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16 oz. Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant Quick Stop Straw

  • Insulates large gaps easily
  • Dry and ready to trim in just 30 minutes
  • Designed for fast and easy application
  • See More Details

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Product Overview

GREAT STUFF Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant with Quick Stop Straw Technology offers the same benefits as GREAT STUFF Gaps and Cracks but fills gaps larger than 1 in. So it's great for creating larger weather-tight seals to stop drafts and keep critters out. Plus, like all GREAT STUFF products, it's airtight, paintable, stainable and sand-able. It's polyurethane-based and perfect for all sorts of materials like wood, drywall, metal, masonry, glass and most plastics.
  • New Quick Stop straw technology - helps stop messy foam drips
  • Forms a permanent weather-tight seal to minimize drafts and insect infestation and has exceptional adhesion to building materials
  • GREAT STUFF big gap filler insulating foam sealant with quick stop straw can be used in interior or exterior application and is tack free in 6 minutes and can be trimmed in 30 minutes
  • Foam elasticity properties allow for movement and shifting within a structure
  • Cures as cream colored, rigid foam; ease of application results from all direction dispensing
  • One 16 oz. can equals up to 24 tubes of caulk
  • Click here to learn more about Eco Options and Energy Efficiency

Info & Guides

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Specifications

Dimensions

Coverage Area (sq. ft.)
8
Product Height (in.)
9.25
Product Width (in.)
2.75

Details

Compatible Install Surface
Cement,Concrete,Existing Insulation,Fiberglass,PVC/CPVC Pipes,Wood
Cure Time (hours)
1
Dry to touch (min.)
8
Install Temperature (F)
40-100
Insulation Features
Paintable,Stainable
Insulation R-Value
R3.7
Insulation R-Value per Inch
R3.7
Insulation Type
Spray Foam Insulation
Number of Pieces
1
Product Weight (oz.)
16
Returnable
90-Day

Warranty / Certifications

Warranty Information
N/A

Questions & Answers

150Questions40Answers

how many cubic inches will one can fill?

Asked by Chadrick May 16, 2021
2
Answers

Hello Chadrick, NOTE: Big Gap Filler expands at the rate of 3x the size of the regular Great Stuff Here are the yields of 12oz cans: 12 oz. Gaps & Cracks 200-250 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 12 oz. Big Gap Filler 250-300 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 12 oz. Window & Door 270-320 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) Here are the yields of 16oz cans: 16 oz. Gaps & Cracks 265-335 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 16 oz. Big Gap Filler 335-400 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 16 oz. Window & Door 360-425 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) I would draw the assumption that other types would be similar to Gaps & Cracks (such as fire, pond, insect, etc.) as they expand like the original formula. Hope that helps, Jeff

Is is this product a urethane or a polyurethane ? Thanks

Asked by Bill May 7, 2021
4
Answers

Hello Bill, This is one-part polyurethane closed cell foam. Hope that helps, Jeff

Is this a product one that I can use a bit, put it away and use the remainder at some later date?...

Asked by TNhands March 28, 2021
7
Answers

NO WAY IN HADES exception soak straw in acetone/nail polisher remover store in living space conditions out of sun use within a WEEK

How many linear feet approimately at a normal discrarge rate?

Asked by Rabbi February 5, 2021
3
Answers

Hello Rabbi, Our Big Gap Filler expands at the rate of 3x the size of the regular Great Stuff™. Here are the yields of the products: 12 oz. Gaps & Cracks 200-250 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 12 oz. Big Gap Filler 250-300 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 12 oz. Window & Door 270-320 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 16 oz. Gaps & Cracks 265-335 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 16 oz. Big Gap Filler 335-400 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) 16 oz. Window & Door 360-425 lineal feet (3/8" diameter) NOTE: Big Gap expands 3x of original. Other types will be similar to original (fire,pond, etc.) Hope that helps, Jeff

Is this removable? I am a short term renter so would need to remove the foam sealant in a few mon...

Asked by Kay January 11, 2021
5
Answers

No

I have a metal garage. I’d like to seal the seams. Would this suffice to weatherproof it on top o...

Asked by Sarra December 29, 2020
4
Answers

did the job I wanted. thought it would expand more than it did

I would like to use this form to put artificial flowers in a pot outside that will hold up to the...

Asked by Janice December 3, 2020
5
Answers

Yes but an expensive way to go about it

Is this product useful for cantilevered spaces insulation? I have a small area of one room that ...

