Rated 3.4 out of 5Â by 11
Rated 1 out of 5Â by ksparks Too difficult to install
We were unable to install this flooring, and my family members and I have installed click laminate and hardwood flooring on three separate occasions with little to no difficulty in the past. With this flooring, no matter what we tried (installing it backwards, left to right, right to left, puller, hammer, etc.) there were gaps between the boards. They did not "click" together even with the proper tools and much effort. After three hours of only laying three rows without gaps in our smallest bedroom, we had to give up. We had planned to lay 1100 sq ft of the flooring, but ended up taking it all back.
December 9, 2014
Rated 4 out of 5Â by vlcak Beautiful brown/gray tones. Difficult to install.
My husband has previously installed several laminate floors with no problem. This TrafficMaster Colfax was very difficult to install because it kept coming apart as he would get several boards down. We finally called a professional who managed to work them together and had the floor down in a couple of days. There is still a very small gap between a few of the boards.
Overall, we are very pleased with the beauty of the floor. We wanted a floor without red tones and this has the gray/browns we wanted. The boards seem to be strong- we slid some furniture on it to move it into place and there was no scratching. It also does not seem to show footprints, etc. as some laminates can.
June 19, 2013
Rated 5 out of 5Â by Goldrush Absolutely Love This Floor!
Love the look and quality of this floor! I had a handyman install it and he had no problem whatsoever putting it together. Took him a day to do my daughter's room. I like it so much I am seriously considering doing my bedroom as well!
November 7, 2014
Rated 4 out of 5Â by UncleP A Balanced Review - I Hope
Mainly I am reviewing here to add some context around the installation comments in the other reviews. A bit about me: I am not a professional contractor but I have above average (for a non-pro) skills with wood and home repair projects. Regarding installation: yes, it's a tad difficult to install but I think your head has to be in the right place when you start. If you think that you're going to just drop this stuff down and click it in and be done in a couple of hours, well, get that thought out of your head. It simply doesn't work like that. I installed 250 square feet in a foyer with seven door frames. Tricky business with all the notching and cutting. But it's done. Here's what you need to expect: (1) it takes a little practice getting the boards to snap together just right the whole length of the board. You will not get it right the first time every time until you're some way into your project. That's OK. Just be ready for it and go slowly in the beginning. You'll pick up speed as you move along and get a feel for how to snap them. And if two boards aren't sitting right keep at them until they do. Do not fudge it. I repeat - do not fudge it. The next row of boards will not correct the prior row. The opposite happens - the "bad" row makes all the following rows bad. See next comment for a great tip. (2) Sometimes you can't actually get the boards to snap perfectly into place right at the end joint of the prior board. I don't know why. But it doesn't matter. Move the board you are installing up the line a little bit from the installed board until you can get it to snap all the way in. Then take a block and a hammer and gently tap the end of the board until the other end seam is closed. And when you do this try to remember to check the abutting end before you make the last couple of taps to ensure that the end joints don't bash into each other. One should slot over the other one. (3) It helps to have a second person around when snapping in some boards. If you get one end of a board snapped in you can have someone (I had my 7 year old son do it) stand on the locked in end and then snap in the rest of the board. That assures a solid, tight seam. Then tap into position per my prior note. (4) Expect sore hands. It takes some gripping to get the boards into place. No big deal. You're hands will be fine in a day. Just a little sore. (5) Expect a fair amount of waste. The boards have tongue and grooves on each end. Once you cut a board you theoretically can only use it at one end or another of the row (where it abuts the wall). I did one seam without the end tongue/groove because I had no other good option. It worked but it's in a tiny corner not likely to take any foot traffic. I imagine you could just abut the ends w/o the tongue and groove but I elected not to. The floor "floats". The more tongue and grooves the better. (6) You can install over a not-perfectly-flat floor. The flatter the better, though. My floor has some slight undulations to it (old house). The floor settled down over those undulations very well but if you look at the floor from afar in the right light and down the long lines you can discern the undulations as they show up as slight variations in the "straight" lines. Not a big deal - I have nail down wood floors with the same issue. But wanted to toss it out there. Finally, re your tools: cut the board finish side down on your table saw; finish side up on your mitre saw, finish side up with your jig saw. In summary, I had a complicated installation with many cuts and notches but each and every one of my seams is dead on tight per manufacturer's specs. So don't settle for spaces. You'll regret it later. You can do it yourself. As with all such projects the key is planning, preparation (don't forget your padding!), the rights tools (table saw, mitre saw, jig saw are the main things you want to have), and patience. Patience and persistence.
October 23, 2014
Rated 5 out of 5Â by Desrex Looks great, easy to install...
I had never installed a floating floor before so I wasn't exactly sure what to expect. Key note here: make sure your subfloor is flat and even!!! I watched every video on laminate installation and subfloor preparation before I got going -- it helped. That being said, I learned that different products lock together differently. The ends of this product DO NOT lock together end to end UNLESS there is a board locked in on the next row joining the other two. Basically, get your first two boards lined up end to end, then start the next row. They lock in just fine that way. Putting pieces under door jambs is difficult and you have to shave off the groove and add a line of glue. It's a little bit of a hassle but it still works fine. I installed about 530 sq ft in an entrance way, living room and hallway. The product looks fantastic and my wife is very happy. I used a 2 mil 3-in-one underlayment that I purchased from bestlaminate.com for $16 a roll (100 sq ft). Wish I could post a picture! Have fun!
August 25, 2014