). How can you go wrong !
April 14, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by papaK Great sa
This is my second ryobi table saw. I upgraded to this model after about 5 years of using the cheaper one. The cheaper one I actually gave to a buddy who was getting into wood working. This saw is strong and great for on site jobs. I am a dyi guy but I hd taken a contract to build cabinets, walls and finishing touches for a shop. This saw was great. Mobility to the site was easy along with set up was quick and easy. Other contractors commented on how it was perfect for the job. It was like having the workshop on site. The adjustments are durable and easy to use. Great saw.
February 24, 2013
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Talons Perfect for MY needs (And Maybe yours too)!
Okay, this is my review of the Ryobi RTS31 Portable Table Saw with Roll around Stand.
The BEST thing about the saw (for me anyway) is the ability to fold the stand up and roll the saw back up against the wall when I am done with it. My ‘shop’ is my driveway and garage. And when I am done for the day, everything has to be put away in order to accommodate the normal things in driveways and garages, automobiles. The stand allows for the saw to be rolled out of the garage, set up where I want it to be, used, then broken down and rolled back into the garage and up against the wall out of the way.
The stand itself is pretty good. Made of sturdy metal (steel, I believe) and has a nice scissors operation. The saw stays sideways until the legs are deployed and then you rotate the saw and stand into position using a handle and the leg of the stand. Since the saw is 65 lbs, you have to be slow and careful doing this, but it is NOT difficult.
You must spend some time setting this saw up. By this I do not mean putting it together, which was simple, I mean adjusting it; ZEROing it and making sure things are how they are supposed to be BEFORE you use it. I have read two reviewers who broke their pressure washer for the blade bevel lock and two others that say when the blade starts, that the bevel angle jumps from 0 to 5 degrees (or more). I do NOT know yet if I have that problem, but if I do, I will return the saw. The reason I am not sure is because my bevel lock did not break. I thought I set it to ZERO, but when I checked the wood it was definitively ‘off’ and then I checked the bevel indicator, and it was sitting at 10 degrees. I believe I ‘thought’ I zeroed it, but in fact did not. I will check this tonight. ASSUMING that it was ‘operator error’, I will continue with this saw.
(AFTER CHECKING THAT NIGHT) It was not operator error at all. What it was for both parties, the broken bevel lock washer is on the RTS30, not the RTS31. On the RTS31, they changed the locking washer type. How do I know? Well, that is why my saw was jumping from ZERO. The bevel lock needed adjusting to be tighter. How many people think the saw is “Ready to go” out of the box? (C’mon, raise those hands, I know I did!) Guess what? It is not. You have to setup and adjust it like you would ANY saw.
The sliding miter table works great, EXCEPT that every now and again a piece of debris gets under the table and on the slides and makes it bind or wobble up and down. I have gotten around this by applying a slight downward pressure to the sliding table and making sure that the wobble or binding is not happening before the cut is made. I am not certain what is getting under the table, but it seems to always ‘pop’ off the track and allow smooth operation afterwards. This leads me to believe that it is just wood chippings. I do NOT like the sliding table being any measure higher than the rest of the table, but that is the way it is. The good news is that the sliding table LOCKS in place so it doesn’t move. The bad news is that on the left side of the blade, there is not that much room between the blade and the sliding table. Maybe it can be removed, but I have not checked.
(AFTER CHECKING LAST NIGHT) The table CAN be removed, repositioned or whatever you like. There are, in fact, three fixed location points for the slide. You can remove two screws, a bracket and then the whole table just slides out. I believe a better solution is to trim the black rubber/plastic tabs down to so that this sliding table matches the height of the actual cutting table top. Then it would be just fine to rip on either side of the blade!
Let’s go next to the RIP fence.
The Rip Fence is just FINE! There are a lot of people who said that it is sloppy, loose and not straight. Well, mine was straight, tight and quite adequate for the job. As a matter of fact, and this goes back to the setup and adjustments, the rip fence tension adjustment bolt had to be loosened two turns so that the fence clamp would not bend the tracks that it clamps on. The rip fence has a clamp on BOTH ends of the fence, just like the BOSCH 4900 and several others do. With proper adjusting, this fence will work for anyone just fine.
I really LOVE the 30+ inches of rip capacity. I actually bought the saw to make cabinets, so 31” rip capacity was a big deal to me. For cabinets, the max rip I think I really need is 24”, and there are a few other saws out there that can do that for a little more money than this one. But, you don't get as many features or a roll-around table.
Miter tracks. If you review the RTS31 and say there are ‘T’ tracks on the table, then you are NOT reviewing the RTS31, you are reviewing the RTS30. For the 31, they swapped out the ‘T’s for the sliding table and you DON’T get the ‘T’ slot tracks any more. So, there is no standard ¾” track guide and no non-standard 5/8” track either. It is a sliding table with the miter on board. And it only works on the left side of the saw. Maybe that’s a problem for some, but I don’t think it will bother me much. I am more concerned about the height differential between the table and the slide table.
