A: Mine measures about 4-1/2"L x 1-5/8"W x 1-1/4" H. The steel guide bushing holes extend about 11/16" into the 1-1/4" height with space below for chip clearance. 7.85, etc. might be for the packaged item.
A: Yes, the DrillBlock can be used for this application.
A: Yes, go to Milescraft.com and look under drill blocks, SKU 1364
A: This is the imperial version. Milescraft also offers model #1362 which is the metric version.
A: If you're asking if this would help you drill into the end (face), of a dowel rod and drill the hole axially (not transversely), I doubt it. There just isn't enough surface area to steady the tool. The face of the rod would also have to be perfectly perpendicular (square), to the rod, you'd need to use the tool oriented backwards so you have the flat face against the rod face. Otherwise the "V" groove on back side of tool would not make for a good rest. You would also want to drill the smallest hole to maximize the small surface area...then you might have the grain of the wood (if you're drilling wood), steer the bit...
A: If the dowel is laying horizontal, but not if the dowel is standing perpendicular. The drillblock is made to fit tightly against round objects due to the groove in the bottom of the drillblock.
A: It may work however it will difficult to line up and get the hold centered. It will also be difficult to hold steady on the end of the rod. A suggestion, using a spade or forstner bit drill a 3/4" hole half way through 3/4" or 1-1/2" board, then drill the diameter hole you need through the rest of the board. Place the dowel in the hole and drill the hole you need in the dowel.
A: Probably, if you had someone else to hold it steady on the dowel end while you drilled.
A: No. This tool is designed more for a larger flat surface that gives the tool stability. The end of a dowel doesn't have enough flat surface. Also, there would be no way to accurately center the tool over the end of a dowel. It does however have a groove that makes it possible to accurately drill a hole through the SIDE of a dowel.
A: No, 3/4” is not enough surface area to support the tool properly.
A: This is not a good tool to drill the end of a dowel. It has a V notch for drilling on the rods diameter. You could make a simple jig by drilling a 3/4” hole in a block with a spade or forstner bit until the center just breaks through. Then put it over the end of the dowel and drill the hole.
A: This could work, you would need to devise a way to clamp or accurately secure the rod.