Cutting perpendicular to the grain is called crosscutting. The key to getting the cut you want is the miter gauge, which travels in a groove on the tabletop. When properly aligned, you can set the gauge to cut a 90-degree angle, and anything up to 60 degrees on either side of 90 (depending on the saw). Before you start making cuts, however, it pays to check the alignment of the miter gauge as described below.

For reasons lost in history, miter gauges are set up so that a 90-degree cut reads 0 degrees on the miter gauge scale. A cut one degree to either side - a 91 - or an 89 - degree cut reads as 1 degree; a cut 2 degrees off square reads 2 degrees, and so on.

The only time the setting actually reflects the angle you're cutting is at 45 degrees.

A combination blade is fine for most carpentry; if you're making furniture or doing fine trimwork and aren't happy with the results your blade is giving you, have it sharpened. If you're still not happy, you may want to buy a separate crosscut blade, which will give you a smoother cut.

Feed the wood slowly to get the smoothest surface; use the guards when cutting, and keep your hands well away from the blade.

Add to Your Projects

Cutting along the grain is called ripping. The rip is made using a guide called a rip fence. Ripping is a simpler operation than crosscutting - there are no angles to set on a miter gauge - but it can bring your fingers closer to the blade. If your fingers are too close for comfort, use a push stick like the one shown below, or make your own following the pattern.

Most rip fences have a ruler glued to the front rail, which gives you a pretty accurate readout of the size piece you'll be cutting, but you should check for accuracy with your tape measure to be sure.

A roller stand as shown at right helps you support long lengths of stock while ripping.

Hold boards in place with featherboards

Long boards tend to move away from the fence during a cut. Hold them in place with featherboards - a board into which you've cut several fingers. Put the board in place and put the featherboard against it. Push against the board and flex the fingers so they bend slightly away from the direction of cut, and clamp the board in place.

Make your featherboard from a piece of wood 24 inches long and about 8 inches wide. Make a series of cuts 5 1/2 inches long and about 5/16 inch apart on the end of the board. Crosscut across the fingers, setting the miter gauge to cut along a line drawn from the corner of the board to a point 1/2 inch from the corner on the other edge.

Use a push stick

Commercial push sticks as shown at left are fine, but you can also make your own. Lay out a 1/2-inch grid on a 2 x 6 x 14-inch block and trace this pattern. Cut a curve as shown to make the push stick easier to grip. This push stick is wider than commercial models and holds stock better. When making narrow rips, you feed the push stick right across the blade. Make at least two so you'll have one for each hand.

Make your featherboard from a piece of wood 24 inches long and about 8 inches wide. Make a series of cuts 5 1/2 inches long and about 5/16 inch apart on the end of the board. Crosscut across the fingers, setting the miter gauge to cut along a line drawn from the corner of the board to a point 1/2 inch from the corner on the other edge.