Model # SEC14 RW R13 KD

Internet #205031425

Store SKU #1000044755

Veranda Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit
0844219014881

Veranda

Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit

  • High quality composite with popular flat, drink-friendly rail
  • 20-year limited warranty - no splintering, cracking or rotting
  • Perfect addition to decks, porches and balconies
$64.97 /each

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Product Overview

Veranda Regency Railing offers a flat, entertainment friendly profile perfect for dressing up decks, porches and balconies. Included with white square composite balusters, Veranda Composite Railing pairs well with any architectural style. Veranda Regency Railing consists of a premium composite substructure with a permanent PVC finish for a beautiful, sturdy and safe surround. Veranda Composite Railing installs quickly and easily with drop-in balusters. Matching Post Sleeves, Post Caps and Post Sleeve Base Molding available to complete your railing system.

California residents: see   Proposition 65 information

  • Veranda composite railing requires no additional railing reinforcements
  • Quick and easy assembly
  • High strength, heavy composite technology core
  • Permanent vinyl coating requires no painting or staining
  • Guaranteed not to crack, peel or blister
  • Hardware sold separately
  • 13 balusters included
  • Assembly required
  • Click Here for an estimate on your Regency Railing Project!



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Customer Questions & Answers

24 Questions47 Answers

Customer Questions & Answers

Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit
Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit

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3 answers

Do you recommend drainage holes to be drilled in the lower railing?

This question is from Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit
Asked by
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September 17, 2016
I an concerned about freezing and the rail cracking due to buildup of water in the lower railing during the winter months.
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Asked by
Boston, MA
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
September 21, 2016
Answer: 
Dear PZdol: Yes. I live in Massachusetts and had the same concern. Water will probably trickle out of the open ends of the bottom rail, but I drilled four small drain holes just to be sure.

Here are some more tips for installation:

(1) Cutting the rails to fit: Use a fine tooth (e.g. 90 tooth) carbide tipped circular saw blade, with a cut-off or miter saw. Measure and cut both ends, of course, so
Read More
Dear PZdol: Yes. I live in Massachusetts and had the same concern. Water will probably trickle out of the open ends of the bottom rail, but I drilled four small drain holes just to be sure.

Here are some more tips for installation:

(1) Cutting the rails to fit: Use a fine tooth (e.g. 90 tooth) carbide tipped circular saw blade, with a cut-off or miter saw. Measure and cut both ends, of course, so that the baluster holes will be aligned evenly between the posts. Attached is a photo of a recent project along the shore in Massachusetts, with Veranda composite railing and tempered glass panels. All of these sections were cut to custom lengths.

(2) Install the brackets on the top and bottom rails 1/16" back from the end of the rail. This will pull the end of the rail tight to the post when you tighten the screws. If the brackets are flush with the end of the rail, this will create a gap. We use a small builders square with a thin piece of cardboard taped to it, to quickly align the brackets with this offset. A photo is attached.

(3) Stainless steel is softer that standard steel and the driver bits tend to 'cam out'. Always drill pilot holes as noted in the installation guide, and drive the screws slowly and carefully. If a bit cams out, immediately back the screw out and try again with a new one.

(4) Add a support under the bottom rail: Even though Regency capped composite rails are very strong, it is a good idea to add a support under the middle of the bottom rail. A piece of Veranda cellular PVC trim works well. See: Veranda Model H190JWS5, Home Depot Internet #100243235 Store SKU #252124 A photo is attached.

Veranda railing is also strong enough to support flower boxes. Let me know if you would like info on how to install them; just post another question on the HD website.

I hope this is helpful.
Mark Read Less
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Asked by
Chesterfield, VA
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September 19, 2016
Answer: 
Good question. I think if you're concerned about it, go ahead and do it. I considered this myself, just for water drainage, not for freezing sake, but neglected to do it. My installation left slight angle gaps, so most water will run out anyway. If you have a perfect joint, then you may potentially have a lot of water build up in the rail. I'm now thinking of going back and doing it just to be safe!
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September 19, 2016
Answer: 
Thank you for your question. No, drainage holes are not necessary. The rails are hollow so moisture will drain out of the ends.
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3 answers

I need 10' 3" Can two 6 foot sections be easily connected?

