Rated 3.8 out of 5Â by 19
Rated 4 out of 5Â by bluepig112 Worked perfect for this first-timer
After reading all the negative reviews about this product I'm going to be honest- I didn't want to use it. We are restoring a home built in 1890 and these 125 year old floors were never finished. They had horrible, thick paint over them. After much research, I discovered that our options were limited as to what was available in our area and so we chose to go with this product. I was terrified of ruining this floor and after spending a few DAYS sanding I wanted to do it right. I followed advice from a pro, which was for a first timer who is unsure of what she is doing I should use a foam roller to apply the poly. I did that and I'm glad I did. It made it very easy to apply, and I didn't put on too thick of a coat. After my first coat I waited about 3 hours and was horrified to see millions of little bubbles. I went to bed hoping it would be better in the morning. After drying for 12 hours I was thrilled with the results. All the bubbles had disappeared. I am certain that if I had applied the second coat when there are bubbles then I would have had them forever. They are formed by air escaping. If you recoat with bubbles present you are going to trap them. I've seen reviews with people complaining that even five coats later they still have bubbles. Well, this product was not made for five coats, and secondly you HAVE to wait until it's fully dry before applying the second coat. If you have bubbles it's not dry. I also made sure to stir this for at least five minutes to really make sure all the ingredients were mixed together.
The important things to remember when doing this are:
Stir, stir, stir before you use the product
Apply thin coats (using a foam roller if necessary)
Allow plenty of drying time. (If you have bubbles let it dry longer)
I'm very happy with the results. Everyone that comes to see the floor can't believe how good it looks. Especially considering I had no idea what I was doing! ;)
March 2, 2014
Rated 5 out of 5Â by ConcreteManByTrade Do it Right, and the results are EXCELLENT!
When trying to choose a polyurethane for my floor I carefully read all reviews (good and bad) to see if ,for the price, the product will do the job i'm looking for. I have used different polyurethane products before like on trim boards and to refinish a coffee table. The trim being hemlock took the poly great, but the coffee table did not. Not sure of what kind of wood it was, or if i hadn't gotten it sanded down enough, but it took forever to cure and developed (like some reviewers state) tiny air bubbles of which i had to sand down after 2 weeks of curing. I know now what I did wrong though. I had put a too thick of a coat on the coffee table increasing the cure time and why it created air bubbles. Knowing what i know now this is how i prepped my floor before applying the poly. My floor is a 5" tongue and groove pine. I carefully sanded it down evenly across the floor with a 220grit circular sander (enough to get any tracks from foot prints off). After sanding and a very careful cleaning of the floor I applied my stain which was the MinWax Provincial color. i made sure room temp was kept at 70 degrees the entire time. I allowed it to cure for 48 hours before applying the poly to make sure all moisture from stain had cured. I worked in my socks so i was careful not to leave prints anywhere. I applied the poly with just a cheap styrofoam stain hand brush. I worked carefully and wiped the poly evenly in thin coats across the floor. DO NOT POUR POLY DIRECTLY ON FLOOR AND WORK IT OUT! It will soak between the creaks and it will take forever to cure! Use something that your hand brush will fit easily into. Get just enough to soak the brushes and apply section by section. Careful that when you swipe the brush that you don't push globs when you're brushing. Keep a close eye on that. After I applied the poly I waited another 48 hours for the next coat. I know that others say you can do it in 24 hours but for me I found that the poly (on a test pine wood from my floor) still scratched easily. It may look like it's cured but the extra day is indeed worth waiting. For i know that others said that the 2nd coat left tiny bubbles and they had to sand it out. I NEVER had that! Its because the layer underneath hadn't completely cured is why they had the bubbles! Okay, I did the 2nd coat the same as the first, and the 3rd and final coat the same way as well. Every time waiting 48 hours in between coats. No sanding or anything. I posted pictures of the unfinished floor, stained floor, freshly coated poly, and the finished product. Hope this helps some people!
January 8, 2014
Rated 4 out of 5Â by CH2O Easier than I thought!
I had my carpet removed because I wanted to use the beauty of my 64-year old wood floors. My friend sanded the floors for me and I stained them using Minwax Red Mahogany Stain for its dark color. This was my first time ever doing anything like this and it was harder than I thought but it turned out very well. I followed the stain with the Miniwax Super Fast Drying Poly (Oil-based) for wood floors and the odor was very slight but I did have great ventilation as well. The poly went on easier than I thought it would and dried faster than anticipated. I am so excited about my "new" wood floors and I think the project turned out great. Love the Minwax products.
October 29, 2013
Rated 5 out of 5Â by Gizzy 8 years and doing well
I got this for a "cottage" I built on the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron in 2005. I placed minwax stain directly on pine flooring as heavy as I could. I mixed walnut and mahogany 50/50 for a dark color with some redness to it, and let it soak in for well over an hour. Then came back and cleaned any excess up with a towell. This process took maybe 2 hours for a 1500 sq ft first floor. I let it dry over night, With no special effort other than a lambs wool pad on a pole, I placed the first coat of the rapid dry polyurethane over the entire cottage, including the unstained floors on the loft. Took about 3 hours. I waited the 6 hours and did the second coat.
That was eight years ago. I still get compliments on the floor, and several people have done the same as I did after seeing the results. This is just used seasonally, but there is sand around the cottage, and the floor looks just as good as the day I placed the materials. Few things in my life has workrd as well!
February 17, 2013
Rated 5 out of 5Â by Tonza Floors are beautiful
I was refinishing a floor by myself for the first time, and I bought this because there wasn't much other choice. I was horrified when I later read many negative reviews online of Minwax's similar polyurethanes (fast-drying as opposed to super-fast drying, etc.) But again, I didn't have much choice, and I figured such a common brand couldn't be SO bad, right? So I went ahead.
We did one coat of Minwax stain and planned on two coats of poly according to the directions. One gallon should have been more than enough to coat the whole floor twice, according to the estimated coverage on the can. As it turned out, we did three coats, using almost two full cans. The first coat used almost a whole can by itself. I don't think I put it on too thick, because any less than that and you could see dry patches. We let it dry for a few hours and did a second coat, which only took half a can as would be expected. The second coat had a lot of bubbles in it, and I was very disappointed with how it looked. So we let it dry till the next day and then buffed it and applied a third coat. That worked like a charm. The floor is beautiful. It's too early to tell how durable it is in the long-term, but I'm very happy. Just be prepared with an extra can just in case, and be prepared to do a third coat.
January 10, 2013