Rated 4.8 out of 5 by 11
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by JimBob353 Too early to tell
It's just too early to tell. I'm using this product to improve performance for a tuck pointing mortar. Seems to be working fine, but still in process. Price great. That was the biggest selling point for me.
October 19, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Deb Time will tell
Easy to brush on and so far have had no problems with bonding between old cement and newly poured. Hope it holds up Our Wisconsin winter will be the proof in the pudding
August 23, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Antstrong Great results
I mixed this product with mapei ultraflex and pronto mix to fill and level areas of pondings of water in my roof and problem resolved. It really gave the mix a great consistency and bonding with old existing concrete. Worked great! Better than self leveling and cheaper.
January 28, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Cutworm Sika Adhesive
I used this to make a small berm to divert water across my driveway. I got really good adhesion. Mixed this with a little of the concrete mix and painted the driveway before cementing. Drive across it every day and it has held up well.
December 11, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by GHDave Essential ingredient in a darn good DIY self-leveling concrete resurfacer.
After much trial-and-error I've figured out a darn good self leveling concrete resurfacer / microtopping using Sikas bonding adhesive and acrylic fortifier. The Sikalatex is the best value for acrylic fortifiers out there.
The recipe is: One 80lb bag of 3-1 sand mix, 6 quarts of portland cement, two gallons + 1 quart of sikalatex bonder/fortifier + your favorite superplasticizer (I use Riteks 7000)
The idea behind the sand mix / portland cement is to have a 1:1 mix of sand and cement. Alternatively you could use 3/4 of a 14" tall bucket of sand and another 3/4 of a bucket of cement. I always used the sand mix - it was easier.
Mix your ingredients in a concrete mixer; put your two gallons of bonder/fortifier in first and start it spinning, slowly add your cement and one that's mixed in start adding your sand mix. Do the concrete powder is first to minimize lumps. You should end up with something about the texture of thinish bread dough.
Start slowly adding your extra quart of bonder until you reach the thick pancake batter stage, you might need a bit more than 1 quart (depends on your local ingredients) so pick up two just in case.
Do NOT add just water, all the water you need is in the bonder/fortifier (it's ~73% water) if you use water than when you add the plasticizer the sand will segregate out and then you'll end up with a layer of sand, a layer of cement paste, and a layer of water.
The reason you need all the acrylic is to keep the concrete from shrink cracking as it cures, the acrylic locks it into place - and gives you a very hard impervious surface. It also helps with the creaminess of the concrete slurry and will make your concrete tenaciously adhere to almost anything.
Now slowly start adding your plasticizer until you reach the runny pancake batter stage, at that point you're done. Be VERY careful not to overdose with the plasticizer and end up segregating your concrete, it's easy to do.
I found the best way was to add a bit, mix it in, then stop the mixer and examine it for the beginnings of segregation, then add a bit more, etc. With the Riteks just over 3 ounces was about right.
Home Depot sells a plasticizer called "Flow Control" by Rapidset, it's a powder in small bags for 2.30 a bag. It works well enough but not as well as a polycarboxylate based superplasticizer, I had a couple batches segregate on me using it, about 4 bags is about right but be careful adding it.
Pretty much whatever you do you'll have lumps in your concrete, the best way I found to mix them mostly out is stop the concrete mixer and run a paint mixer attached to my cordless drill for a few mins.
That's it, you're done, spread it out and rake it in place with a squeegee or a specialized rake that's made just for this kind of application. It won't run like water so you'll need to push it in place and let it smooth out on its own. The plasticizer effect lasts for about 20 mins so that's your working time.
BTW, don't add fiberglass fibers to your mix if you want it self-leveling - it'll make it thicker. You still can but you'll need to do more work to spread it out.
September 16, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by COPSSOK Liquid Gold
I had to patch slab out side a garage side door that was pored back in around 1980 next to the foundation wall that was pored in 1955 and the person that pored it did not trim the door jambs they just pored it around the wood. So, turn the clock to now and guess what it is leaking. Cleaned the rotted wood up away and have 6x3x3 hole that needed to be filled. I use this along with Quikrete 20 lb. Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement to fill it in hole and it did better than I thought it would. The next day I trimmed the extra away and it did not crack. It healed in place and acted like it was just one big slab.
September 11, 2013
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by HONESTABE great product !
I have used this product for years. It is best priced concrete bonding and acrylic fortifier out there. It works great for bonding old concrete to new it also makes concrete stronger. I did a job at parents house on a concrete slab and walls. When I ran out and did about 90% on wall the 10% I did`nt. The 10% without the bonder started to flake off ! Next time I will always use SikaLatex!
May 6, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by mindless06795 Fortification!
I use this to mix concrete when I am using that concrete to adhere to old concrete. Works well. Not much else to say.
May 23, 2014