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Brand | GE | GE | Commercial Electric |
Name | 12 in. Premium LED Direct Wire Under Cabinet Fixture | 18 in. Premium LED Direct Wire Under Cabinet Fixture | 24 in. LED White Direct Wire Under Cabinet Light |
Price | $3191 | $3991 | $4297 |
Ratings | (836) | (836) | (544) |
Power Source | Hard Wired | Hard Wired | Hard Wired |
Compatible Bulb Type | LED | LED | LED |
Product Width (in.) | 12 | 18 | 24 |
Connection Type | Hardwired | Hardwired | Hardwired |
Features | No Additional Features | Dimmable | Dimmable |
Mounting Method | Screws | Screws | Screws |
View Product | View Product | View Product |
![]() | ![]() | ![]() | |
Brand | GE | GE | Commercial Electric |
Name | 12 in. Premium LED Direct Wire Under Cabinet Fixture | 18 in. Premium LED Direct Wire Under Cabinet Fixture | 24 in. LED White Direct Wire Under Cabinet Light |
Price | $3191 | $3991 | $4297 |
Ratings | (836) | (836) | (544) |
Power Source | |||
Compatible Bulb Type | |||
Product Width (in.) | |||
Connection Type | |||
Features | |||
Mounting Method | |||
View Product | View Product | View Product |
We installed this fixture with a dimmer switch. Its does dim but when I turn off the switch, the light does not turn off. Any ideas what is causing this?
This answer is for the 18" fixture - YMMV for the other lengths. Assume the orientation of the fixture is as normally mounted under a cabinet: light strip to the front and pointing down. Given that orientation, there are 5 total round wiring knockouts, each approximately 1/2" in diameter. There is a knockout on either end, left and right, with center at 3/4" from the back side. There are 3 knockouts along the back side, with center measurements from the left side of 1 1/4", 5 1/2" and 16 3/4". I've got three of these lights and I really like them - so much better than the flourescent fixtures they replaced, and they are easy to mount and wire.
These are direct wire (i.e. Romex) and even have easy-to-connect terminals for solid-core 14 awg Romex which do not require wire nuts. Very easy to wire up.
One issue - they come with one cable connector for the incoming wire. To connect to the next fixture you need a similar connector for the outgoing wire. Problem is that it requires a 1/4 knockout. HD and no one else locally sells these. Guy at HD said just use black tape - wrong - that does not meet code and is not totally safe. Went to local electrical supply company and they had never seen one. Thought it was an obsolete item. Finally had to order 2 online. Inexpensive part but high charge for shipping.
Yes, in about 16 years you'd need to spend another $50 (by then, $100).
When I installed, I don't recall seeing a setting for preference. It is a bright white. Great for kitchen needs.
Yes, I have 3 light panels on 1 switch in my kitchen, 2 are 24” under the cabinets above my stove and 1 is 48” under the cabinet that is over a countertop.
Yes, I just bought this GE_Model # 26742 and added a pull chain light switch also bought from home depot. I used a side hole knock out but the hole was too big and the switch would slip through the hole. So I got two large metal washers and drilled out each washer's center hole to fit the pull chain switch diameter. You need one washer to fit inside and one outside the cabinet to hold the switch in place. Mounted it in the side corner knock out hole and made it a perfect fit. Does not get in the way of internal parts or wiring. Perfect. See my pictures attached.
You can not change the color but it does come in oil rubbed bronze.
The fixtures are not linkable (meaning you cannot wire them in series). Absent that hurdle, will not have any other electrical issues; but the light quality and color likely will not match between the LED and fluorescent fixtures. This will be especially noticeable if the fluorescent tubes are cool white, but it will probably still be quite evident no matter what color fluorescent tubes you use. I'd either switch everything (and be able to use the dimming function). or perhaps consider an LED strip light that can be cut to fit your desired space.