Build a do-it-yourself dog house for your prized pup, complete with stairs and a rooftop sun deck. The hybrid design combines a simple box structure and proper frame-building construction.
This guide will teach you how to build a dog house step-by-step so you can make your dog the envy of the neighborhood.
Tip: This guide teaches you how to build a dog house using specific dog house designs. If you're interested in a home for your furry friend that requires less time to put together, check out our dog house kits.
Safety: No matter how nice your DIY dog house is, remember to monitor outdoor weather anytime your pet is out of doors. Allow them back inside if the weather becomes too hot or the rain or wind is too strong for animals to handle.
What You Need
• One 8-foot x 2 x 4-inch
• Two 10-foot x 2 x 4-inch
• Seven 8-foot 1 x 6-inch
• Once 8-foot 1 x 4-inch
Eight 8-foot x 2 x 3-inch studs
- Two 4 x 8-foot siding panels
One 4 x 8-foot, 15/32-inch plywood sheet
One 1# box 3-inch nails
One 1# box 2-inch nails
Two 10-foot drip edge flashings
- Roof shingles
- Pressure-treated lumber
- • Two 8-foot x 1 x 6-inch
- • Five 8-foot x 1 x 4-inch
- • Five 8-foot x 2 x 2-inch
• To build this custom dog house, cut three 2- x 4-inch studs to 5 feet in length, and two 2- x 4-inch studs to 4 feet.
• Frame a box with one board as a center support to create a 48-inch wide x 63-inch long base to attach the floorboards on top using 3-inch galvanized nails.
• Cut 11 1- x 6-inch boards 48 inches long.
• Use the 3-inch galvanized nails to nail in the two end floor boards first, and then evenly space the rest of the floor boards about ¼ inch apart.
• Since this house needs no rafters, pitch the side wall top plates to match the roof pitch. Do this by cutting the wall studs at an angle.
• Cut four 2- x 3-inch pieces each 39 inches long for the top and bottom plates.
• Set your miter saw to 18.5 degrees, then measure out and mark a 2- x 3-inch stud at 2 feet.
• Cut this stud so that the 18.5 degrees extends, rather than reduces, the length of the stud.
• Repeat this twice so you have three left-side angled wall studs. For the three right side studs, repeat as above but mark the initial length at 3 feet.
• Assemble the walls with 3-inch nails through the top and bottom plates. The third wall stud should be centered.
• Set the left side wall frame on the platform along the left rear edge and nail it in through the base plate with 3-inch nails.
• Cut one 2- x 3-inch piece 31 inches long and set it along the back platform edge. This represents the rear wall length.
• Set the right wall against this board and measure the front edge so it also sits 31 inches in from the left wall. Nail this right wall onto the platform using 3-inch nails.
• Cut two 2- x 3-inch pieces 8 ½ inches long to serve as the front bottom plates on either side of the door, which is a 14-inches-wide opening.
• Rather than measure the studs and top plates, mark the lengths and angles by holding a roughly 33-inch top plate in place between the side walls and setting the studs in place one at a time.
• You will need studs at each end, one in the back wall centered, and two framing the doorway in the front for a total of seven.
• Assemble the wall frames and nail them both to the platform as well as the side wall studs using 3-inch galvanized nails.
• Cut the siding into three pieces 41 inches square and one at 41 x 29 inches.
• Set the front piece in place and mark the outside edges.
• Also mark the doorway cutout against the studs. You can make the height any dimension you want, but follow the roofline angle for your cutout.
• Nail the siding in with 2-inch galvanized nails and repeat with the other three walls.
• As an option, you can cut leftover siding into corner strip accents as shown in this picture.
• Cut 1 -x 6-inch boards to create a 2-inch overhang roof edge on all sides and nail these boards to the top plates.
• Cut the plywood into a 4-foot square and set it on top of the roof edging.
• Scribe the actual size and cut the lines to fit.
• Nail in the plywood roof with 2-inch galvanized nails.
• Set, mark and cut drip edge to length and nail into place along the roof perimeter, starting at the left wall and working your way up.
• Install the shingles, using a starter strip along the left wall edge.
• Use the utility knife to trim the shingles to fit.
• Always work up from the lowest roof edge.
• To make the perimeter upper deck frame, cut 2- x 2-inch boards to match the outside edges of the roof and assemble the frame with 3-inch deck screws.
• Cut two 16- x 2- x 2-inch deck support pieces.
• Set the frame on the roof. Bring the low end up to level and use a piece of scrap wood to prop it in place.
• Set and mark the final height of the supports as they sit vertically on the roof extending up to the inside corner of the frame.
• Cut and screw these supports into the frame.
• Screw the supports into the roof on the low side, and the frame directly onto the roof on the high side. Remove the scrap piece.
• Cut 10 1- x 4-inch boards to length front to back, space them evenly and screw them onto the deck perimeter frame.
• Cut 22 9- x 2- x 2-inch baluster pieces for the railing.
• Screw in five on each of the front, back and left sides, evenly spaced on the outside of the decking.
• Using 2- x 2-inch boards, make a 12- x 18-inch box to serve as the stair landing.
• Attach this with screws to the right rear side of the platform.
• Use a roughly 3-foot piece of 2- x 4-inch left over from the platform to construct a prop column running vertically from the right rear platform corner up to the landing.
• Cut five 1- x 4-inch boards 12 inches long to finish the deck. Now, attach the remaining balusters and cut 2- x 2-inch railings to fit the entire perimeter.
• The ladder is built from 1- x 6-inch boards.
• Cut one end of a 1- x 8-inch board at a 45-degree angle.
• Set it on the platform edge near the front and write down the corresponding length that reaches the landing. It should be about 5 feet long at 45 degrees.
• Now, make a duplicate so you have two identical stair stringers.
• Each stair tread is 9 inches wide and set at a 45-degree angle so they become level when the ladder is installed.
• We used six treads in this project, but for smaller dogs you may want to make more.
• Attach one tread at the very top and bottom and space the rest evenly up the ladder. Set it in place and screw it into both the landing and the platform.