Asked by AdrianM November 18, 2020
3
Answers

Hello AdrianM, Actually, I have the exact situation you have. I have two bay windows so in my basement, there were two areas of cantilevered spaces. The floor joists were on 16" centers (like yours) but I have 2x10 joists (not 2x8's like yours). Mine were about 2' deep as well. First, let's discuss cantenlivers. Most houses and climes would treat this as a space that does not need a vapor barrier. Floors are under negative pressure as warm air rises and leaks out of the top of a house which in turns pulls air in from the bottom of your house (unless your house is uber tight - which from your description is not). Therefore, warm moist air inside does not tend to push into floor areas. Before insulating, take the time inside and outside to caulk and air seal all the bays - all sides, all corners, etc. with a good quality chalk. I have a tough time reaching the very rear and used a flexible stick to get to the far reaches as the chalk gun would not fit/reach all places. Check the board outside. Sometimes they use 1/4" plywood or something even worse. If so, consider skinning over with something better and seal the outside seams as well. How much insulation do you need? You have outside air under your cantilever outdoors and you have a conditioned space above. What do you need to fill that space? Depending what climate zone you are in, you need to insulate up to a particular R-value. For hot-humid or hot-dry, you need R13 (3-1/2" of fiberglass), for mixed humid or mixed dry: R19 (5-1/2" of fiberglass). All others (marine, cold, very cold or subarctic) you need R30 (9-1/2" of fiberglass). I live in marine climate zone so I needed to fill the 2x10 joist completely with fiberglass to achieve R30. If you live in such a zone, then you would need to either use mineral wool batts OR rigid or spray foam to the top of the bay, and fiberglass to the rest equalling R30 since fiberglass alone in a 2x8 bay would not achieve R30 (only R24). However, you were asking about big gap filler. Would it work - yes. However, it would be DIFFICULT to install and fill all gaps. Firstly, the spray cans mix and shoot our a straw under low pressure and will fall or roll down the top or sides, then expand. And this is with you reaching into the bay with limited space or control. It is slow to expand as well. This means you can only do a bit, wait for it to expand and come back and do another layer. If you do it too soon, you will have a mess. If you wait too long, the can may not work. And don't touch it as it is super sticky. In the limited space, you will get this all over you. I would say that this would be a poor way to go. I know - I have tried this before. If you want spray foam, then you would need a spray insulation kit (HD has these). These are true two-part mixing cans under pressure that yields 200 board feet of foam to a certain depth. You could easily fill the entire bay with just 2 or 3 passes in seconds. But this is costly. You would place the wand to the back, press the trigger and withdraw which would uniformly spray and stick to the top of the bay and expand instantly downward. Rigid foam (like the Polyisocyanurate or pink foam boards which HD sells) can be cut to fit. Place on the top of the bay and "glue" in place with spray foam or liquid nails. Fill the remainder with fiberglass or wool. The boards state how much R-value they have per inch so it would be easy to deduce how much foam versus the remaining space filled with fiberglass you would need to equal the desired R-value. Note: fiberglass is hard to get right. You have to cut it accurately (slightly larger than the space and finesse it into the space to fill all voids. Fiberglass is susceptible to water, mold and critters. However, mineral wool has a higher R-value, easier to cut to shape (serrated bread knife), soft enough to squeeze into a bay, is fireproof, critter and mold proof and isn't ruined if it gets wet. If I was building a house today, I would use mineral wool everywhere - no fiberglass at all. It is even a great sound barrier. This is also sold at HD. The spray foam has its uses - small gaps I use chalk, bigger gaps, standard can Great Stuff foam, voids - Big Gap Filler, but for large spaces, I would use insulation or spray kit. Spray kits air seal so you don't have to chalk and such first. However, all other insulation, air seal every nook and cranny first! Hope that helps, Jeff in Seattle

I’m thinking of using this foam for postive floatation in a boat. Does anyone know if the foam is closed cell or open cell? Will it work for flotation

Asked by BoatBuilder November 9, 2020
4
Answers

Closed

I have a basement with cement walls, it has safe room under front cement porch has gap where beam...

Asked by Mike November 1, 2020
3
Answers

Typical drainage solution SOP re: The Money Pit radio show First create positive drainage AWAY from basement at grade level, no less than 6" down in 10ft run + leaders (gutter drain pipes, if any) must have extensions that also pour the floods away 6-10ft away from basement Then it might be possible to use this cheap OPEN cell foam instead of proper CLOSED cell foam (ala professional installation) that will in time sponge up water and deteriorate. Perhaps by them your drainage solution outside is working well enough.

16 oz. Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant Quick Stop Straw - page 2

