Rated 2.9 out of 5Â by 8
Rated 5 out of 5Â by John Very good stuff
I've used Polyseamseal Tub and Tile only a little, in a tub/shower stall, at the point where the tub meets the tiled walls. It went on more smoothly than several other sealants I experimented with, and gave adequate work time to shape and smooth it further, without drying too soon and crinkling as I smoothed it out, as some sealants do. After two years, it still looks new, hasn't discolored, hasn't developed mold, hasn't shrunk, still feels tough, and hasn't come loose at all. Highly recommended. I wish it came in a few more colors though, including a more yellowish color to match a kitchen countertop I'd like to use it on.
December 17, 2013
Rated 1 out of 5Â by alnbama Runny, slow to skin, shrinks and cracks
The product came out of the tube very runny, making it difficult to apply. Due to this wetness it was slow
to skin resulting in a messy job. We did our tub about two months ago and the calk has already cracked and is pulling away from the tile and tub. I've had better results from contractor grade calk. Pass on the premium price and buy a better product for less money.
October 23, 2014
Rated 4 out of 5Â by iltep Good Stuff
This stuff is good because it is versatile. It can be used in the bathtub as well as drier areas. Wherever any caulk is being replaced though, the absolute imperative need to do thing is to make sure the place that is getting the caulk is not only clean, but more importantly, that it is dry. Installing any kind of caulk to a seam that has had water soaking it needs to dry completely. If you install it with too much moisture present behind the surface, caulks will not ever fully dry because they dry from the top or outside to inside. If too much latent moisture gets trapped behind that curing barrier it will eventually force its way out, bubbling that short lived nice looking caulking job you did. So how do you get all that moisture out? Use a leaf blower on high setting for about fifteen minutes. No don't do that, just kidding, use a hair dryer until you think it is dry. NOOOO don't do that either. Do this though, get some denatured alcohol when you are buying your caulk, it is very near the same place. Only use denatured because it has 0% water added to it. Put some denatured onto a rag that is lint free while wearing any kind of gloves like nitrile or latex gloves and sop the places you cleaned and are going to put any new caulk on. Then take another clean dry cloth and wipe up anything wet. The alcohol will bind with the water and excess moisture better than anything else and most of it will evaporate away before you get the chance to dry it with that dry rag. Double check once more for any wet looking spots and if it looks clean and dry, caulk away. Depending on how your caulk cures you can clean up any booboos with either a water moistened rag or a rag moistened with mineral spirits.
October 23, 2013
Rated 5 out of 5Â by JCKC Great product - Been using for over 10 years
I am a contractor and have been using this product regularly for over a decade. With proper surface preparation, Polyseamseal will perform as indicated by the company. It is easy to work with, easy to clean up, and has excellent adhesive qualities.
October 8, 2013
Rated 5 out of 5Â by chuck Some things you buy when you need them. Polyseamseal I replace it as I use it!
I have an older house which I like to restore. For painting and tiling projects I always have it on hand for patching and adhering - always.
January 11, 2014