|Assembled Depth (in.)||0.3 in||Assembled Height (in.)||6.65 in|
|Assembled Width (in.)||2.1 in||Blade Length (in.)||0 in|
|Blade Width (in.)||1/32"||Saw Blade Width (in.)||0.06 in|
|Blade Type||T-Shank||Color Family||Silver|
|Material Cut||Wood||Number in Package||5.0|
|Number of Teeth||14||Power Tool Accessory Type||Jig Saw Blade|
|Returnable||90-Day||Saw Blade Material||BiMetal|
|Teeth Per Inch||14||Tools Product Type||Power Tool|
A: The T503 Jigsaw Blade is a T-shank type. If your DeWalt Jigsaw accepts T-shank blades, then it should work. For further assistance, contact us at 1-877-BOSCH99 (1-877-267-2499) from Mon-Fri 7A-7P CST.
A: I use them with a Dewalt jigsaw and they work great.
A: Thank you for your question. When cutting materials using a jigsaw with blade T503 for laminate, it should be facing down for safety purposes. For further assistance, contact us at 1-877-BOSCH99 (1-877-267-2499) from Mon-Fri 7A-7P CST.
A: Laminate flooring should be cut face up.
A: Generally the finished face of the material would face the shoe of the saw. These laminate flooring blades are designed for laminate. The teeth on the blade are not raked ( they do not point up or down on the blade ) to prevent chipping caused by the rake of the blade.
A: It doesn’t seem to matter - both sides are clean cuts.
A: Difficult question to answer without writing a small book so here goes. Face Down would be optimum but not always practical so each cut can be unique such as around corners or under things, anything that is. Straight cuts are easily done face down and the cut off can be used to start the next row, provided it's at least 6 inches in length. Your question is about vinyl laminate flooring and these blades are actually for laminate flooring made of wood or some sort of composite wood or simulated wood. These blades probably won't cut vinyl as easily as a utility blade and straight edge or square. If your flooring is vinyl laminate then you won't need these jigsaw blades but rather a utility knife and speed square. Also you can use tin snipes or utility scissors for cutting around corners or odd shapes or short angles. Vinyl Laminate is cut face down as well with a few full scores of the blade then try bending it to see if it snaps; if not a few more scores with the utility blade should be enough as you do not need to cut all the way through. Your cut should get covered so it does not need to be as clean as you'd think. As long as it's not going to be seen it does not need to be a perfect cut but straight is always nice. You can clean up the edge with the utility blade but it would be more of a waste of time as trim should cover your cut. Vinyl Flooring moves. Meaning changes in hot and cold will cause it to move sometimes more than a 1/4 inch. Make sure when installing it you have room under your base moldings or cabinet's or what ever you are doing to allow for movement. If you install this too tight it will pop up between the joints and if too lose the joints will gap as it moves. It's great stuff to work with you just need to know it moves and allow for that movement. I don't mean it will move or slide as you walk on it but rather as the room heats and cools it expands and contracts many times during the day. You won't see it move unless it's installed wrong. Once it's down it should be good for decades to come. Many times I've cut Vinyl Flooring and out of a full box had just a few scraps as easily well over 95% of every box was usable. Out of 20 Full Boxes maybe 10 pieces of scrap or waste, not counting messed up cuts or wrong angle cuts; those are just going to happen no matter how many times you measure. Best part is as long as you have a Factory Edge that piece may be usable as a starter or end piece so not really wasted. Norm, from "This Old House" says to "measure twice and cut once" and I say that only works for NORM... LOL... I can't tell you how many times I've measured upside down only to end up reading the tape backwards and cut too short; it just happens. Don't get too caught up in patterns as the more mixed the lines are the better the floor will look over all. Try not to match joint lines between rows and try to stagger them by at least 6 inches when ever possible between rows. It may seem like chaos at first but when you are finished the more the lines are mixed the better the project will be. Start your 1st row by cutting the first piece in half, then run full pieces to see how it ends. If you are lucky the end piece will be about half or close to it, Then Run a full piece and hope the last is a cut of about 6 inches or so. Then start with that piece and hope the last piece of the 3rd row is almost 2 feet. As you get going you will get use to mixing things up. Every once in awhile use cuts to make sure that each row is different. Something like 19", 36", 8", 15" to start your first 4 rows then try not to repeat any starting numbers and you can differ 4 or 6 rows away by an inch or two but not 2 rows away as you don't want joint lines too close to each other. Too many times folks try to lay the flooring in a way to line up all the lines and as soon as you are off by just a little not only will that seam stick out like a sore thumb but the remainder of the floor will be off as well. Not only that but the waste is almost 70% when you try and line things up. So mix up the lines and mix often and make sure to mix up the rows as much as possible, the less the lines match the better the floor will be over all.. I hope this helps...
A: Yes they cut very well will be using them for a lot of projects!
A: It depends on how think the flooring is. Many times a utility knife is the best to use with Vinyl Flooring. Now if it's very think and a Utility Knife will not scratch it, then yes this would be the perfect blade. Laminated Flooring is very dense as it is very fine sawdust compressed together with a very strong adhesive. A special blade is required for a few reasons; mainly to be able to cut the material cleanly. As you can see the teeth are very tiny and able to cut Nails and general light metals so Vinyl Flooring will be a breeze for these blades... I hope this helps...
A: No, these blades will not work for ever single jigsaw. You need to know that one key property of a jigsaw blade is the type of shank. These are T-Shank blades, which should work with most modern jigsaws. However, older saws may need a U shank or Universal blade (which is not universal either - ha! )
A: Not exactly, they can be used in Any Jigsaw that offers the T Style Shank. Jig Saws have two types of chucks, 1 that requires some sort of tool and the other is Toolless. The older style requires some sort of tool such as an Allen Key or Screw Driver and the blade has a U at the end plus a hole near the end also where it is inserted into the chuck. The newer T style blade, which these blades are, sort of looks like a T with no hole and is used in Twist Style Quick Connect Toolless Chuck. If your Jig Saw is Toolless more than likely it will use this T Style Blade. I believe this blade is offered in both styles, you just have to determine which style is required for your tool. If, however, you do get the wrong blade you should be able to return these blades and switch them for the right blades.
A: Thank you for your question. The T503 blade set can be used with jigsaws that accept T-shank blades. If your jigsaw accepts U-shank blades use Model #U503 laminate flooring U shank jigsaw blade set.
A: these blades can be used with a t shank saw.
A: Only if the jigsaw accepts T shank blades.