This question is from Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit
Asked by
ohio
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May 17, 2016
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August 26, 2016
Answer: 
You'll need to add a post kit in the middle. Careful because the post kit may not be the same manufacturer, even though they're both labeled as veranda.
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May 19, 2016
Answer: 
Thank you for your question. No, the railings cannot be joined; they will not be stable. You will need to add a post in the center and install 2 shorter sections.
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Asked by
Massachusetts
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
May 18, 2016
Answer: 
Dear JW: Unfortunately, no. 8' is the maximum available length. Railing is obviously a safety feature, so joining two pieces would be a code violation and safety problem.
Your best option is to add a post at the mid point. Read up on how posts should be attached, e.g. with galvanized or stainless bolts and bracing. We recently rebuilt a deck and had to add posts for the same reason.
I hope this is Read More
Dear JW: Unfortunately, no. 8' is the maximum available length. Railing is obviously a safety feature, so joining two pieces would be a code violation and safety problem.
Your best option is to add a post at the mid point. Read up on how posts should be attached, e.g. with galvanized or stainless bolts and bracing. We recently rebuilt a deck and had to add posts for the same reason.
I hope this is helpful.
Mark Read Less
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3 answers

i have 4x6 post do they have sleeves for that

This question is from Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit
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March 17, 2016
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Asked by
Chesterfield, VA
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September 19, 2016
Answer: 
From what I've found, they only do 4x4 sleeves. You probably won't get the smooth vinyl look throughout your entire project. I suggest, that you heavily prime 2-3x the post and then top coat with high gloss exterior enamel. You won't notice it's not vinyl from afar.
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Asked by
Massachusetts
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
April 26, 2016
Answer: 
Dear JBB: No. You have two options:
(1) Trim your posts down to the standard 4" x 4" size, (actual measurement = 3.5" x 3.5") above the deck surface. If you have a good circular saw, this would be the easiest solution. You could make a cut on either side to reduce the depth and improve accuracy. The bottom can be trimmed flush with the deck surface using a multi tool, e.g. Ryobi Model # P340 Internet Read More
Dear JBB: No. You have two options:
(1) Trim your posts down to the standard 4" x 4" size, (actual measurement = 3.5" x 3.5") above the deck surface. If you have a good circular saw, this would be the easiest solution. You could make a cut on either side to reduce the depth and improve accuracy. The bottom can be trimmed flush with the deck surface using a multi tool, e.g. Ryobi Model # P340 Internet # 202868525 Store SKU # 181533, or a Japanese style hand pull saw, e.g. DEWALT Model # DWHT20215 Internet # 205436901 Store SKU # 1001004113.
(2) Fabricate your own post sleeves with Veranda cellular PVC trim. Use the 1/2" products, e.g. Veranda Model # H120WWS2 Internet # 203733425 Store SKU # 260883 If you have a table saw, you can cut 45 degree edges and assemble your custom sleeves with AZEK glue -- Model # ARAD0004OZ Internet # 202084809 Store SKU # 740567 Glued joints are stronger than the trim; no screws are needed.
I hope this is helpful.
Mark Read Less
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March 21, 2016
Answer: 
Thank you for your question. No, we do not offer a sleeve for a 4x6" post.
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3 answers

Does this kit include the balusters?

This question is from Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. White Capped Composite Rail Kit
Asked by
Powder Springs, GA
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August 13, 2014
Regency 6 ft. x 3 ft. Composite White Rail Kit
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-Regency-6-ft-x-3-ft-Composite-White-Rail-Kit-SEC14-RW-R13-KD/205031425
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Asked by
Chesterfield, VA
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September 19, 2016
Answer: 
Yes... square ballusters as shown in the picture.
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Asked by
Boston, MA
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September 20, 2014
Answer: 
Dear Alloch70: Yes, balusters are included in the kits -- and holes are precut in the rails, which makes installation quick and easy. See my review for more installation tips.
Mark
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August 22, 2014
Answer: 
Yes. The Regency Composite Rail Kit includes Top, Bottom Rails and the required Balusters (13 > 1.5 in. x 1.5 in. x 33.5 in.) Please note: the Railing Hardware is sold separately.
Thank you for your interest in Veranda Composite Railing!
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Customer Reviews

