Watts 1/4 in. Brass Compression Angle Needle Valve with Chrome Plating-LF A42 - The Home Depot


Model # LF A42

Internet # 202254837

Store SKU # 611859

1/4 in. Brass Compression Angle Needle Valve with Chrome Plating

Watts 1/4 in. Brass Compression Angle Needle Valve with Chrome Plating

This item has been discontinued.
The Home Depot no longer carries this specific product.

$7.33 / each


Model # LF A42

Internet # 202254837

Store SKU # 611859

The Watts 1/4 in. Brass Compression Angle Needle Valve with Chrome Plating. Includes a brass insert and comes completely assembled with a captive sleeve. This compression fitting features a durable, lead-free brass body that is interchangeable with standard compression fittings (not included).

  • Brass construction provides durability
  • Threads are manufactured to high-quality standards and tolerances
  • Lead-free material contains less than a weighted average of 0.25% lead when used with respect to the wetted surfaces of pipes and plumbing fittings and fixtures
  • For use with copper, brass, aluminum, thermoplastic and plastic tubing when used with Watts insert #967-P (tubing and insert sold separately)
  • Not recommended for use with steel tubing
  • Not suitable for underground applications
  • Compression connections
  • 400 psi maximum working pressure
  • Assembled with a captive sleeve and includes a brass insert

Info & Guides

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Assembled Depth (in.)  .375 in  Assembled Height (in.)  2.5 in 
Assembled Width (in.)  2 in  Product Height (in.)  2.0 
Product Length (in.)  2 in  Product Width (in.) 
Valve Inlet Diameter (in.)  0.25  Valve Outlet Diameter (in.)  0.25 
Compatible Pipe Material  Brass  Connection  Comp 
Material  Brass  Maximum Pressure (psi)  400 
Maximum Working Temperature (F)  160  Pipe or Fitting Product Type  Valve 
Product Weight (lb.)  0.11 lb  Rating  Water 
Returnable  90-Day 
Warranty / Certifications
Manufacturer Warranty  Watts (the "Company") warrants each product to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal usage for a period of one year from the date of original shipment. 


Rated 3 out of 5 by 4 reviewers.
Rated 4 out of 5 by will work great, if.... The first time I tried to use this, it failed miserably. I was using it with 1/4 inch plastic line for refrigerator water supply. They do not tell you that with plastic line, you need to also buy the ferrel (sp) inserts that go inside the plastic line. This keeps the outer brass thing from turning sideways when you tighten it up. I went back and bought those and it works perfect! December 29, 2013
Rated 5 out of 5 by Simple valve, works great, does exactly what it should I installed this needle valve to control a water line to my under-cabinet water filter (which feeds a dedicated water faucet and ice maker. I have high water pressure where I live (~90psi); I first installed everything without a dedicated valve, and although none of my pipes/connections leaked, I wasn't comfortable with the high pressure running through the ice maker solenoid valve or the plastic push-in fittings on the water filter and water faucet. I wanted to reduce the pressure to put my mind at ease. This needle valve was just what the doctor ordered! I can open it up all the way for fast flow, turn it down to a slow trickle, or turn it off completely. I have absolutely no complaints about this valve. It was easy to install and works prefectly. It should be noted that I used 1/4 copper tubing for everything. I used plastic PE tubing originally (because it came with the filter), but I quickly replaced it all with copper. Perhaps I'm just paranoid, but I just don't trust plastic as much as copper when it comes to pressurized water lines (yes, I know PEX tubing is the "norm", but I still prefer copper). With regards to the connections, I didn't use the included compression nuts with captive sleeves. I used standard compression nuts and slide on ferrules for the copper tubing (you don't need a sleeve with copper). Also, just a tip for anyone who is new to compression fittings, use pipe thread sealant on the threads and a little bit on the ferrule, the lubrication it provides makes it much easier to properly seal the fitting. March 26, 2014
Rated 2 out of 5 by Survival Guide I am going to share what I have learned, as a typical DIY homeowner, having struggled with this little bugger for 3 days. I have seldom exerted so much energy for so little reward. First, the directions are POOR. Prep the tubing well (I will assume copper). Cut CLEANLY (tubing cutter, or if hacksaw, maybe rotary sand (Dremel) or file the end of tube after cutting.) Then use emery cloth or sandpaper to clean burrs off end of tubing. Don't let the tube flatten. Second, remove nut one end of valve. Then you are to FORCE the tubing into end of nut ("ferule" is inside) AND OUT THE OTHER END by 1/4 inch or so (says product support line). This requires substantial force and twisting motion and maybe a drop of dish detergent (lube). In fact, I think the ferrule is misdesigned, with an opening a bit too small for typical 1/4 inch copper. I have only a 50% success rate, even with a hammer. It's like trying to extrude copper "by hand." IF you don't get the tube all the way on, you risk constant seepage around where the nut fits onto the valve body. For copper, you do NOT need the tubing insert that is supplied, "they say." It will not hurt, "they say." Third, when you tighten down, rule of thumb is finger tight then 1/2 turn past. Alternate is finger tight then tighten until leaking stops. IF YOU TIGHTEN TOO FAR, the ferrule is destroyed, massive leak ensues, and you need to get a replacement nut/ferrule and start again, maybe even recut tubing. If the tube has some deformity (flattened) to it, it may not work no matter what, and you have to cut another 1/4 inch until you get to a well-shaped part. Good luck- glad I am "done" (I hope). November 7, 2013
Rated 1 out of 5 by Valve failed to shut off water. Used for water line to ice maker. Had trouble installing because ferrules wouldn't fit easily over the 1/4-inch copper pipe. Then, valve would NOT shut off the water, not even a little bit. Tightened lightly at first and then kept tightening more and more, but it still failed to shut off the water. These small valves are too fragile for reliable operation. Better to use larger ball valves. October 19, 2013
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