Frame. Well, the frame is made from metal with some kind of plastic shroud over the assembly. It has a lot of onboard storage. It stores extra blades, the blade wrenches, the rip fence and the miter fence. Once it is put away, the cord can lay down where the fences are and you can put the safety pawls and guards there too. That way, the table is smooth as you put it up against the wall. It seems pretty tough, but if it takes a hard shot, I can see the plastic shroud breaking. This is the SINGLE reason I would tell anyone who is thinking this is a ‘JOB SITE’ saw, that, it is NOT! It is a weekend warrior DIY’er saw. Since I am one of those, it should work for me just fine. If you are a contractor, where you need something that works on the job site, get the DeWalt DW745 or DWE7480. Those two have a substantial ‘roll cage’ around them so they can take a lot of physical abuse. They are also smaller in footprint.
Blade area is easily accessed because the throat plate is held down with magnets. No tools to access the blade area. Just remove the safety equipment and then pop off the throat plate and you have access to the blade for changing, etc. Easy peesy! Wrenches included, BTW!
Safety gear. Okay, when I took woodshop there was NO safety equipment around the blade at all. Now, we have three pieces that have their pluses and minuses depending on what you are doing. These pieces are the Riving Knife, Anti-kickback pawls and blade guard. The ONLY complaint I have with the safety gear so far is the anti-kickback pawls are so strong that they make a groove in the work piece as it passes through the blade to the pawls. I think these are too tight. I wonder if there is an adjustment for them.
Think of this saw as a somewhat portable table saw that requires setup verification (and you should verify setup on ANY saw before use) to make operate well, but has a lot of features for the money.
The two choices I came down to when I was choosing my saw were the DeWalt 7480 and the Ryobi RTS31 (not the RTS30). The RTS31 has a 31” rip cut capacity. The DeWalt only 24”. The Ryobi runs at 5,000 RPM, the DeWalt is 4,800. The RTS has a stand included, the DeWalt wants another $150 for the stand (which could be a future gift). The Ryobi will use a DADO set. The DeWalt will not. The Ryobi weighs 65 lbs, which is HEAVY, but the DeWalt weighs in at 50 lbs and that is something I have to actually LIFT, so it is heavy too. I figured since it is heavy either way, I would get the one with wheels.
When I started writing this review, I thought I would just go over everyone’s complaints, but as I write it I realize that yes, the Ryobi has some quirks, but it also has a lot of features. The question is: Are they features you need/want for the price point?
As I stated earlier in the review though, if the bevel lock does not work correctly, the saw is going back! And if it goes back, I will spend another $80 and get the DeWalt DW7480. The one thing I LOVE about the DeWalt is the rack and pinion rip fence adjustment. But, when I compare things, there are a TREMENDOUS amount of saws out there with the clamp style rip fence. They can’t ALL be wrong!
And remember, buy one, try it out for 30 days. Don’t like it, get the other one! That’s where I am at now.
No more jumping saw angle on startup! This thing kicks on with a tremendous amount of torque, and if the bevel lock is not tight enough (and you only get about a 90 degree twist), then it WILL jump ½ a degree. So, tighten up the bevel lock lever adjustment. I had to tighten by about 3/4 to one FULL turn!
The sliding miter table is about 1/16” higher (or less) than the saw table top. I am going to ‘trim the stoppers’ down so that everything is nice and level. The miter table itself works GREAT with no debris in the way. A vacuum collection system would help with that issue.
Anti-Kickback pawls. I suppose that if I am working on a piece that is supposed to be premium (or shown), I would remove them to avoid the scratches. But, on anything else where they should be in place, I would just leave them. IF they are adjustable, it would be better, or best!
Overall, this saw has tremendous features for the money. And weekend warriors are never sure what they are going to be tasked with doing, so the more options we have, the better!
If you are working at a job site and your normal operation is to rip down 4x8 sheets of plywood into littler strips, etc. Get something that can take that kind of strain. The hardest thing my saw will have to do is cabinets. And as long as I make sure everything is square and adjusted properly, the saw will be perfect!
July 16, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by KySlugBug Gets the job done!
Bought this saw 2 years ago and I've used it to remodel most of our home. What can I say? It does everything I need it to do. Everything still works. Nothing has ever broken. The cuts seem to be accurate.
I'm just a YouTube trained, DIY'er. I'm sure it gets only light-duty use, but $299 is a light-duty price. I'm satisfied. No complaints.
August 23, 2012
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by lke1sea Portable table saw
Bought this saw as a replacement for this same model that was about 8 years old. I was happy that I was still able to find the same model..'new and improved'. What attracted me to this model in the 1st place was its' portability and easy set-up.
June 2, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Steve Ryobi table saw
I've done a lot of cutting with this saw and it is one of the best saws I've had it's accurate and don't bog down
March 25, 2015