Build a DIY TV stand to store your electronics
What You Need
- Five 2- x 2-inch x 8-foot lumber rails
- Two 1- x 4-inch x 8-foot common board
- ½-inch x 4- x 8-foot plywood
- ¼-inch x 2- x 4-foot project panel
- Four cabinet hinges
- 1-inch course pocket hole screws
- #14 2 ½-inch course pocket hole screws
- 1 ¼-inch finish nails
- ¾-inch finish nails
- 220-grit sand paper
Mark the lumber according to the following cut lists:
• Cut the 2- x 2-inch x 8-foot lumber:
• 6 rails – 45 inches
• 4 legs – 32 inches
• 4 end rails – 13 inches
• Cut the ½-inch x 4- x 8-foot plywood:
• 2 shelves (top and bottom) – 16 x 48-inch
• 1 middle shelf – 16 x 47-inch
• 2 side panels – 13 x 32-inch
• Cut the 1-inch x 4- x 8-foot plywood:
• 3 feet pieces – 2 ½ x 16-inch
• 4 door trim (top and bottom pieces) – 23-inch
• 4 door trim sides – 18-inch
• Cut the ¼-inch x 2- x 4-foot project panel:
• 2 doors – 18- x 23-inch
Use a circular saw to cut along all of your markings and set aside the lumber, labeling each piece with your pencil so you can remember its intended purpose.
• On the six rails you just cut, measure and mark points at 5, 22 ½ and 40 inches.
• Set the jig and bit for 3/4 inches and drill a pocket hole at each mark.
• On the four end rails, measure and mark points at 3 ½ and 9 ¾ inches
• Drill 1 1/2-inch pocket holes at each mark on the end rails.
• Start constructing the frames that will make up the front and back of the TV stand – each frame is made up of three horizontal rails and two vertical legs.
• Measure and mark a line 12 inches from the top of each leg. These will be the guides for placing the middle shelf.
• Lay out the pieces with all pocket holes facing upward.
• The pocket holes of the upper two rails should be aligned toward what will be the top of the TV stand.
• The bottom rails should be flipped with pocket holes aimed toward the bottom shelf.
• Set the jig and bit to 1 ½ inches.
• Drill pocket holes into the rails ¾ inches in on each end.
• Apply wood glue to the ends of the rails and place between the two legs at the line you drew in the last step.
• Screw together with the 2 ½-inch pocket screws and allow to dry.
• Repeat to create the second frame.
• Measure and mark a ½-inch inset from the edge of each leg.
Tip: This half-inch inset lines will make positioning the end rails easier when they are installed.
• Attach the feet to the underside of the bottom shelf, so the outer feet are flush with each end and the third foot is centered.
• Pre-drill and use glue and the 1 ¼-inch wood screws to hold in place.
• Use three screws to attach each leg: one in the center one on each side at 2 inches.
• Apply glue to the underside of one of the frames.
• Use clamps to hold the frame and the bottom shelf together, making sure all edges are flush and the pocket holes are toward what will be the inside of the stand.
• Use 1-inch wood screws to attach the frame to the bottom shelf and allow the glue to dry.
• Add the other frame in the same way.
• Use a jig saw to notch the middle shelf in 1 inch from the side and 1 ½ inches in from the front at each corner. This notch should fit around the legs.
• Set the shelf aside.
• Apply glue to the ends of two of the end rails and align them with the ½-inch inset mark and 12-inch marks on the leg of the frame.
• Use the rubber mallet and clamps to make sure the rails are flush and aligned properly.
• Secure in place with the 2 ½-inch screws.
• Position the top end rails flush with the tops of the legs and the ½-inch inset guidelines.
• Clamp each top rail.
• Use 1 ¼-inch screws to secure the top shelf from below, then attach the side panels using glue and finishing nails.
• Spread wood glue across the tops of the middle shelf supports.
• Drop the middle shelf into place and hold to the supports with clamps.
• Drive 1-inch screws into the pocket holes on the support rails to secure.
• Allow the glue time to dry.
• Secure the top shelf with 1-inch screws from below.
• Attach side panels using glue and finishing nails.
• If you choose to add decorative moulding to the top and bottom of your TV stand, make sure your bottom moulding selection doesn’t exceed four inches or it will interfere with the operation of the doors.
• Make simple 45-degree miter cuts in the moulding – this is where they will join at the corner.
• Attach the moulding using glue and finishing nails. Don’t worry too much about small gaps at the joints of the molding, those can filled with wood putty.
Tip: Remember that if you intend to stain your TV stand, make sure you use a molding made of wood and not MDF molding. MDF is fine if you’re just going to paint, but will not properly absorb stain.
• Use a miter saw to cut the trim at 45-degree angles.
• Attach the trim to the project panels using clamps and finishing nails.
• Attach the door hinges and pull knobs.
• Mount the door with hinge screws.
• Fill any gaps and nail holes with wood putty.
• Sand the entire project with 220-grit sandpaper and dust off prior to painting or staining your finished project.