Customer Reviews

  • 4.3
    out of 1,239 reviews
  • 83% recommend this product
Filter by:
Showing 1-10 of 1,239 reviews
I had to cut out some PVC for our tankless...
I had to cut out some PVC for our tankless water heater and there was a substantial gap. This can filled in the gap and insulated everything behind the pipes couldn't be happier.
by HomeDepotCustomer
works but please wear gloves
unless you plan on throwing your whole hands away, I do not suggest getting it on them. wear gloves. it has been day 2 and I'm still dealing with this stuff not coming off my hands. I should have read instructions and reviews. In addition, you better use all at once. Will definitely dry out.
by hands
Response from GREAT STUFF & DuPontApr 16, 2021
Hello, hands - Thanks for sharing your comments about Great Stuff™ Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant. Yes, the directions do recommend that all skin be covered, as well as eye protection. This foam is designed to be permanent, and if it gets onto your skin and cures, you will need to allow a few days for it to wear off. Acetone will remove uncured foam, but there is no solvent that will remove cured foam. If you have some on your skin, you can use a pumice stone to gently remove the foam, but be sure to keep your skin well lubricated with petroleum jelly or other moisturizing lotion.
2 people found this helpful
Filled up my old 1928 fireplace that was letting bugs...
Filled up my old 1928 fireplace that was letting bugs and cold air into my living room. It didn't have a typical flu and I wouldn't want to burn any wood in it. Once we fill the hole in we spray painted it all black inside so now in the winter and Summers I'll be comfortable
by JANIECE
Response from GREAT STUFF & DuPontSep 1, 2020
Hi, Jrb! Thanks for your great review about Great Stuff™ Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant. Even though your comment indicates that you are not planning to burn any wood in the fireplace, it is important for you to know that this product is combustible and cannot be exposed to temperatures above 240F as it will present a fire hazard.
2 people found this helpful
purchase Exterior door exterior door Home Depot and I use...
purchase Exterior door exterior door Home Depot and I use great stuff for installation
by Mi
Works well. Fills and seals gaps...
Works well. Fills and seals gaps
by Eddie
Worked great filling the hole...
Worked great filling the hole
by HomeDepotCustomer
GREAT ATTIC STUFF!!
Great Product. Need to rotate stock better. Great Stuff!!
by PattonContractors
1 person found this helpful
This 16 oz. Big Gap Filler is really doing a great job. It extends and close the gaps quickly. It...
This 16 oz. Big Gap Filler is really doing a great job. It extends and close the gaps quickly. It is extending and drying really well. I was able to cut the excess foam with a knife. WARNING: Do not touch this stuff with your bare hand it will stick and you gonna have difficult time to remove.
by SmartShopper
27 people found this helpful
Great Stuff insulating foam has the most reliable and consistent formulas compared to other brand...
Great Stuff insulating foam has the most reliable and consistent formulas compared to other brands I have tried. Further, they have a foam for just about every situation. The original standard foam "Gaps and Cracks" is probably going to be your number one use type. However, there are times when you have large voids with lengthy areas to bridge. Enter "Big Gap Filler". This expands nearly 5 times the size of the normal foam. I recently bought three varieties of Great Stuff for my Pond Project: Great Stuff Big Gap Filler, Original Gaps and Cracks and Great Stuff Pond and Stone Foam. I was creating a new waterfall. After weeks of arranging rocks up the waterfall course, once satisfied on how the water was flowing, I turned off the waterfall, let the rocks dry then began foaming beginning with big gap filler. I filled the large voids behind the rocks. This would keep the majority of the water from flowing behind the rocks. Next I used the standard foam between the rocks and to "cement" the smaller rocks into place or secure the rocks to the liner. Lastly, I used the pond form over all the other foams and placed it in places I had to disguise liner. I pressed sand into the fresh foam as well. I also used this between my flagstones around the pond, using standard foam and big gap underneath the flagstones to cement them in place on the liner OR close up gaps so that water could not travel beneath them. But this is not all, HD also sells other varieties too. They have a window and door foam which stays soft after it cures. This is important to keep the weight of the house above from pushing into your window or door jambs. They also have fire block foam. This is great where you have penetrations in firewalls (like the wall between your house and garage for instance). They also have foam that is critter resistant to keep bugs or other pest from penetrating openings called Pest Block. This is great around things like spigots on your house that bugs might try to pass from the exterior to the inside of your home. Lastly they have a Multi-Purpose Black foam for indoor or outdoor use good around hardscapes and such (use pond and stone for water features or very wet areas though). With ALL of these foam types, there is major things to remember. Where eye, glove and clothes protection and protect the areas around where you are spraying. The foam is SUPER STICKY and will not easily come off of ANYTHING! Acetone works a LITTLE (and I mean not much at all - but it is better than nothing). If foam drips down while you are spraying - LEAVE IT until it cures. You will make it worse by touching it while wet and easier to remove when cured. Notate all the places you need to foam before you start foaming and prepare ALL the areas before you begin!!!! This is important as once you start, you want to continue until the can is empty. They do have the new nozzles that let you turn off and on the foam from leaking out the straw in between spraying two or more areas, but remember, this tends to be difficult. If you are trying to reach into long spaces, suggest you find some long straws or tubing that you can fix to the straw BEFORE BEGINNING. Do deep filling places FIRST. Save easy surface gaps for the end of the can. This is because the flow is much bigger in the beginning and gets less and less over the life of the can. Lastly, if you have left overs, you can close the straw and hope for the best. The can even states, expect only one use. I have cut off the end of the straw and have got to use the rest of the can, but for the most part, it's a one use can. Jeff
by Jeff
Response from DowGreatStuffSep 3, 2019
Hello Jeff, Thank you very much for your fantastic review. We appreciate your time and effort.
23 people found this helpful
easy to install, dries quickly, very sticky, used with R13 fiberglass batts
easy to install, dries quickly, very sticky, used with R13 fiberglass batts
by CJ
2 people found this helpful
Showing 1-10 of 1,239 reviews