Cabinet Coat 1 gal. Kit Includes White Trim and Cabinet Enamel with Applicators Sandpaper and Tack Cloth

A:  Yes, this will work with particle board cabinets.

A:  I used it on my particle board cabinets that had a veneer layer on them. I was very pleased with the overall results... UNTIL the first time I washed them with spray bleach cleaner and it ate spots of the paint away from the veneer. I'm not sure if this is because of a lack of adhesion... a problem with my specific application... or just the paint itself. Other than using bleach cleaner (which I no longer do), the paint still looks good elsewhere. I know that doesn't help much, but hopefully there are others who have either had this same problem or no sign of it that will post as well.

A:  The same thing happened to me. I would sand (lightly) and then repaint. I bought a water based clear coat that wouldn't yellow and applied that to the cabinets. I believe it was Varathane Clear Water Based Interior Polyurethane.

A:  The Cabinet Coat installation guide says "Although Cabinet Coat is formulated to be applied to hard to coat surfaces without the need for sanding, it is recommended that proper surface preparation still be completed to enhance adhesion properties. Surfaces such as Melamine Laminate, Formica®, ceramic tile and glossy painted surfaces should be properly deglossed. All glossy surface areas should be lightly sanded to effectively dull any existing sheen and create a more suitable surface for painting." So it seems that you do not have to remove the previous polyurethane and paint entirely, but you do need to sand it.

A:  You will have to sand down the polyurethane as the new paint won’t adhere to it.

A:  Yes, you need to sand it off. The finish will not keep the paint well.

A:  Yur mobile home cabinets are probably either MDF particle board covered with MAC-TAC (like wallpaper/shelf liner) or compressed paper cabinets. If they are MDF particle board covered with MAC-TAC, you can sand the edges and then use an all in one latex primer/paint (not Cabinet Coat) and it will be OK. Just be sure to either remove loose and peeling MAC-TAC. However, if your cabinets are compressed paper, then I would not paint them at all. If you do paint them, they will swell up and you will have very ugly cabinets.

A:  I can’t tell how this product would work on a specific surface. I was very satisfied with it on the surface on which I applied it. It gave me a smooth, professional finish on properly prepared oak cabinets. I did a lot of sanding and put on a coat of primer, even though Cabinet Coat was advertised as self-priming, then applied 2 coats of the paint. Also, Home Depot tinted the paint to a creamy color for me. Beautiful results.

A:  I dont this is worth the money and no it won't stick to that. Take the doors off. Clean them really well. And rinse really well. Then I'd get spray paint for plastic. Spray them lightly. Let dry repeat. Until its coated. You then need to paint the front of the cabinets with a similar paint that's for plastic. Roll it on. Make sure everything is clean, rinsed, and free of dust. I still dont guarentee it ont chip. Several decades ago I used contact paper and wall paper. Which worked really well on those cheap finished cabinets. Hope this helps. Go talk to someone at Sherwin Williams Paint store or any paint specialty store.

A:  Yes I had light oak stain and had to. Says the cabinet paint acts as a primer but it wasn’t enough. I sanded the cabinets to take off the shine first then used kilz. Wait a day after and see if any old stain or oily bled through. May need two coats of Kilz. Then I used I think it was three coats of cabinet paint. Two for sure but I think it was 3. I didn’t want any grain to show.

A:  Don't buy this. The paint doesn't leave an even shine. Look up reviews and buy a better paint for $57.

A:  Yes

A:  I'm not really sure, but I didn't use any type of primer and it covered mine in two coats. I didn't even sand mine! But they were medium brown in color, not dark.