A: No, this can't be used for potable water.
A: This confuses a lot of people understandably. So let me try to add some clarity. This float switch will handle 115 or 230 volts up to a max of 13 amps. However it comes with a 120 volt only "piggy back end" so in a 120 volt application you would plug the float switch into the outlet and then plug the pump in to that. So when the float switch rises it will allow current to go to the pump. Meaning the end of the float is Male by Female. If this float is going to be used in a 230 Volt application you would cut the male by female end off. As there is no such thing as a 230 volt piggy back plug. At that voltage everything would be hard wired. And typically there would be a panel controlling the pumps. When I have laid out these systems in 230 Volt I have done it as follows. The panel receives a 230 v feed and a separate 120 v feed. The 230 supplies the pumps and the 120 supplies the panel. By having two power supplies the panel, alarm still run when the pump burns out. In duel pump systems it is also a best practice to give each pump its own power supply. That way the other pump will still work when one burns out.
A: The cord is 15' long
A: Increasing the the distance from the switch to the clamp increases the depth when it switches on and off It will run a little longer but wont run as often (cycle)