Rated 4.0 out of 5 by 8 reviewers.
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Requires significant skills Ordered online the railings, brackets, short 48" posts for our front porch remodeling. The taller 108" post sleeves (to support front porch roof) were not available thru them, but a different company (Crossover) supplied, and they were fine. We picked up at store. Sadly the receiving department was fairly rough and several areas were marred, but we were able to hide those. Everything must be absolutely plumb and level. Short balusters are fairly easy, but if using on roofed porch like us, can be tricky to get the tall posts right. Biggest problem were the brackets. The bottom ones were easy because they had wide flanges so you could get your screwdriver, drill, etc., in there. But the top brackets were very small (probably to help hide) so the banisters were always too close for a drill to easily work, even with longer bits. Mostly did those by hand with a screwdriver. Also they supply cheap screws so they strip out very easily (too bad they aren't deck screw quality). Be sure to pre-drill everything! Or the vinyl might crack. Other issue was that the white vinyl shows every scratch but that can't be helped with this type of material. Took 4 full days to complete the porch (6 sets of railings, 4 tall posts, 4 balusters). Still working on covering soffits.... September 27, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Easy to fit This was simple to add on a remodel porch. We wrapped the post that was there with the matching post wrap and it worked easily. This rail we had to cut 1/2" off both sides to fit it to our porch. We have a good power saw and blade, clean cut. Quick fit. you do need to pre-drill post to let the screws work the best when using the kit that joins it to post. It does not come with the rail, you buy it separate. We have all the tools and technology, but we are aging, this allowed us to do our own repair even as Seniors. June 17, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Nice sturdy product, but beware some details Overall I'm pleased with this product. The design is nice and after installation it's very sturdy... much more so than I expected from PVC railings. It took me a whole day to install 5 kits, not including the post kit, which took about 1/2 day by itself due to my limited access underneath the porch. The details: 1) Veranda is a brand name owned by Home Depot. HOWEVER, they allow two different manufacturers (Fiberon and Barrette) to sell under the same name and logo, setting up a recipe for incompatibility. I needed a post kit, so I bought the one with a metal tube structure (Barrette), not knowing it was a different manufacturer than the rails. Problem was the rail line hardware kit had an assortment of screws that would not work with the Barrette post kit. The screws to attach to the post would hit the metal tube (see pictures). I tried to find alternative shorter screws, but couldn't find any like the painted ones they provided in the line kit. Fortunately Home Depot online took pity on me and supplied me a new hardware kit so I could have the proper (extra) screws. I made the case that they're selling incompatible products under the same brand name. 2) Pay close attention to where you screw the brackets on to the rail (i.e. the underside). I accidentally installed the brackets on the upper side of one top rail and now have to buy a new top rail. If you work quickly, you'll forget which side to put the brackets on. I was able to purchase a new rail from Home Depot. Asked them to sell it to me at cost seeing as how I spent close to $600 on these rails and accessories. So getting a new top rail for just over $20. 3) If your posts are not square to your columns, you will have a gap angle. Don't try to fudge, make sure everything is as perpendicular/plumb/level as possible. Even with the recommended gap between the joining surface and the bracket (which helps to pull the pieces together), it doesn't always close the gap completely, especially on the stair rails. Also, my columns were not exactly centered with the lower posts on the stairs, so I had to attach one stair rail off-center of my main porch column (see pictures). 4) You WILL strip screw heads (and they don't give you extras in the line rail kits)... found that I needed to use the high torque/low speed setting on my drill to reduce the occurrence of this. Also they recommend using a 1/8" bit for drilling pilot holes. This is OK for plastic, but too tight for wood IMO. Therefore I had better luck using a 9/64" bit when drilling into wood. This helped to reduce stripping the screw heads. 5) If you're cutting the stair rail, you start with the bottom. The tricky part is transferring that cut to the top rail. You should match the holes together when doing this, BUT do NOT measure to the hole edge, because that hole edge will change in horizontal distance as you increase the angle of your stairs due to the thickness of the hole. You need to put a baluster in at the approximate angle of the stairs and measure the horizontal distance from the cut to the baluster. I cut a short piece of extra baluster (about 3" long) to be able to position the baluster vertically but at an angle like it would be installed. Then I could transfer the cut line to the top rail. See pictures... I drew a section view. Note that if you transfer the A dimension on the lower rail to the upper rail B dimension, it will skew your balusters slightly. Honestly, I made this mistake on one of my stair rails and you can't tell. Even looking through the balusters on the second rail and comparing the angles, they're barely distinguishable. But if you're a perfectionist like me, you'll want it right. My only dilemma now is what glue I should use to attach the post caps. August 26, 2016
