Excessive application around the door frame will greatly expand and will definitely do some bow bending. So therefore, limit and slowly apply very little foam.
Got the job done.
You can use Great stuff fire to seal the gap between the housing and the Sheetrock.
Dear Madness: Please be aware that the "Fireblock" version of Great Stuff is just as flammable as all of the other versions of Great Stuff. The cured foam will ignite at just 240 degrees F -- which is much lower than the ignition temp for paper or wood. This is also true for other canned spray foams with "Fireblock" on the label, e.g. 3M. If you use this foam to seal penetrations in framing, e.g. around holes drilled for pipes or electric lines, it will catch fire before the wood does. In short, it will promote fire. This type of foam is banned for fire blocking in commercial buildings, and is only permitted in residential buildings due to a 'gap' in the building code. If the local inspector approves, it is "OK". If the inspector is aware of the problems, you could spend costly hours digging out foam and replacing it with real fire resistant sealant. Much better to start with the right stuff. We recently finished a job and when the inspector walked though he just smiled, "You avoided a common problem!" Use real fire resistant sealant for fire blocking, e.g. 3M Model # CP25WB+10, Home Depot Internet #100166701,UPC Code # 051115116384, Store SKU #163096 If the gap is too big for sealant alone, pack it with rock wool, then cover it with the 3M sealant. I hope this is helpful. Mark
Dear Vas: DO NOT use Great Stuff spray foam, despite "Fireblock" on the label. These canned spray foam products are very flammable. The cured foam will ignite at just 240 degrees F - which is signifcantly lower than the ignition temp of paper or wood. This means the the foam will ignite first and promote combustion. The hole that heating pipes pass through are typically penetrations that must be "fireblocked". The best solution is fire resistant caulk, which is easy to apply. See: 3M CP 25WB, Home Depot Internet #100166701, UPC Code # 051115116384, Store SKU #163096 You will need a cheap caulk gun to apply it; Home Depot sells them for $4. If the gap is larger than ~1/4", pack it first with rock wool or steel wool, pushed a bit below the surface. Then cover the wool with 3M sealant. Steel wool will also keep mice from chewing through the hole. I hope this is helpful. Mark
It worked great for what I needed. I am redoing my chimney and used it to cover some open spots. Dried fast and cleaned off what I didn't need. Would suggest it to anyone.
Dear GB: Without a photo of the pipes in your apartment, it is difficult to offer a solution. Please post another question with a photo of the pipes. For now, if the plaster dust accumulates only under the holes where the pipes enter the ceiling, sealing the gap around this hole should be helpful. Great Stuff is not the solution, however. It expands aggressively, sticks to everything and cannot be removed with any standard solvent. Depending on the width of the gap, DAP 230 sealant would be best. This water-based sealant is easy to apply with a cheap caulk 'gun', and easy to clean up. It is available in white, which will probably match the color of your ceiling. If the gap around the pipes is larger than ~1/4", pack the space first with steel wool - pushed in so that you can cover it with DAP 230. All of these products are carried by Home Depot, and are not expensive or difficult to use. If you have never used a caulk gun, they are very simple. Look up "How to use a cuilk gun" on the web. They include a trimmer to cut the top off the DAP 230 tube, and a fold-out wire to poke in the seal inside. Wipe the wire clean with a paper towel before you move it back in place -- or it will be glued in place by the sealant. A photo of a caulk gun is attached below; they cost $4. I hope this is helpful. Mark
I think that you will need to replace the stove. The heating will cause the odor and it will not stop until it is completely burned away. Good luck with that.
Yes. Tighter the box, the better.
Great question. This would make the door a little more fire resistive than what it currently is now. But as an architect, I can tell you that there is much more that goes into it than filling the door with foam. This jury-rigged door would resist fire slightly longer than the existing hollow core door, but would melt and burn through. I would rather suggest that you buy yourself a sold core door, quality door hardware, quality fire door seals, and a closer. That would give yourself some quality fire protection.