DIY Built-In Bookshelves

The first step in your project is to measure the height, width, depth and length of the area where you want to build your shelves. Use a standard tape measure or a laser measurer for precise results.

• The height of the example built-in shelves will be 1 inch short of the ceiling. If your shelves are deeper than the example, which is 12 inches, including the face frame, the distance from the ceiling may need to be more than an inch for the bookcase to be set upright in the room. If this is the case, a nailer for the crown molding may need to be added after the unit has been lifted into its upright position.
• When measuring the height of the shelves, measure from the floor away from the baseboard or moldings.
• Make note of the measurement from the floor to the bottom edge of the crown molding. A shelf board will be placed here to give the crown a place to land.
• Also note the height of the baseboard. The bottom shelf will be placed at that height.

The built-in bookshelves will become part of the home's permanent decor. You want to make sure that they are built from materials that will match the trimwork in your home.

The materials will vary based on the dimensions of your shelves and the desired finish. In our example, 1x12 pine lumber is used because it fit the space and is easy to work with. In other cases, it would be advisable to use plywood and cut the pieces to the correct size.

If a stained wood finish is desired, hardwood veneer plywood with a matching solid hardwood face frame is a good choice. Building the shelves from plywood is less expensive that using solid hardwood for the entire build.

Before the work starts, consider the moldings and ensure that you can find or recreate a matching pattern. Baseboard patterns are usually easier to find and install, crown patterns may be more difficult to duplicate and they're more difficult to install. If needed, shelves can be integrated with the baseboard but end below the crown. This still gives the built-in look while avoiding the most difficult part of the project.

The upright sides shoould be the same length. If the floor isn't level, shims will be used to level the shelving unit.

• Cut the boards for the side panels. The length of the panels is the measurement from the floor to 1 inch short of the ceiling.
• Next, cut the shelves. They should be 1 1/2 inches shorter than the unit’s overall width.
• Cut the long face frame pieces from 1x2 lumber. The long pieces will be the same as the sides of the shelving unit.
• The short face frame pieces will be 1-1/2 inches shorter than the length of the shelves. If preferred, these can be measured and cut more acurrately after the unit is assembled and the sides of the face frame have been installed.

Note: The face frame and the backing plywood strengthen the shelves and help prevent sagging in the middle.

Place the two uprights face to face and flush at the ends. Mark the shelf layout, using a tape measure and square.

The highest shelf should be placed so that the bottom edge of the crown molding lands on the face frame. The lowest shelf should be placed so that the top edge of the baseboard will land on the face frame.

The remaining shelves can be spaced as needed. Often, bookshelves have larger spaces between the lower shelves and smaller spaces betwen the upper shelves. Built-in shelving units often have larger openings at eye level for decor items other than books, or the top shelf can have large space above it for decor. The shelf layout is custom and you're free to make it whatever you want.

If you don't have a custom spacing in mind, measure the books and other items you'll be likely to display.

Use glue and a finish nailer to attch the shelves. Use the square to ensure that the shelves are aligned properly.

After each shelf is in place, drill 2 pilot holes and attach with screws. Pocket holes can be used if the shelves will be stained but the screws can be driven through the face of the uprights if the shelves are to be painted. If painting, use wood filler to cover the screw heads.

In the example, the shelves are in fixed locations. If you prefer, some shelves can be made adjustable. The top, bottom, and center shelves should be in fixed locations, glued and screwed in place to ensure the stability of the unit. Use a shelf pin jig to locate the hole locations for adjustable shelves. The face frame on movable shelves should be measured and cut after the unit is installed. Put the shelf in place and measure. The frame piece should be about 1/16 short on each end to allow the shelf to be moved.

Cut a sheet piece of 1/4 inch plywood to the dimensions of the shevling unit.

With the shelving unit lying face-down on the floor, measure diagonals to ensure that it's square. This is done by measuring from opposing corners and adjusting the unit until the the numbers match.

Apply a moderate amount of wood glue to the back edges of the shelves and uprights, then lay the plywood in place.

Start at one corner of the unit, driving a nail every 6-12 inches. It may be nessecary to make small adjustments to the alignment as you proceed around the perimeter of the shelving unit.

Use a square or a chalk line to make a line across the back of the plywood where the fixed shelf locations are. Drive a nail every 6 inches across the back of the shelves.

Before lifting the shelving unit into place, use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Measure it from the wall and transfer that measurement to the back of the unit.

Stand the unit upright and move it to it place on the wall. Place a level on one of the shelves, front to back, and use shims underneath the side panels to level it. It should be touching the wall at the top, if not, use a shim to take us the space between it and the wall, and use a drill or impact driver to drive a 1-1/2 inch screw through the plywood and into the wall stud.

Trim the shims under the shelves so they aren't in the way of the molding.

Before finishing with paint or stain, install the baseboard and crown molding.

Measure and cut molding to fit and attach with finish nails. Fill the nail holes with wood filler and sand until smooth and level with the surface.

Look over the entire project to find any rough spots that need to be sanded or dings that need to be filled.

It's common to have some small gaps around wodwork where it comes in contact with walls. These can be filled with painter's caulk. Read the instructions on the pacakge regarding how long it should dry before painting.

If staining, it will be better to stain before caulking, then find a caulk that matches the stain color or the color of the painted walls adjacent to it.

Apply a coat of your choice of paint or wood stain.

Stained wood can be finished with a coat of polyurethane wood finish to protect the shelves.

The most popular option is to finish built-ins the same as the trim in the room. However, contrsting finish can also look good. How you proceed depends on what you like and your sense of style.

Dress your DIY built-in bookshelves with books and decor.