35 mm 105-Degree 1/2 in. Overlay Cabinet Hinge (1-Pair)

Yes, they hold up well

These hinges have roughly a 1/4" movement from side-to-side, more than adequate for most replacements. Noted while replacing that original owner had purchased wrong hinge (1 1/4" instead of 1/2") that had placed the door off-center. The 1/2 and 1 1/4" models are intended to allow for two separate types of door configuration.

If you are referring to the screw that mounts the hinge to the faceframe, then you can you a variety of screws as long as the head is larger than the opening and the shank is smaller. I have used kreg pocket hole screws, t25 construction screws (#8x1-1/4" I think), and the provided screws. I actually prefer using the pocket hole screws because the supplied screws tend to snap on me if I use my cabinet hinge bits because the pilot hole is not large enough. The pocket hole and construction screws can take more abuse and torque and don't snap as easily. If you are asking about the other screws, then you'd need to use on of the remaining ones to determine the size. I haven't had to replace those.

You can use the dowel or you can simply pre-drill and use just the screw. It depends if your hinges come pre-drilled with larger holes or not. I've done it both ways and both ways are secure and I can't tell a difference.

13/16" or 20.5 mm

You need to drill a 1/2" deep hole for the hinge to sit in, so technically anything 9/32" and thicker would work. That being said, I don't go any thinner than 3/4" - especially if the hole you drill reaches the inside edge of the door and you end up drilling into the rabbet for the panel.

mirrorsRexpensive, Thank you for your question. We do not currently offer a restictor clip for these hinges. Best, Customer Care Team

SK, Thank you for your question on the Everbilt 35 mm 105-Degree 1/2 in. Overlay Cabinet Hinge. The center to center measurement between the mounting holes are 45 mm. Best, Customer Care Team

It's possible the adjustments on the hinge that are set differently or the hinges are actually a similar but different model. They should still work fine though. I have several types of hinges on my cabinets because I install them as I finish them, and I never seem to purchase enough hardware for a whole job. Like most projects, the little details that we fret over blend in when looking at the finished product.

I usually add a bump pad or a cork pad on the opposite side of the door so that it sits flat with these hinges. I've never had them rest closer than 1/8" from the fraceframe and when adjusting them. They do need some gap so that the door doesn't rub the faceframe with you open it. There's a good 3/16" of maneuverability in the hinge