For DIYers and professional tradesmen who recognize the importance of going green and using natural timber harvested in a responsible manner, turn to this FSC-certified PureBond Red Oak Plywood from Columbia Forest Products. Each panel features a decorative red oak veneer on the face, which exudes the warmth and beauty of natural hardwood to supply your carpentry creations with visual allure. Furthermore, the 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. panels are manufactured with a soy-based PureBond technology that is formaldehyde-free so it won’t deteriorate air quality, as is common with UF-constructed sheets that are susceptible to releasing airborne contaminants over time. Intended for interior use, these red oak plywood panels are an affordable way to craft authentic hardwood-faced masterpieces such as built-in cabinets, entertainment centers, tables, shelves, headboards, wall panels and more. With an eye toward sustainability, Columbia takes pride in manufacturing this Earth-conscious product and takes seriously its responsibility in replenishing forests for future generations.
Certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) as a responsibly harvested timber product, which means your purchase supports healthy, sustainable forests
Hardwood plywood is assembled with smooth, patch-free red oak face and back veneers
PureBond hardwood plywood is an environmentally friendly, cost-competitive alternative to panels manufactured with urea formaldehyde (UF), which may degrade air quality over time
Contains 100% natural wood bonded with a food-grade soy-based adhesive that does not emit toxic air contaminants
Decorative top and bottom veneers, measuring approximately 1/42" thick, exhibit the beauty and timeless quality of natural hardwood and are suitable for painting or staining
Water-resistant composition has a higher moisture tolerance than UF panels and is less likely to warp than solid wood
Allow panel to acclimate to interior climate conditions for several days before customizing - for interior applications only
For best cutting results, use an 80-tooth (or greater) table saw blade intended for sheet goods or a carbide-tipped circular saw plywood blade
Common: 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.; actual: 0.703 in. x 48 in. x 96 in.
Direction of the grain is the length of panel
Each panel weighs approximately 70 lbs.
Grade: C-3 - see grading guide for additional information
Product warranted against glue or bond failure. Product replacement provided.
Questions & Answers
Can this be used as sublfoor?
Asked by Angeltol July 24, 2020
No, I do not recommend that this material be used as subfloor. While structurally this material would work fine, it is designed to be used to make furniture and cabinets where the surface will be visible. That is the reason for the premium price. The best material for your subfloor would be OSB ( Oriented Strand Board).
is this good as memory foam mattress base on top of slats
Asked by mila June 14, 2020
Yes this should work fine for that application
do you carry an A-1 or A-2 oak plywood?
Asked by Lori March 18, 2020
Depends on location
I want to make a bunkie board to reinforce my queen size platform bed before I put a mattress on ...
Asked by Cynthia October 17, 2019
I didn't use mine for a platform bed but for wide shelving. I would guess it would work as platform base. The 3/4" board was solid. You probably would need some sort of support in the middle though. I would definitely do a fine sanding on it since you're planning on putting a mattress. Don't want any snagging.
Can you cut it to size for me?
Asked by Mark November 15, 2018
Yes, Home Depot has a panel saw. It doesn't have finish blades so you will have some clean-up to do.
IS THIS LUMBER MADE IN USA?
Asked by SHER October 23, 2018
Yes, the product is made in either Oregon or North Carolina by Columbia Forest Products.
Can this be used for a wheelchair ramp?
Asked by SusieB September 6, 2018
Only indoors over framing see Ada requirements
How well does this product miter? Will the veneer chip off along the mitered edge?
Asked by Woody July 1, 2018
The veneer is about 1/16 thin , with the correct marples blade and techniques it can be done depending on finish level.
Can this be used to make exterior porch columns that I will be staining?
Asked by Mike June 27, 2018
No this is an interior product , I suggest cedar/cypress.
The surface of this material was very good and was precisely what I needed for my project. The staff at the store cut the 4 x 8 panel for me into three pieces. The smaller pieces enabled me to handle them in my workshop.
