0612052076461

Zurn-Wilkins

Model 34-70XLDU

Internet #202268544

Store SKU #246499

3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Water Pressure Reducing Valve

$83.78 /each

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Product Overview

An ideal choice for your project, the Zurn-Wilkins 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Water Pressure Reducing Valve features low-lead brass construction. This double union valve can accommodate a maximum pressure of 300 psi. Product meets low lead standards.

  • Low-lead brass
  • Water pressure reducing valve
  • Double union FNPT
  • 3/4 in. inlet
  • 3/4 in. outlet

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Warranty / Certifications

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Customer Questions & Answers

3 Questions3 Answers

Customer Questions & Answers

3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Water Pressure Reducing Valve
3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Water Pressure Reducing Valve

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1 answer

what is the maximum pressure it can be set to?

This question is from 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Water Pressure Reducing Valve
Asked by
Arizona
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August 17, 2016
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Answer (1)

Asked by
Lakewood, Ohio
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
August 18, 2016
Answer: 
It can be set to a maximum water output of 75 PSI. It can handle a maximum water input of 300 PSI
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1 answer

Installation in copper pipe

This question is from 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Water Pressure Reducing Valve
Asked by
Austin, Texas
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June 11, 2016
The installation instructions do not explain the connections. Can 3/4" copper pipe be soldered directly to the tailpieces? Are other copper pipe fittings required?
What is the correct face-to-face dimension between installed tailpieces to fit in the valve and gaskets?
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Asked by
Lakewood, Ohio
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
June 13, 2016
Answer: 
To properly install a pressure reducing valve, you should have some plumbing experience. I would suggest you contact a licensed plumber.
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1 answer

Model was installed by plumber, how do I increase the pressure?

This question is from 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Water Pressure Reducing Valve
Asked by
baltimore
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November 19, 2015
Model was installed professionally recently. I just checked my pressure and it is at 40. Since my water pressure in the upstairs bathroom is somewhat low, how do I increase the pressure at the valve?
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Asked by
Lakewood, Ohio
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
December 17, 2015
Answer: 
1. You should install a pressure gauge on the water line, down stream from the pressure regulator (on the outlet side of the regulator) if one is not currently present. It is always important to have an accurate measure of the pressure in your system.
2. Locate the pressure adjustment bolt and locknut which are located on top of the bell, above the metal ID tag.
3. While firmly holding the adjustment Read More
1. You should install a pressure gauge on the water line, down stream from the pressure regulator (on the outlet side of the regulator) if one is not currently present. It is always important to have an accurate measure of the pressure in your system.
2. Locate the pressure adjustment bolt and locknut which are located on top of the bell, above the metal ID tag.
3. While firmly holding the adjustment bolt with a wrench, loosen the lock nut with another wrench. To raise the pressure in the system, turn the adjustment bolt clockwise to raise the pressure and counter clockwise to lower the pressure.
4. After reaching the desired pressure, again hold the adjustment bolt firmly with one wrench while tightening the locknut with the other wrench.
Since water pressure which is too high can damage some plumbing components in your system, you may want to hire a plumber to adjust the pressure. Read Less
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Customer Reviews

Rated 3.3 out of 5 by 6 reviewers.
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Perfect Transaction and product All good. Quick delivery. Easy install. Works well. May 31, 2016
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by Cheap Plastic inside!!! I bought this unit in 2008 and after two years after installment it started to act up my water would gush from the faucet then slow down to normal and really get a lot of pressure built up in the lines I was afraid of bursting a water line and flooding my home. so I went to a plumber and bought a good one it cost 2$$.$$ and a bit more but it is not plastic inside and will not wear out so fast as this one did to have someone put one in it is 5$$.$$ so it is worth the expense the first time around, I am saying the unit is not a good one. This is sleepersteve July 15, 2013
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Reduced pressure from 120 to 76 PSI Set up was easy except for the two feet of clearance I had in the crawl space. I couldn't under stand why the HWT relief valve was leaking, even after I replaced it. I checked the tank heating elements and noticed that the top element was leaking slightly. The Republic Thermoglas 66 gal tank was installed in 1973 when the house was built. Decided to replace the tank and attached a WP gauge on the hose bib to find 110-120 PSI without HWT on. The PSI jumped to 160 PSI with power to the HWT. I installed a Watts DET-5 thermal expansion tank since the system became "closed" after installing the Water Pressure Valve. Now the system is working great and the maximum pressure is 80 PSI with the HWT energized. The new GE 12 yr warranty 50 gallon tank rests in a drain pan, so when it fails probably in 10 years, I won't have water damage. April 10, 2014
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by for the price not bad. works great. I have installed better reducing valves but at a higher cost. These valves have to be replaced or rebuilt every three to four years when the potable water contains excessive minerals and sand. I recommend the model 600 which can be cleaned of heavy deposits more easily over this valve, however the supply/service line size may be an issue with the 600. February 24, 2013
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Piece of Junk. Reduced my pressure to next to to nothing. It won't allow me to increase the pressure either. What a piece of junk. Don't waste your time. October 23, 2013
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Works well, as good as any other that I have seen and very reasonable. NO plastic in these, and I prefer the 70XL model because many of the cartridge parts are stainless steel, not brass or plastic. Check the specs. Easy to install with double unions (and much easier to replace if needed, as you unbolt the unions and slide the regulator out). DO OT OVER TIGHTEN THE THREADER PIPE SECTION OF THE UNION OR THE UNIONS ONTO THE VALVE BODY, I have seen the brass unions split and/or the gasket distort from over tightening. Use good (yellow or blue) Teflon tape and/or Teflon pipe dope. Use a little pipe dope or sealant on the union gasket. These pressure reducing valves all work pretty much the same, the replacement cartridge system is much easier to replace then the older models with a multitude of pieces that are often frozen/rusted in place. I have installed one 70XL on the main line and then two NR3XL in series with the main regulator on irrigation/pool water systems. These are set at lower pressures. The all worked as they should, the 70XL has better flow ratings. Some individuals complain that they do not hold pressure at their set levels under use. Please understand that with these pressure reducing valves, you will always see some drop in line pressure when they are in use which is proportional to the flow rate. I set the 70XL at 60 PSI with an inlet pressure of 95-105 PSI, the post valve pressure drops to 45 PSI with high water demand. It is very steady with minimal fluctuations. The pressure drop is also affected by the street water pressure, flow rating of the water meter and pipe sizing. With very hard water (which we have in Arizona), Even the best water pressure reducing valves usually only last a couple of years until needing to be rebuilt according to our local plumbers (and they charge an arm and a leg to repair/replace them). The bell housing on most models is not completely sealed at the threads of the adjustment bolt, so if placed underground consider placing them in an irrigation box so they are not covered with water/mud. You don't want to be digging them out of the ground which I commonly see and the spring and diaphragm disc are a mass of rust. The main downside on almost all residential pressure reducing valves is the cost of the repair kit is almost as much as a new unit. I bought a second 70XL, when the time comes for replacement, either I will spin off the top and drop in a new cartridge from the new unit, or undo the unions and just slide in the new unit. Then rebuild the old unit for the next round. I give this pressure reducing valve 4 stars at Home Depot, because of the three that I purchased, all three had been opened and two were missing parts (washer/union). So check the box before you leave the store. December 7, 2013
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