Model # I552D-044-HD58D

Internet #202088470

Store SKU #368778

Store SO SKU #1001319186

Stair Parts 5/8 in. x 44 in. Satin Black Iron Single-Basket Baluster

Stair Parts

5/8 in. x 44 in. Satin Black Iron Single-Basket Baluster

$936 /each
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Product Overview

From stair treads, stair railing and a complete selection of Stair Parts, Surewood-LNL has what you need to make your stairs beautiful. The Surewood-LNL 44 in. x 5/8 in. Black Iron Single-Basket Baluster has a classic black finish and is designed for interior stair construction. It is approximately 2-1/2 in. wide at the basket. Accent your iron baluster by using flat metal shoes and angled metal shoes to add a touch of detail to your stair.

  • 44 in. x 5/8 in. Dimensions with a 2-1/2 in. width at the basket
  • Made of iron
  • Black finish
  • Single-basket design
  • For interior installation

Info & Guides

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Product Depth (in.)
Product Height (in.)
Product Width (in.)


Color Family
Number of balusters included
Product Weight (lb.)
Stair Part Type
Water Resistant

Warranty / Certifications

Manufacturer Warranty
Yes, 1-year limited warranty against manufacturers defects, Limited to replacement of product only, not installation.

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Customer Questions & Answers

Can you cut these

Asked by: Zash429
Hi Zash429, these balusters can be cut with any saw that has a metal cutting blade, such as a hacksaw, or circular saw with a metal cutting blade. As always, be sure to use proper safety precautions and care when cutting metal balusters. Thank you.
Answered by: Steve Vibert
Date published: 2016-10-09

is this baluster solid or holow?

is this baluster solid or holow?
Asked by: derf
  • y_2017, m_7, d_25, h_5CST
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Customer Reviews

5/8 in. x 44 in. Satin Black Iron Single-Basket Baluster is rated 5.0 out of 5 by 1.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Provides an elegant look for a moderate price My wife and I have owner our home for a couple of years, and one of the home improvements we always thought about doing was replacing the standard white wood balusters with wrought iron. The conclusion I have is that it is no easy project, but worth every dollar and every second spent on it! I would do it again in a heartbeat, and Home Depot has a very good product for what you will spend. I replaced 83 balusters in a 2 double twist – 1 single basket – 2 double twist configuration and only used the shoes at the bottom of each baluster. I purchased all new tools and really didn’t spare any cost other than to get them on sale for Memorial Day: cordless drill with lithium battery, a sliding compound miter saw, a reciprocating saw, and all saw blades and speed bore drill bits. All told, it saved me at least $700 compared to having someone else do it, and I now have a nice new tool set (and I am a perfectionist which is not what you can expect from a cheap work crew). It cost me an entire weekend starting Friday after work until Sunday night, only stopping to eat quickly and sleep. I did have an empty house, which was nice because the house was a construction zone. Anyone around will only add to the time. The process is quite simple to describe: 1. Using the reciprocating saw, cut the middle of the wood balusters. Once sawed in half, you can remove top and bottom by rocking and pulling out. 2. Remove all nails. Leaving any behind will make drilling more difficult later. 3. Using a 7/8” speed bore drill bit, drill ¼” - ½” into the stair and approximately 1 ¼” into the bottom of the banister. 4. Measure the distance to be occupied by the baluster, and add 1”. This will give you the approximate ½” top and bottom to set into your existing furniture. (I actually added 1 ¼” and cut ¼” off the top of the baluster to hide the taper within my banister). 5. Using the miter saw and a metal cutting blade, cut the baluster, measuring from the top down. 6. Slide the baluster up into the banister, and back down into the hole in the stair. 7. Cement in place. All told, it really is that simple, but a lot more work than one would assume. Some advise: 1. Buy a couple different speed bore drill bits. Get a self-feeding drill-style bit and a second paddle-style bit. My banister is oak and there are times when the self-feeding bit would get hung up. By alternating, the paddle speed bore will chip away in there and give you a new surface to catch onto with the self-feeder. Do not be cheap here. Nothing sucks worse than having to make a trip to Home Depot because you are at the end of your rope! And, your job will be as easy as your drill bits are good. 2. Have a good set of locking pliers to help with pulling out the nails left behind. Pulling 2” nails out of an oak banister is easily the least enjoyable part of the process, so save your hands. 3. Have a good level, and verify with a tape measure. I would determine where the baluster would enter the stair based on spacing at 4”, and use an uncut wrought iron baluster and the level to determine where to bore into the banister. You will have some play in the holes and can adjust for level when you cement them in. I was very detail oriented at this point, checking with the level and measuring spacing top and bottom. 4. Tape the bottom of the banister where you are going to bore to avoid splintering. This will help with the touch up afterward. 5. Have a metric set of allen wrenches because the shoes have an odd size screw. Some people complained of stripping issues, and I didn’t have this problem because I think I had the right size wrench. As I said, it is a lot of work and takes a lot longer than one might think based on the process. However, I found myself admiring it often along the way as it instantaneously changed the detail of the house. It now looks like a model home--it really is that dramatic. When my wife came home to it the first time, she said it was like walking into a completely different house. If you have the time and the curiousity, I would highly recommend it. And for the cost, you will not beat what you get in this product.
Date published: 2013-07-04
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