SlimLine 32 in. x 32 in. Single Threshold Shower Base in White

The floor of the pan is very sturdy. A bit of thinset or mortar (not concrete mix that has gravel) will add additional support and help hold it in place.

yes

No. There are some pans that will accept a tile layer but not this one. This is a sturdy surface but not as thick and heavy as those made for tile applications.

No. You run the risk of cracking the pan. Also, heads of screws can interfere with the edge of tile that hangs down into the pan.

NO, I did not use a vapor barrier under the mortar before I set the base. You could use10 mil plastic if you desire. I framed around the base using 2" x 6" and sealed the base flange to 10 mil plastic which I used behind the Hardy backer board with Self-Adhering Window Flashing tape. Next I set the tile leaving a 1/4" gap at the shower base. (When I set the bottom row of tile I put RTV sealant on the shower base flange as I set the tile, you can come back and install the sealant later)

It’s made from a durable fiberglass.

It is a standard size drain. You would need a drain from the plumbing section.

A shower curtain works very well, as long as you install the rod at proper height and you close the curtain to the walls. Most shower systems are low flow these days anyway.

Yes as long as the drain does not stop up.

After years of tiling, I switched to doing metal shower walls in the 3 showers in my new house. However, if you're gonna use tile, which requires a backerboard, use 1/2" on your framed walls- 1/4" isn't strong enough in my opinion to last- too much give. If your framing is on the mark, you should be able to drop the backerboard to the top lip of the shower pan, secure it to the wall with the prescribed screws (if you use drywall screws, they tend to snap off as you try to sink them into the backerboard), then your tile should slip down into the pan to give you a good drip edge. By the way, you will want to be sure to have framing in a sufficient width on the left and right sides of the shower where backerboard can be secured and the adjoining wallboard (drywall, for instance) can also be secured. Add another stud to give you ample room the secure the edge, and it's a good idea to extend that tile edge several inches away from the shower to make sure that the wall, especially at the bottom, doesn't get wet and rot the wooden baseboard and the wallboard behind it. One more thing- standard backerboard is not waterproof. It's worth the extra time and money to tape the joints and apply a sealer, such as Red Guard, to all the backerboard. Tile can crack and standard grout is not waterproof either, so eventually you will get moisture behind the tile. There are premixed grouts on the market now that are combined with a grout sealer that are worth the extra few bucks. Very important- to affix the tile in a shower, do not use mastic (a water-based glue)- use thinset (a cementious product that won't fail, typically, if it gets wet). Good luck!