This hardwood plywood uses a thicker veneer than most and a soy based adhesive which is non-toxic and does not emit formaldehyde. I built a what most would describe as a cabinet with sliding glass doors. I built it as an enclosure for my reptiles. My neighbors have told me that it's a beautiful piece of furniture and I attribute that to the furniture grade, high quality plywood which is non-toxic to my reptiles.
I have just tried a 1/4" hardwood plywood from Roseburg and it was horrible quality, with toxic adhesive and the very thin Birch veneer de-laminated from sanding, screwing in screws, touching and gave numerous splinters. I have to rebuild a project because of the poor quality of Roseburg. I will only buy Columbia Forest Products from now on.
I would recommend this only if you can afford a lot of scrap in building your project. Maybe if there had been more than 2 sheets in stock I would be happier. The sheet I bought had a lot of fill-ins, on both sides. I needed to complete my project, so I bought the sheet. The veneer is VERY thin so be very careful sanding!
This board fit our criteria for replacing kitchen pantry shelves with thicker, stronger board that hopefully will not warp. The color was good and got the strip that ironed on edge to give finished look.
I bought this sheet of plywood at Home Depot because Lowe's had poor reviews for their product. T...
August 11, 2017
I bought this sheet of plywood at Home Depot because Lowe's had poor reviews for their product. The Home Depot plywood looks great and I know from past purchases that it takes stain well for my cabinet projects. This particular sheet however, is not square. The short edge is off by over 1/8" over it's width. This may not be important for some projects but when you are making cabinets, 1/8" shows a unsightly gap. I can make a second cut to compensate but that is extra effort and waste.
I've been building some custom cabinets with this plywood. Like any wood you get at a big box store, you need to look it over when you get it and "dig deeper" if you find a blemished sheet. Out of the 6 sheets I got, I had to "dig down" to 8 sheets deep, aka, 2 of the top 8 pieces on top of the stack I passed on. Bring an extra person if possible, or go off hours so an employee can help you.
One side has a red tint, one side has a lack of tint.
Be on the lookout for places where the veneer has some imperfections. Again, 2 out of the 8 sheets had this and why I bypassed those.
BIG HINT: If you need super clean cut-edges and you need the store to cut the sheet for you, do ROUGH cuts (aka, at least a 1/2" wider or longer) then your final cut, and do you final cut at home. The big saw at the store probably is a low teeth blade and has been used dozens and dozens of times. Aka, you're going to get some splintering from the cut at the store. I did "rough cuts" at the store so I could fit the pieces in my SUV (24" side by 8 feet long) (aka, one rip down the middle). I needed 22 1/2" wide panels at home, and I did that at home with a new high-teeth blade on my circular saw. Even though I have a dewalt portable table saw, when doing cuts for cabinets/furniture, I like to use my Kreg KMA2675 Kreg Rip-Cut which really does a good consistent rip cut. (And is very small/cheap compared to a table saw, which is a good option for a DIYer). The new high teeth blade minimized any splintering.
So just use some common sense. Don't expect perfect cuts from the saw at the store. Use a good blade for final cuts at home. Do a few test cuts at home to see where you might have splintering issue before you "dive in".
I really like how my cabinets turned out. I created "face frames" with 1 1/2 inch side pure-oak wood. and used kreg pocket screws to join this plywood to the face frames. If this is how you are doing it, then I strong suggest getting 2 Kreg KHC-RAC hole clamps. This will allow you to clamp the plywood (at a right angle) to the face frame and really fine tune the connection. Before I used the Kreg KHC-RAC clamps, my wood would get out of alignment by 1/32 (or so) of an inch, and just made the piece not feel high quality.
I don't work for Kreg, I'm just telling you what I have found as must have tools when creating decent furniture.
