|Coverage Area (sq. ft.)||5||Product Height (in.)||9.25 in|
|Product Width (in.)||2.75 in|
|Compatible Install Surface||Cement, Concrete, PVC/CPVC Pipes, Plywood, Wood||Cure Time (hours)||1|
|Dry to Touch (min.)||8||Install Temperature (F)||40-100|
|Insulation Features||Paintable, Stainable||Insulation R-Value||R3.7|
|Insulation R-Value per Inch||R3.7||Insulation Type||Spray Can|
|Number of Pieces||1||Product Weight (oz.)||16 oz|
A: This product is not going to address the issue of your shower base shifting.
A: No. It is not structural. It is designed to fill voids to prevent air flow, that's it.
A: No, this is not glue or a structural adhesive. It is for stopping drafts in window and door frames.
A: I wouldn’t use it for that, this foam is mainly for insulation purposes around a new window to keep the cold air out, I don’t think it would bear weight very well
A: Hi Pete, we would advise against that application. GREAT STUFF™ is water resistant not water proof and it has not been rated to support weight.
A: It shouldn’t cause a problem. The activator evaporates fairly quickly and shouldn’t soften the polyethylene tank. Just make sure that you don’t put it on too thick as it will not dry in the center. This was only meant to be about 1 to 2 inches thick at the most.
A: While GREAT STUFF(TM) has some known compatibility issues with polyethylene plastics, it is mainly restricted to a question of adhesion. If the GREAT STUFF(TM) foam is fully cured, contact between the two materials should not have any other adverse effects.
A: This does not work as well on colder weather. It work but you will lose volume. Warm up the can, not over heater or burner as that would be very dangerous, but let it gradually warm up to a comfortable room temperature (68ºF/20ºC) to get the most bang for the buck. If the material you are spraying it on is cold the foam may pull away as it cures which means that there will be air cracks and reduced efficacy of the foam. Best to wait till warm weather to spray it on or at the very least warm up the structure and spray as much as you can all at once. After curing examine the seals to see if they are secure to the material. A big no no is any moisture on the material. This will cut down on sealing potential and waste your time and money. I have used this stuff in -40ºF but I warmed up the substrate first and it worked just fine. In fact my wife was complaining about how well it was stuck the other day as we trimmed it back to make room for the drywall.
A: Dear Virgil: Three key points: As DOW / Great Stuff notes in their product literarure, do not apply it in temps below 40 degrees F. Cure performance also drops steadily with the temperature, because Great Stuff is a one-component foam that cures by pulling moisture out of the air. The best sealant we have found for use in cold temps is DAP 3.0. See: DAP Model # 18360, Home Depot Internet #202337656 Store SKU #782625 This is good down to about 20 degrees F. Second, all versions of Great Stuff spray foam are very flammable, before and after the foam cures -- including the "Fire Block" version. The cured foam will ignite at just 240 degrees F, which is significantly lower than the ignition temp for wood studs. So never install Great Stuff near any source of heat. Third, the 'Window and Door' version is ideal to air seal and insulate door and window framing, gaps between and around foam board, etc. This version remains flexible after it cures, to avoid cracks as things expand and contract. I hope this is helpful. Mark
A: The contents of GREAT STUFF™ should be as close to room temperature as possible when dispensed. When using GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door, apply when temperatures are between 40° -100°F (4°- 38°C.). When applying the foam in cool temperatures, misting the foam with water from a spray bottle may help the foam to expand and cure better.
A: Based on the information you have provided, it is difficult to determine whether GREAT STUFF(TM) Window & Door will work in this application. Please call us at 1-866-583-2583 and select prompt 8 to discuss your application and receive our best recommendation.
A: Yes you can, but it won't give you the support provided by the old sill plate. I would remove the sill, put in a new wood plate and then reinstall the sill.
A: Well, technically you can do anything you want. Would I recommend doing that? No. The wood create structure for the window to stay in the wall. You need to remove the wood completely and put in a new piece, preferably pressure-treated since it's clear you have a leak somewhere that has caused the wood to rot. I would try to find out where the water is coming in. This product will not give any structure to hold in the window.