1-1/8 in. x 4-1/2 in. x 96 in. Oak Chicago Bar Rail Moulding

On mine bottom notch fit 1/2 in ply

A less expensive alternative to buying an expensive pre-moulded radius is to remove the 90-degree corner of your bar top underlayment by cutting back 2-3" from the corner in each direction and inserting a mitred piece of rail moulding (like a wedge). Since this mitred wedge would be cut from the same length of rail moulding that's used on the rest of the bar, the contours will match perfectly. It would also eliminate the sharp 90-degree point at the outside corner of the bar (a safety concern), which would make for a safer corner transition. It might not have as much "oh wow" appeal as a pre-moulded radius but it also wouldn't be $250!

Hi John, thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately an 8' piece would not be long enough if you have to miter the ends. Even if you didn't have to miter the ends you would want to get another piece so you can cut returns to finish the ends. Your best bet is to either make the bar a little shorter, OR you can buy two pieces and miter them together. Good luck!

Yes - I used 3/4" plywood undersiding and it worked out fine.

Glue it and screw it. Screw from the bar side into the rail.

my pieces came with a diagram showing what size to use for the countertops. I used regular plywood for the bottom layer and Oak for the top. The rails are awesome and exactly what I wanted.

Glue may hold if its just for show. If a bunch of fat guys will be leaning on it it needs to be glued and screwed. Drill carefully using a stop collar, you don't want the holes in the bar. Instructions are online. See the manufacturers website.

Hi Ally, thank you for your inquiry. The thickness of the lowest gap is 1/2" and the higher gap is 3/4" thick. This means you need another plywood that's 1/4" thick, we hope this helps.

Yes

Yes, as long as final measurement is 3/4 it will work fine,