2 Kreg KHC-RAC clamps.
1 Kreg KMA2675 Kreg Rip-Cut
1 Kreg K5 Pocket-Hole Jig (much better clamping system then the K4)
That would be my must have Kreg list. The hole clamps can also be used when joining the face frame. In fact, I have a Kreg KHC-PREMIUM clamp and a never use it. Just don't use the small diameter rod on the Kreg KHC-RAC (* without a washer) against your project wood. Use the flat-circle piece of the Kreg KHC-RAC against the project wood. * Another hint, get a few grade 8 washers (about 1/2" size) and use this in conjuction small diameter rod on the Kreg KHC-RAC clamp to clamp "above" the drilled out pocket holes. It's hard to describe. But if you get the 2 Kreg KHC-RAC clamps and a few grade-8 washers (for a few pennies), it'll be another clamping option when the time comes.
Another trick. Get a 16" by 24" framing square (less then $10 at Home Depot) and drill a few holes in it, and mount it to a FLAT surface near the corner with some bolts (keep the small head of the bolt on the top side). This simple trick allows me to position my pieces at 90 degrees before pocket screwing them together. I got some a melamine sheet. I mounted this to rudimentary table legs with 5" of overhang (of the melamine). This gives me a clean-flat surface to work on and I clamp from the bottom side. You can kinda see that in the pictures. Not seen (or barely seen) is the framing square I mounted to the "lower left" corner of the melamine. You can see I have the kreg aluminum straight edges (blue), but that was overkill. I find myself using the mounted framing square as my 90 degree guide most of the time.
So the kreg tools mentioned above and the frame square trick, a circular saw with a good-new-high-teeth blade, I would not hesitate to say "go for it" for making some furniture.
The first piece was something I made for the closet, and I learned a few tricks on the way, and now I'm on my way to creating something that will look great in the kitchen (aka, on full display).
I also got the columbia red oak 1 1/2" bead board to be the "centers" of my shaker style door frames (made with 2 1/2" wide oak boards).
I'm very happy with the turn out. I like that is isn't super chemical glue since its going in my kitchen and in my house.
Home Depot also has some 3/8" oak dowels, and these can be used to fill the pocket holes. Get a under-cut saw (aka, door jamb saw), and you can glue in the dowels into the pocket holes, and then cut them down to almost flat. This is a cheaper (and since its oak wood, a better match) then buying the "official" wood plugs from kreg. you-tube "homemade kreg plugs" as well.
Attached are two early pictures of my big and small cabinets. You can see the face frames and the plywood sides/tops/bottoms.
I have used this brand of plywood on several projects and never been disappointed. This sheet had no voids visible at the edges, although other sheets from the same company sometimes have had the occasional small void.
The oak veneer is flawless, at least to my eye and the whole board is sufficiently flat that there is no difficulty pulling it flat, for example if you were attaching it to sides.
The plywood was encased in 2 thinner sheets of plywood to protect it from damage on both sides; I opted to leave the pallet intact to cut the plywood down to size because it was too heavy to move by myself. There's a nice graining pattern and the plywood was smoother than expected.
So far, I used the plywood as a countertop for a vanity. It was easy to cut with my Rockwell saw and sand with my Dremel Multi-max tool. Once finished sanding, I applied Rustoluem metallic ORB oil paint to protect the surface. Next projects are to create an outdoor grill table and stain the remainder for butcher-block style bar top - there are so many uses for this plywood.
Pros: Easy to Clean, Easy to Install, Good Shape, High Quality of Material, Multi Use, Seals Well, nice graining
This was some nice looking plywood. Even though it was graded as C3, it was free of knots, voids, and surprisingly very straight and showed no warping. I covered this plywood with laminate and tile, but you could just as easily stain it as appearance grade plywood for a project.
My project required ripping the sheet down into some long 3 thin strips. I never once encountered a void even with a lot of cuts through the table saw. I also used a router on the plywood and encountered no issues. We were all extremely pleased with the quality of the plywood. I have included some pictures of the veneer and cut sides.
As an added bonus, it is formaldehyde free which is hard to find.
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