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by Finished product looks great The screws that come with this product are junk. Every section of railing have a different type of bit to tighten them. Also they paint the screws after they are manufactured so it is difficult to get the bit into the screw. Many times the bit slips in the screw and it ruins the screw. Whoever tries to take one of these railing down for whatever reason is going to have a fit. September 17, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Nice Quality Product. Nice quality product. Easy to install. Dressed up my 20 year old deck. July 28, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Best deck railing solution I found The original wood railing on our deck was aging quickly, ugly and unsafe. I reviewed the options and picked the Veranda Regency composite product at our local Home Depot. I am a semi-pro home remodeler and know quite a bit about new building products and technology, and this composite is a winner. The core is strong and weather resistant like pultruded fiberglass, and the gloss white surface is sharp and never needs paint. Unlike vinyl, the rails and balusters are strong even when it gets hot in the summer, self supporting and need no wood reinforcement. Sleeves slip over your existing posts, so no structural changes should be required. The rails also fasten to the posts with stainless brackets on the bottom side -- there are no ugly 'pocket brackets' at the end of every rail. The brackets and screws are all stainless steel, for long term strength and no rust stains. I attached some photos showing the before-and-after from wood to Veranda. Here are a few installation tips: > Post sleeves: The post sleeves will be larger than your wood posts, which leaves a gap. Insert a couple of shims at the top to tighten the sleeve against the post. This will make installation of the rail brackets easier; the sleeve won't shift and move when you are drilling holes and tightening the stainless screws. (A photo is attached showing the shims in place.) > Rail brackets: Attach the brackets to the rails first. If you position the stainless rail brackets at the end of the rail, you will find that this often leads to a gap between the end of the rail and the post, after the rail is installed. Tape a thin piece of cardboard to a small builder's square, and hold it against the end of the rail when you position the bracket and mark the holes for the rail screws. This will shift the bracket back a bit, which will pull the rail tight to the post. (Photos are attached of the builder's square, the marks for the holes, the gap and the rail pulled tight.) > Clamp the rails to the posts: To keep the rail securely in position while you mark the bracket holes, drill the pilots and tighten the screws, rest it on a couple of 2x4 pieces, then carefully clamp the bottom of the brackets to the posts with rubber faced clamps that won't mar the post sleeve. (Not a metal clamp.) The clamp will cover the bottom hole in the bracket; you can add this final screw after the other two are tightened. > Stainless screws: People often complain about stainless screws 'twisting out' or breaking. Fact is, stainless is softer than the steel used for standard screws, e.g. Deckmate. You must be more careful. If your PT deck posts are old and hard, you may need to drill small pilot holes. Always use a fresh, high quality, full length driver bit -- not the free short ones that wiggle around and twist out. Drive the screws in slowly and carefully with constant pressure. If a screw starts to slip and skip, stop immediately, back it out slowly and start again with a new one. (High quality Milwaukee bits are available in the Home Depot tool dept.) I hope all of this info is helpful. This was a great solution for our deck, and should be for yours! Mark September 20, 2014
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Better than our old wood railing Easy to install, almost didn't need the directions. Our old wood railing was dried out, cracking and generally unattractive. This looks much better. We'll see if it still looks as good in 10 years. We were concerned that it might not be sturdy enough but it certainly is. October 24, 2015
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by Decent, required brackets are worthless The railing itself is pretty good quality, really like the look and the price is pretty competitive. One of the railing kits I received had the baluster holes cut 1.5" x 2" as opposed to 1.5x1.5; not a big deal I always buy a few extra for things like this and return as needed. Biggest downside is the required brackets are more than $16 for 4 brackets and a handful of screws. Even with pre-drilling all the holes, the screws still all stripped. Ended up buying some quality screws separately...pretty big bummer for something that is so much. I would definitely keep the low quality and high expense of those brackets in mind before buying this again. September 11, 2014
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