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Safety Alert
Unplug the saw when making adjustments.
Take the easy way out
A moulding that has a difficult miter on one end often has a simple butt joint on the other end. If so, cut the miter first (and keep cutting until you get it right). Once the miter is ready, make a square cut at the other end to cut the piece to length.

Check the corner for square.
Mouldings that are
mitered together at an out-of-square corner will have gaps between them unless
you cut the miters at something other than 45 degrees. Check the corner with a
framing square before you start. This corner is out of square by 1/4 inch in a
little more than a foot.

Draw a line parallel to each wall.
The first step in
finding the proper miter angle is to draw a line parallel to each wall. Trace
along a piece of scrap to draw the line.

Connect the corners.
Put the handle of a T-bevel
against the wall. Set the arm so it runs from the corner of the wall to the
corner created by the lines. This is the angle at which you want to miter the
mouldings.

Set the saw to match the T-bevel.
If the baseboard
were narrower, you could just set the back against the fence to make the cut.
The baseboard on this project is too tall for this saw to cut, however, unless
you lay the baseboard flat on the bed. Clamp the saw to the fence, and
temporarily hold the guard out of the way with a pencil while you set the saw
to the proper angle.

Miter the moulding.
Put the moulding in the box face
down, with the bottom edge against the fence, and make the cut. Miter the
second moulding face down with the top edge against the fence. If you can make
the cut with the moulding standing up, make the first cut with the saw set to
one side, then reset the saw to the other side to miter the second piece.

Check the miters.
When set in place against the wall,
the mouldings should form a tight corner with no gaps. If not, check your
settings, and recut before nailing the moulding in place.
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