GUH Series 80% 88000 BTU Input and 71000 BTU Output Natural Gas Hot Air Furnace

Can this be converted to propane

This unit can be used in up flow or horizontal flow applications.

Like most gas furnaces there is no filter in this furnace. The Filter would be installed in a filter rack on the return air cabinet. The size of the filter installed would depend on both the size of the return air duct work and the type of filter selected. For example in my home I installed a very large return air cabinet as to not have restriction in air flow that could result in unwanted noise. I also chose a very thick filter. So mine is 32" x 32" x 3" but that is over kill.

I don't think I can answer your question with a definitive yes or no answer. I would think there would be some double wide manufactured homes it could work in, and I think there would be others that like many mobile homes would have duct work below the floor and require a down flow furnace specifically certified for manufactured homes. As codes are different all over the country I would put that question to either a qualified licensed contractor or the code enforcement official in your area.

I cannot give you a definitive answer on that, as it is an issue of code. You would need to consult a qualified licensed contractor in your area, or the local code informant official; aka the inspector. However can tell you what I believe there two major concerns will be. First, they will look at the required setbacks for this piece of equipment to make sure there is enough distance between the unit and the walls and ceiling. Second and possibly more important will be the issue of makeup air. When you burn fuel you consume oxygen. A tremendous amount of oxygen in fact. So there needs to be a supply of fresh air to the unit. Allow me to give you an example of what I mean. My home was constructed so tight that if I leave my furnace room door closed, all the oxygen will be consumed by the flame and the flame will out. Eventually I had to install a makeup air appliance. Now when the furnace operates this fan device turns on and pulls air in from outside of my home. It actually pressurizes the furnace room. Make up air is critical to safe efficient combustion. It is always a critical factor and becomes more so the smaller the area around the appliance.

Yes this product needs a flue. If you consult the use and care manual found under the header “Info and Guides” on the Home Depot product listing page this is further called out. Let me further say for your benefit and that of others that may read this, that a flue is not just an exhaust pipe. A flue is a machine that creates draft. You will notice that the efficiency designed into this piece of equipment is 80%. The engineers that designed this are intentionally leaving 20% of the heat in the flue gas; which makes it still hot. Because it is hot it rise up the flue/chimney. This creates a suction that pulls more combustion air into the firing chamber. This is called the natural draft process. The chimney is part of the system. Now if you don’t want to use a chimney to create the draft, it can be artificially done with what is called a powerventor. However if you are going to power vent you don’t need to leave that much heat in the exhaust. So in those situations most people would opt for a higher efficiency unit that direct vents through the wall.

I see three likely problems with that. First every mobile home I have ever dealt wih was designed for a specifc furnace branded as Miller that fits into a tight cabinet. Second all mobile homes I know of reguire a down flow furnace as the duct work is below the floor. and Third all the states I have ever worked in have specif code requirements for furnaces used in mobile homes. Thus I am all but positive you would not want to use a furnace like this. To be sure I would speak to a liscenced contractor in your area or the local inspector.

This unit can be used in Up Flow or Horizontal applications. However it can not be used in Down Flow applications. Under "Info and Guides" on the Home Depot product listing page you will find PDF's of certain pieces of product literature. The use and care manual offers specifics on both up flow and horizontal installations.

I checked with the manufacture and they do not publish a DB rating for this furnace. That is what I expected given my experience as a trades person. Allow me to elaborate. The vast majority of noise produced in a hot air heating system is not produced by the furnace. It is produced by the air moving through the duct work. The same unit in two different systems is going to produce very different amounts of sound. It all depends on how thoughtful the person was that did the sizing of the unit and duct reduction. If the duct work is sized properly, and reduces appropriately as travels from the furnace you will not get a lot of sound of air movement. However if it was done haphazardly and not from a place of experience it can be very noisy. My point is that the furnace is only one component in the system. As such it is only as good as its weakest link. For example. I changed my oil furnace a year ago. I ran it before I hooked up the ductwork and return air cabinet. It was almost silent. But when I hooked it up to the new plenum and return air cabinet I could hear it. In fact it got very loud. Eventually I changed the squirrel blower unit and replaced the positively commutated electric motor with an electronically commutated motor. Not only does this type of motor use less power but ECM motors don’t have capacitors so they are much quieter on start up.

That would depend on the both your mechanical acumen and the code in your state. I would suggest you contact the code enforcement official in your area.