How to Maintain a Wood Deck

Routinely inspecting your deck is key to good deck maintenance. As a matter of course, observe your deck's structure and note any problems you'll need to correct to keep your deck in good shape. It's a good idea to add "inspect deck" to your spring and fall home maintenance checklists.

Follow these steps to inspect your deck:

• Start by checking the wood where the ledger board meets your house. This spot is important because it's where your deck connects to your home and it's a magnet for moisture. Water can seep in behind the ledger board, and over time, the trapped moisture leads to rot that weakens the structure.
• Next, take a close look at the base of your stairs, at the point where they touch the ground. The constant contact with soil and standing water makes stair bottoms prone to soft, decaying wood, so poke around with a screwdriver or awl to check for spongy spots.
• Give your railings a good wiggle and lean into them a bit. They should feel rock-solid. Loose railings are a genuine safety hazard, especially if someone puts their full weight on one during a backyard get-together. Tighten any wobbly connections right away.
• Look for exposed nails poking up on the decking. Nails are trip hazards waiting to happen. Pry them out and swap them for wood screws, which grip better and won't work their way loose over time.
• While you're replacing nails or adding screws, fill holes or small cracks in the boards with exterior wood filler. This keeps water from settling in and causing bigger problems down the road.
• Look at the rest of your hardware too, like brackets, connectors and fasteners. If any are rusted, they're top priority for replacement.

Occasionally, a deck board splits, warps or rots to the point where patching just won't cut it. When that happens, replacing it is a straightforward fix that can be accomplished in an afternoon. Here's how:

• When spotting a problem board, look for cracks, soft spongy spots or wood that flexes when you step on it. Use a claw hammer and gently work the board loose. Slide the claw under the board near each fastener and pry up slowly, taking care not to gouge or crack the boards on either side. If nails or screws fight back, work them out one at a time so you don't split the surrounding wood.
• Next, measure the gap and cut a replacement to fit. Match the same wood, width and thickness as your existing boards so it sits flush and even. Stain the board to match your deck.
• Set the new board in place and fasten it using a power drill with a screw bit, using deck screws for a solid, long-lasting hold. Drive the screws in line with the others for a clean, uniform finish.
• The replacement boards will stand out compared to older, more weathered boards, but will fade over time to blend in with your deck.

Tip: If several boards need swapping, consider replacing them all at once. You'll get a fresh, even appearance and improved structural integrity across the deck.

Make cleaning your deck part of your annual home maintenance schedule. Experts recommend cleaning your deck when you have a stretch of mild, dry weather. Springtime is ideal, since it clears away winter grime and gets your deck ready for the warm weather entertaining season ahead.

Follow these steps for cleaning your deck:

• Clear the deck first. Move patio furniture, toys and potted plants out of the way so you have a clean, open surface to work on.
• Sweep the deck to remove loose dirt and leaves.
• Slide a putty knife between deck boards to lift out debris brooms and brushes can't reach. Trapped gunk holds moisture, which speeds up rot.
• Spray on a biodegradable outdoor cleaner that tackles mildew. Read labels and choose products that will not harm plants.
• Work the cleaner in the deck boards with a stiff-bristle brush, using an extension handle, if necessary.
• Rinse everything off with a garden hose until the water runs clear.
• You can use a pressure washer to clean your deck, too. Follow directions to avoid damaging the deck planks. Use a low setting and a fan spray nozzle, and check the maker's guidance for your wood type. Never pressure wash a composite deck, as it can damage the surface.

Tip: Clean wood railings from the bottom up. Scrubbing top-down splatters cleaner onto dry wood and leaves marks, while working upward hits an already-wet surface.

Wood decks need a protective coating of stain or sealant to help protect them from weather extremes and keep your deck looking good for longer. Some types of stain or sealant require a fresh application every few years for best results.

Follow these tips for preparing to stain or seal your deck:

• Allow a new, unsealed deck to weather for 60 to 90 days before staining.
• Conduct a water drop test by pouring a few drops of water on a deck board. If the board absorbs the water, the deck needs sealing. If the water beads, the wood is already sealed and may only need cleaning, unless you want to change its appearance.
• Cover nearby plants or shrubs with plastic sheeting to make sure they don’t get spattered with cleaner or stain.
• Apply painter’s tape along where the deck meets the side of the house to avoid getting stain on your home.
• Use a paint scraper to remove loose paint or opaque deck stain.
• Use a stiff scrub brush to remove flaking stain or dirt.
• Before staining or sealing a deck, clean the deck as described in Step 3.

Tip: Do not use a metal brush on cedar or redwood, as the bristles can scar the soft wood.

If you're planning to stain your deck, you'll want to sand it first. Decks need a smooth, freshly sanded surface to soak up stain and develop long-lasting, even color. Sanding also knocks down rough patches, leaving you with a splinter-free deck that feels good underfoot at your next barbecue.

Here's how to sand your deck:

• Use an orbital sander to strip off any old, worn gloss and smooth out rough spots. Use 60- or 80-grit sandpaper for these surfaces to cut through the tough stuff.
• Curved or narrow spots like railings are tricky for a big sander, so switch to a sanding sponge that bends and flexes to reach all the angles.
• Since hands touch handrails constantly, use 80- or 100-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish that's kind to your palms.
• Once you're done sanding, use a shop vacuum to thoroughly vacuum the whole deck. This ensures that leftover dust won't ruin the fresh finish.

Tip: Protect your eyes and lungs by always wearing a dust mask and safety goggles when sanding treated wood.

Before applying a stain or sealant, make sure the deck has dried for at least two days.

• Begin by applying stain or sealant to handrails using a paint brush or paint sprayer, starting at the top and working down to the deck surface.
• Choose the right brush for your product. Use a natural-bristle brush to apply oil-based products and a synthetic-bristle brush with water-based stains.
• Then stain or seal the surface decking boards. Use a roller attached to an extension pole to spread the stain, and then back-brush it with a stain brush.
• Alternatively, you can use a flat pad applicator. This method works quickly like using a roller and requires no back-brushing. However, it is not as efficient for reaching spaces between the boards.
• Let the stain soak according to instructions and remove excess with a paint rag.
• Avoid applying stain in direct sunlight. Stain needs time to absorb into the wood but dries quickly.
• Porous wood may require a second coat of staining sealer for even coverage.
• Most decks do not require sealant on the underside, especially when made of pressure treated wood.
• Stay off the deck for at least 24 hours until it has dried completely.
• Remove painter’s tape and return furnishings to their desired place.

Tip: Work in small sections to ensure consistent coverage and uniform color.

Keep your deck looking its best with these tips:

• Periodically rearrange your outdoor furniture, including planters, toys and grills, to prevent sunlight from causing mismatched color patches.
• Avoid using rugs or mats made of natural materials, which can trap moisture. Plastic or synthetic outdoor rugs are less likely to have this problem.
• Trim nearby bushes and trees to at least 12 inches from the deck to discourage moss, mold and rot.
• If your inspection finds boards that are warped or raised, smooth them with an orbital sander to level them with the surrounding boards.
• If using multiple containers of the same stain or color product, mix them together in a bucket to ensure that the color is uniform.
• Consider applying a waterproofing solution with a pump sprayer. Apply the waterproofing solution directly to dry boards and let cure for 24 hours, according to manufacturer's directions. Fill cracks with wood filler, spackle or caulk, then sand until smooth.
• Most composite decking does not require sealants, but some can be stained with product designed for composites to restore or improve their appearance.